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MINNESOTA
HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

VOLUME XI.

t -sJ^^>> 1,, '°#^/'

CHART OF

ITASCA MOUNDS

/j|f Clearwater Co., Minnesota

Br
tJVBronrer

(903.

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Village Site. JSiils

Trails^

Cache Pits ooooo

Scale mfe&t

ITASCA STATE PARK

AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY

J. V. B ROW E R,

Author of Volume VII., Minnesota Historical
Collections, 1893, Etc.

ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA,
1904.

McGILL -WARNER COMPANY, Printers,

ART ENGRAVING COMPANY, Engravers.

SHOE AND MORRISSEY, Compositors.

SAINT PAUL, MINNESOTA.

DETAILED HYDROGRAPHIC AND TOPOGRAPHIC CHART

OS* TEES

ITASCA STATE PARK

AT THE SOURCE OP

THE MISSISSIPPI EIVER

STATE OF MINNESOTA

tj. a a.

Prsparso umosr Authority of* Ai* Aot of- the Leoislature, Approved April 20th, 1891

BY J. V. BROWER, COMMISSIONER

1892

Physical Characteristics.— Extensive heights of land forming a basin, the distinct curvature pjjj^i^ ,^*t i •£.
with numerous lakes, streams and springs. The principal forests are of white, red, yellow and Banks Ife^ffi^f^ */%
growth of diamond willow. The soil is a general substratum of sand and gravel, filled with large and '" ^^ ** "''

pine forests. The surface is particularly rough and broken, with a predominating appearance charac-
t he forests, moose, bear, deer, fox, porcupine, otter, mink, pheasants, etc., abound. The nearest

of which can be best observed from Rhodes Hill or Aiton Heights. Dense forests abound, into
pine; cedar, balsam fir, tamarack, spruce, maple, asb, dm, basswood, aspen and oak, with an unlimited
I I small boulders, covered with only a slight mould formation, such as usually characterizes a region of
«JW teristic of a picturesque wilderness. The waters are stocked with northern varieties of fish; and in
accessible points to the Park can be reached by the Northern Pacific or Great Northern railroad.

Explanatory. The 1892 Itasca State Park chart is out of print. The two additions to the park (acts of 1901
and 1903) have never been shown on any published map. To supply a demand for charts the foregoing reproduced chart
of 1893, reduced to a scale slightly exceeding one and one-half inches to each mile, has been prepared, supplemented by
annotations in color, indicating the two additions, Itasca townsite laid out by Theodore Wegmann, the logging dam
which has caused Itasca Lake to be flooded before the land was condemned, the ancient mounds and village site, the
State Park House, platforms of the Mississippi River Commission survey and triangulation, new Park House site, posts
supplying landmarks, guideboard, and the Lind Saddle Trail. New names have been added to various undesignated
places, lakes, etc., which did not appear on the original chart. Danger Lake has been changed to Deming Lake in honor
of Honorable P. C. Deming in recognition of valuable services to Itasca Park interests. The park wagon road and mail
route extends northward through the three-mile strip to the East Arm of Itasca Lake, and thence to the State Park
House and Itasca village and postofflce.

On this chart Beltrami County has been changed by legal proceedings to Clearwater County.

Copies of this chart can be had by enclosing postage addressed to the undersigned at St. Paul, Minnesota.

J. V. BROWER.

GOVERNOR'S MESSAGE, JANUARY 9, 1895.

[extract.]

ITASCA STATE PARK.

From the report of the Commissioner of Itasca State Park,
made on the first day of last December, it appears that the
state has acquired the ownership and control of 10,879 acres
within the limits of the park, and that there are still within
these limits 8,823 acres, owned by private parties and scattered
in tracts of various sizes among the state lands, that ought to
be acquired by the state. These lands are covered with a valuable
forest of pine, spruce, fir, cedar, ash and oak, and the owners
are likely at an early day to cut and market this timber. When
these lands have been stripped of their timber they are the easy
prey of forest £res, and a fire breaking out upon them will
inevitably spread to the other lands of the park, and thus the
whole area will become a burnt, black and desert waste, and
will cease to afford any safeguard or protection to the source
of our mighty river.

The legislature of 1891 acted wisely and with rare good
judgment when it established this park. Itasca Lake and its
preservation is sacred and dear to every American heart. The
lake and all its beautiful environment should, as far as possible,
be kept intact in its primitive and normal condition ; and in
order to accomplish this, the lands in private ownership should,
as speedily as possible, be acquired by the state. These lands
can be obtained neither by purchase nor by condemnation pro-
ceedings until the necessary funds are provided for that purpose.
The work planned by the legislature of 1891 should be consum-
mated and completed by the legislature of 1895. I commend
this subject to your favorable consideration, and recommend
that you appropriate sufficient funds to acquire these lands by

purchase or condemnation.

— KNtJTE NELSON,

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of CaptftiB M««n M.Patrick,

, M.Patrick, Corp.
and CapWia OP

AtTTHOBlTlt
en, Pr«tM L«*el*. Topogr«phle»l 0*14 work and
Hydfopraptalc*! ftsld work were don* »nd«i the direction of Capttfn Maton M
Patrick, Corps of Engineer*, rj.9 A., Sea -- - — ~ ■--

Tfce mappikg «u dome under the direct!*
ot KngiDoera, O.S.A., Secretary Mieeiaetppi
Howell, Corpe of Engineers. USA. 8eum»ry Miaeieeippl lfc*er CoramlMion.

latitude, and Lonfitudtt. are derived geodetically from the Cairo A«ro« _
teal Station determined in 1818 by Captain H.M Adam«,Corpa of Enatneera, TJ.RA,
and Firet Lieutenant D.W.l-ocltwood. Oorpa of Engineer*, «.8.«

Secondary Trianfulatwn. in 1900, Aaaiatant Engineer 4..T Morrow, Chief
of Party _, _

Freeh, Lemtt. i» 1»00. by W.9 William, and RUHarnjao.

Topography amd Bydrograpkrj, In April-Septembei iSW. Aaataiam Engineer
A T Morrow and Assistant Engineer W.e. Comber. Chief* of Party.

Ordinary levels, l>y W O.Ootnber, O.H. French, FASnyderand W.H Morgan.

Topography, by W G Combtr, O.HFrcnch and P.O. Ray

Hydrography, by W.G.Cotnbet

Office Seduction, under the dire
A.T.Morrow. WO Comber. O.H.rmK
Oeo.U.Wolbreeht

Drawing, tinder the direction of C.W Clark, Awistant Engineer; by K.A.Wtden
and E.A.H. dAiUy

jrorss.

feet about the Memphie datum plane tMck b X90M

&. Engineer* gauge at Memphit " — — J *

'matelg SIS feet below mean Gulf level at Biloxi, Mite.

The contour One* are five feet apart The elevation* of the eontaurt about
the Mtmphi* datum'are indieated hu figure* uihieh read faetng the higher tide
of the lineste tkow the direction ofthm elope*.

The benchmark* are fiat tile*, IS ineke* *auare, *e* about S foot below the
aurfaee of the ground and Burmmmted bv t inch irenr
number* following the name* of benchmark* are the e&

""The there line is not rednted td the etag* of the Hounding*, but i* platted a,

turreyed. Bate* indicate the dajf* on l -' --*-

Sounding* are expretted in feet, w
a* mea»ur*d, .».,,_. * _.

The tUfFerenee of eleiaMon oetu-em lout and *tf* mag* f voter n
• J--X-., |J f„ t .

re meatured at low etag* and art platted

SURVEY OF

THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEK

I* under the direction of tha

MISSISSIPPI RIVER COMMISSION

LAKE ITASCA BASIN

4UUUS aiEN fcCO WOTO uth,.

NUMBER.

2J3

A FIRST EDITION CONTAINING ONE THOUSAND, ONE HUNDRED
AND TWENTY-FIVE PRINTED VOLUMES.

Veritas - Caput.

BOUTWELL, 1S:J2.

ITASCA.

SCHOOLCRAFT, 18:52.

ADDRESS.

The Council of the Minnesota Historical Society.

Gentlemen: In January, 1893, Volume VII., Minnesota His-
torical Collections, treating exhaustively of the discovery of Itasca
Basin and its earlier history as an established state park, was
delivered to this society and published.

Since that date many important changes have taken place at
Itasca Lake, additional surveys have been completed, two addi-
tions extending the boundary of Itasca State Park have been
confirmed and adopted, new names have been added to its nomen-
clature, needed changes in highways have occurred, state buildings
have been erected, and various interests of the state have received
consideration which has greatly influenced official action relating
to the destiny of the park, and its stability.

An archyeologic discovery of much interest and some import-
ance was made at Itasca Lake in 1894, and numerous objects of
moulded clay, grooved implements and chipped flints were carefully
collected and preserved for the museum of this society, constituting
the only considerable accumulation of such objects from the Source
of the Mississippi extant.

The legislature of the state, prompted by the indefatigable
labors of influential and public spirited members, has from time
to time provided large appropriations for the perfection, welfare
and advancement of the park and the comfort and accommoda-
tion of its patrons.

Those appropriations have been quite largely and variously
expended.

A new state building has been ordered to be constructed at a
beautifully forested area of the park at Mary Creek, near the
southeastern extremity of Itasca Lake, for the accommodation of

the park commissioner and visiting tourists, pursuant to the terms
of an enactment passed by the legislature in 1903.

The United States by its Mississippi River Commission have
caused to be expended in an exhaustive trigonometrical survey of
Itasca Basin, in 1900, many thousands of dollars. The official
chart of that survey indicates a distint confirmation of topographic
and hydrographic conditions reported to this society in 1890, as
charted in 1892, notwithstanding the fact that no credit whatever
for the promiscuous and extensive use of the records and field
notes provided by this society has in any manner been acknowl-
edged by the authorities of that commission. The field parties of
the Mississippi River Commission while conducting their surveys at
Itasca State Park were in constant use of specially mounted park
charts of this society, by which they were guided through the
labyrinths of densely forested areas approximately identical in
details on the charts of the two separate surveys of 1889
and 1900.

Greatly to the regret of many of our citizens who have been
deeply interested in the permanent preservation of Itasca State
Park in its natural condition and primitive beauty, Formative
and Perfective periods in its history, have been recently superceded
by a Critical Period, very distressing in results, caused by an
advance across the area of the state park by destructive lumber-
men, precipitating against state property extensive damages which
will require many years to repair and overcome. Logging roads
have been constructed across state park lands, log landings have
been established along the shores of Itasca Lake, a dam near the
outlet of that historic and reserved body of public water now dis-
astrously floods all its environs, creating a lumberman's booming
reservoir for the private business of individuals against the estab-
lished rights of the state and its people, beginning in December,
1901, and continuing to the present time. While the damage by
backwater floods over the entire area of Itasca and Elk lakes is
slowly and surely creating an extensive shore -line destruction of

park trees, evergreens and forests in the selfish interest of persons
seeking individual gain, the public officials whose duty it is by law
to prosecute offenders against the peace and dignity of the state
aie inactive and acquiescent.

As the original commissioner of this society which first moved
for the creation of a public park in 1889, I assume the responsi-
bility of recording the facts as I understand them for the purpose
of perpetuating the continued history of Itasca. State Park for
this society.

Councilor J. B. Chancy has twice visited Itasca Lake and the
park, contributing otherwise to the preparations necessary for
the present publication.

Mr. Edwin C. Crampton, a life member of this society, made
a, tour of the state park and a canoe and camping adventure
down the Mississippi to Winnebagoshish Lake in 1902, when he
secured a valuable series of views along the whole course of his
continuous voyage, which contains many exact representations
of scenes at the park, Kakabikans Rapids and elsewhere. So
very many of those admirable art productions have been solicited
for illustrations and freely contributed to the pages of this volume
that only this general acknowledgment for Mr. Crampton's con-
tribution to history was convenient.

I wish to acknowledge the uniform kindness extended toward
me by Governor Van Sant and the officials of his administration
while compiling official documents, many of which are now first
published, although it has been very distressing to record and
perpetuate the course of events which so seriously threaten the
stability and value of Itasca State Park.

Very respectfully,

St. Raul, Minn., May 9, 1904. J. V. RROWER.

PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR OF THIS VOLUME.

Commissioner of Itasca State Park, 1891-1895.

( By Request. )

INTRODUCTORY APPEAL.

To Governor Sameel It. Tax Saxt, Ex- Attorney Gexeral
Wallace B. Douglas and Park Commissioner C. E. Bellari).

Gentlemen: On the first day of January, 1901, at the begin-
ning of Governor Van Want's administration of state affairs,
Itasca State Park was in an admirable condition of perfect
preservation. Its every environment was in a state of nature
with rich labyrinths of evergreen shades, dense forests, wooded
ravines, cone -covered hills, mossed lowlands, pine groves, fir,
cedar and birch thickets, all bordering nearly a hundred glittering
and glistening picturesque lakes in a health -giving basin where
distinctly bubbling springs give birth to the Great Father of
Waters at the Source of the Mississippi — an emblem and promise
of continuity in the sacred preservation to the whole body of
a vast and rapidly increasing nation of intelligent people, the
shores and the waters of Itasca Lake and its descending outlet
as a lawfully established and legally protected public resort.

The history of Itasca Lake and its permanent preservation,
in the words of Senator Knute Nelson, are " sacred and dear to
every American heart."

The Great State of Minnesota by the unanimous vote of its
legislature, and the approval of its executive on the 19th day
of April, 1898, accepted a trust from the United States of America
to protect and preserve the granted park privileges of the forested
area of Itasca Basin, therein directing that — "All persons, com-
panies and corporations are, by this act, prohibited from cutting,
destroying, mutilating or injuring any timber, tree, or evergreen
standing or growing upon any of the lands within the limits of
Itasca State Park, granted to the State of Minnesota by the
Congress of the United States.

That mutual compact for the benefit of enlightened humanity
carried with its agreements a solemnly adopted and subsequently
accepted proviso— " That the land hereby granted shall revert
to the United States, together with all improvements thereon, if
at any time it shall cease to be exclusively used for a public
state park, or if the state shall not pass a law or laws to protect
the timber thereon." The italics are intrusive but most con-
vincing and suggestive.

The penalties of a criminal statute, operative and of force,
provide heavy fines and imprisonment for offenses against the
legally established compact between the United States and the
State of Minnesota, whereby all the public lands at Itasca State
Park were dedicated exclusively for public use.

By the happening of untoward and distressing events during
the continuance of the gubernatorial administration for Minne-
sota from January 1, 1901, to January 1, 1905, the stability of
Itasca State Park has been variously and almost irreparably
damaged, demoralized and grievously impaired by lumbering
operations, distinctly provided against by large appropriations
from the state treasury, and by a criminal code, mandatory in
its character and terms, prohibiting the destruction of timber
and trees along the shores of Itasca, Elk, and other lakes and
their tributary creeks. Notwithstanding those precautions Itasca
and Elk lakes were flooded by a lumberman's logging dam
immediately below the outlet of Itasca Lake, first constructed
in 1902, permanently established with gates and chutes in 1903,
and raised and nearly doubled in its capacity in 1904 on lands
now legally dedicated as park property exclusively for the use
of the state. Log booms and log landings covering large surface
areas of Itasca Lake and its approachable shores have greatly
damaged the public property of the park, virtually closing por-
tions of its resorts against public use by the people who are
lawfully in possession of vested rights.

The floods from the lumberman's dam across the Mississippi,
where it formerly connected its winding and descending channel,
have precipitated a backwater overflow which overspreads and
inundates every shore of Itasca and Elk lakes and the banks of
the creeks flowing into them. All the adjoining timber lines
bordering those two lakes are now under water to the great
damage of valuable state property. Lumbering and logging
roads have recently been indiscriminately slashed through and
across park lands, disfiguring their beauty, and opening the way
to all the dangers of forest conflagrations against many mag-
nificent evergreen groves and promiscuous forests which were
numbered among the most valuable park holdings the state
possessed. Now those possessions are hideously disfigured and
the forests are dying and decaying to afford avaricious lumber-
men the opportunity of conducting their private business for

personal gain to the great damage of the state, jeopardizing
its investments, permanently ruining its property and precipi-
tating decay, destruction, floods, and the damages of fire where
the beautiful shore lines, waters and forests of a magnificent
state park once rested in sublime enthrallment and magnificent
preservation.

Now the face of nature is seriously changed at the park.

On the 28th day of March, 1904, Attorney General Douglas
stood on the shore of Itasca Lake and personally witnessed
those damaging changes.

Much has been said concerning the legal rights of lumber-
men to precipitate Itasca Lake into a log boom, its waters
into a reservoir, and its river into a closed timber chute.

The state comes first at its park. Who has offered that it,
also, has vested legal rights in its estate which shall be protected
against indiscriminate deterioration for personal aggrandisement?

It is a crime against the Nation and the State of Minnesota
to longer permit the devastating onslaughts against Itasca Lake
to continue without protest and effective action!

I have often willingly appealed to Governor Van Sant and
Attorney General Douglas in a spirit of unselfish concern, for some
definite amelioration of the destructive forces now operating their
private calling over the waters and along the shores of Itasca
Lake on the ground that they are reserved public emoluments.

Many of the worst features of these distressing subjects are
omitted from the pages of this volume as prejudicial disclosures
against an ameliorating opportunity.

Until January 1, 1905, you are the officials who weild the
greatest control over the destiny of Itasca State Park. Within
that time active official authority energetically asserted, or abro-
gated duty, means intense results for or against Itasca Lake and
its environs.

Rescue or continued destruction. Which?

I beg and pray that you may favorably receive this my
humble petition, earnestly requesting you to direct an assertion
of the legal rights of the state for the segregated preservation
of its magnificent public park to the end that individuals may
not be compelled to demand the intervention of judicial inter-
ception. Humbly and very respectfully,

May 9, 1904. J. V. BBOWEK.

CONTENTS.

P\GE

Sub - Division First, Formative Period 33

Sub-Division Second, Perfective Period 125

Sub-Division Third, Critical Period 185

Sub-Division Fourth, Tours of Observation 249

MAPS.

Itasca Mounds x

Itasca State Park Chart xiii

Mississippi River Commission Chart xv

Section of the Mississippi River 37

First Chart of Itasca State Park 84

Chart of Source of Mississippi 98

State Park Diagram 120

Lieutenant Allen's Chart 246

Beltrami's Map of Doe Lake 266

Schoolcraft's Map of Itasca Lake 267

Ojibway Indian Map 268

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of the Author. xx

Portrait of R. B. Brower xxvi

Portrait of Portius C. Deming xxvii

Portrait of J. H. O'Neil xxviii

Park Rapids and Itasca Road xxix

Portrait of Attorney General Wallace B. Douglas xxx

Itasca Park Lodge xxxi

Portrait of Hernando de Soto xxxii

Radisson Manuscript 41

Hernando de Soto Lake 49

Section Corner Post 50

Potshard and Gunfliiit Knife 54

Textile Imprintation 55

New Winnebagoshish Dam 71

Portrait of William McMullen 78

McMullen's Log Cabin 91

Nicollet's Infant Mississippi 102

Views at Itasca State Park 104

White Birch Thicket 106

Birch and Balsam Thicket 107

Views at Garrison Point 110

Views at Schoolcraft Island 112

Forest Scenes at Itasca Lake 114

Views -at East Arm 116

Record Post and Sign Board , 118

The Park's Cabin 122

Views at Schoolcraft Island 124

Forest Views at Itasca Basin 128

Forest Views at Itasca State Park 130

View at Deming Lake 134

View at Deming Lake 135

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Views at North Arm 138

Theodore Wegniann 139

Camp Brower at Mary Creek 142

Views Along the Upper Mississippi 146

Itasca State Park House 148

Shaking Hands Across the Mississippi : 150

Views at the Park 154

Ramsey Pine 156

Lind Saddle Trail Posts 158

Guide Board ... 160

A Sign Board 163

Views at Deming Lake 164

Brower and Finney Camps 168

Winter Scenes 170

Forest Views 173

Reproduced Field Notes 174

Portrait of Mary H. Gibbs 184

Attorney General Douglas' Treeplanter 191

Dam Near Outlet of Itasca Lake 197

Mouth of Nicollet's Infant Mississippi 202

Cedar Forest 204

Mary Creek Forest 206

The Gibbs Lumber Camp and Logs 208

Log Views at Itasca Lake 222

Views of Logging Dam 223

Clay Imprint of Potshard 229

Old Claim Cabin 230

View on the Mississippi 231

Chaney Point and Bay 232

Kakabikans Rapids 234

View at Cass Lake 235

Forest Scene at Brower Ridge...., 236

On the Mississippi 237

Historic Oaken Post 238

Tourists' Camp Scene 239

Forest View at Mary Lake 240

Camp Scene on the Mississippi 241

Ancient Copper Objects 242

View at Kakabikans Rapids 243

Forest View at New State House 244

Three Ojibway Chiefs 248

Ne-gon-e-be-ness ( Leading Feather) 250

Ne-saun-dah-wanee 251

Crainpton's Descent of the Mississippi 252

Crampton's Camp on the Mississippi 253

Pieces of Ancient Clay Vessels 254

War Clubhead, Knife, Steel, Etc 255

Unauthenticated Portrait of Radisson 257

Portrait of William Morrison 258

Portrait of Julius Chambers 259

Portrait of Rev. J. A. Gilfillan 262

Portrait of Peter and Mary Turnbull 263

Edwin C. Crampton and Companion 270

Bishop Breck and En - me- go w- bow 272

Ojibway Chief Flatmouth, 1855 274

Ojibway Bark Canoe 279

Schutte Block Fire, 1896 280

VIo'wvaaa \L/ . P^HaaaaaaPi .

PARK RAPIDS AND ITASCA ROAD.

From Mr. O'Neil's Great Northern Hotel at Park Rapids,
Minnesota, to Itasca Park .Lodge at Mary Creek, the distance
is twenty-three miles. In good weather the drive can be made
in three, four or five hours, the time required depending upon
the character of the conveyance and disposition of the driver.

Mr. O'Neil has continuously exerted an effective influence over
accommodations for park tourists, roads, and the advancement
of many interests of the state and its park.

While a member of the legislature from Hubbard County, he
secured a standing appropriation for park purposes.

Great regret was repeatedly expressed by advocates of the
park when Mr. O'Neil retired from the legislature.

ATTORNEY GENERAL WALLACE B. DOUGLAS.

ITASCA PARK LODGE.

Appropriation for, Approved April 21, 1903.
Contract for Construction dated March 1.8, 1904.

The above perspective view of the new park building at Itasca
Lake was reduced from the architect's draft extensions by the
Art Engraving Company, of St. Paul, Minnesota, and not from
actual field observations, consequently its appearance in the above
sketch is only approximately illustrated.

The location is at a beautiful pine forest near the bank of
Mary Creek, in Clearwater County.

Much regret has been expressed concerning the determination
to construct the building from green, newly cut pine logs, instead
of from seasoned timber.

It is true that two citizens have positively refused to permit
the use of their respective names for a designation of this new
state structure on the ground that it is not proper to name a
state building after any living individual.

;!; y^^?;^*;s s y* -- *o

HERNANDO I)K SOTO.

Original Discoverer of the Mississippi River, 1541.

From Publications of the Bradford Club.

ITASCA STATE PARK.

AX ILLUSTRATED HISTORY.
SUBDIVISION FIRST.

Hernando de Soto, distinguished in the annals of American his-
tory as Adelantado of Florida, on Sunday, May 8th, 1541, made or-
iginal discovery of the Mississippi River where it flowed through a
country called Quizquiz, now known in part as the State of Mississippi.

Mr. John Fiske following suggestions earlier made by Count F. A.
de Varnhagen while ambassador of Brazil to Portugal, in his Discovery
of America, undertook the perpetuation of fraudulent history by a stren-
uous endeavor to prove that Americus Vespucius sailed past the mouth
of the Great River in 1497, discovering that wonderful water-course.
Fiske 's chart traces a voyage along the entire coast line of the Gulf
of Mexico, laying down the imaginary discoveries of Vespucius, with
no proof whatever that any such voyage was ever accomplished. A
weaker and more picturesque writer falling into error under the influ-
ence of the Varnhagen-Fiske romances, recently uttered an additional
clause to the farce, at St. Paul, Minnesota, by proposing that Vespu-
cius probably sailed his ship into the channel of the Mississippi and
became its original discoverer. America is so cursed by careless and
irresponsible writers who persist in recording errors, that it seems
useless to undertake corrections to ameliorate the troubles and per-
plexities which embarrass more cautious writers. However, one duty
in that direction is now assumed by a brief consideration of the true

34 ITASCA STATE PARK.

character of Mr. John Fiske, because his errors affect the stability of
history.

Mr. Edwin C. Crampton, the distinguished photographer, as a
painstaking student of American history reading at page 232, Fiske 's
Critical Period in American History, earliest edition, quoted in an
essay the speech there formulated by Fiske, who stated it as having
been delivered by George Washington at the constitutional convention
for the founding of the United States of America. An inquiry for fur-
ther information concerning a speech that was never delivered until
Mr. John Fiske uttered it on a deceptive and degrading page of history
brought to Mr. Crampton the following astonishing admission that
Fiske 's histories were based on whatever he might fortunately remem-
ber, during the time he wrote, intermediate betw T een influences pre-
cipitated by excessive indulgences in stimulating usages:

Cambridge, July 8, 1896.
E. C. Crampton, Esq.

Dear Sir : My statement in Crit. Period, p. 232, is inaccurate. I
was misled by a misrecollection of the statement of Gouverneur Morris
in his Eulogy, in a volume entitled Washingtoniana, p. 110, (publ. Lan-
caster, Pa., 1802).

Washington doubtless made the speech informally during the first
week and before the convention was organized for regular work. All
the same, it would seem to have toned up the convention.

I discovered my error some time ago and shall correct it in the
revised edition of C. P., which I hope to issue late in 1897.

Yours truly,
JOHN FISKE.

"Misled by a misrecollection" while writing for the guidance of
young students of American history, is a very extraordinary statement,
no more so than the utterance of a falsehood that Vespucius discovered
the Mississippi, or that the meaning of Kansa is "South Wind;"— in-
excusable absurdities. How many additional errors Mr. John Fiske
inflicted upon American history must remain unknown until events
purge the unfortunate writer's record of perhaps hundreds of his
"misrecollections," from the power to mislead the unwary and de-
ceive the just. The correction of an additional error concerning the

ITASCA STATE PARK. 35

discovery of the Mississippi, recently inflicted upon the Minnesota
Historical Society, is here briefly undertaken.

Alonzo Alvarez de Pineda, in 1519, while searching for some gulf
or strait in the main land towards Florida, put in with his vessels to a
bay where there was a large river and populous mainland. He ascended
the river about sixteen miles, discovering forty villages of natives at
the province of Amiehel, a good land, peaceful, healthy, and provided
with abundance of food and fruits. This visit of Pineda to a region
maintaining forty towns was without difficulty or embarrassing impedi-
ments to easy and satisfactory navigation. The explorations along
the coast of Florida, conducted recently by Mr. Clarence B. Moore, indi-
cate that Mobile Bay with its two rivers and numerous indications of
ancient Indian occupancy can be reasonably and assuredly accepted as
the site where Pineda careened his vessels on a convenient and acces-
sible shore while trading at populous villages of native Indians; in-
deed, no other bay on the north coast of the Gulf of Mexico fulfills the
Pineda description. A continuation of Mr. Moore's explorations thence
westward shows that the ancient population was most certainly less
toward the mouth of the Mississippi, until finally approaching Ponchar-
train all evidences of ancient occupancy cease entirely, so that Mobile
Bay can be reasonably accepted as the scene of Pineda's visit in 1519.
The claim that Pineda sailed up the Mississippi River 200 miles and
made complete discovery of that stream between the delta and the ap-
proachable banks of the river about the present site of Baton Rouge is
preposterous, damaging to the society which permits a captious writer
to menace its stability and degrade its record. It can be safely de-
termined beyond the possibility of doubt that neither Vespucius nor
Pineda saw or sailed into the channel of the Mississippi. When Garay's
expedition, under command of Panfilo de Narvaez, sailed its wooden
boats past the mouth of the Mississippi, the unfortunate members of
that remarkable voyage were driven out to sea without entering the
channel of the stream which flooded the gulf with fresh water. To see
and mention a freshet flowing into the Gulf of Mexico, in 1528, can
never be accepted with proper regard for established standards, as a
true discovery of the Mississippi. It remained for Hernando de Soto,

36 ITASCA STATE PARK.

thirteen years later, to make the true discovery, and it is to be re-
gretted that the gentleman of Elvas did not name it Hernando de Soto
River, in honor of the intrepid though cruel discoverer who first dis-
covered the importance of its existence, a condition which has been
insignificantly ameliorated by the present author in naming a beauti-
ful lake at Itasca Basin after the true and original discoverer of the
longest river channel in the world.

A very significant fact in connection with the Pineda-Soto separate
chronicles of distinct discoveries and explorations, characteristically
reveals the names of the various lands they visited, Pineda at Amichel
and Soto at Quizquiz and Pacaha, consequently the writers who send
the Pineda expedition up the Mississippi several hundred miles to
habitable areas above the canebrakes and swamps below Baton Rouge
must obliterate the name Quizquiz from our history and substitute
Amichel in its place, an act impossible of accomplishment and dishonor-
able to propose. Likewise they must entirely change established his-
tory identifying the character of the people at each province in order
to accomplish the proposition of sending Pineda up the channel of the
Mississippi from the Gulf of Mexico sixteen miles to forty villages of
natives at Amichel in the flooded districts of the present State of
Louisiana about Ponchartrain or below New Orleans. Such consid-
erations plainly reveal how distressing is the spectacle at the com-
mencement of the benign and critical period for accuracy in American
history, to witness any society in all this great land adopting into its
records a deceptive and disgraceful change from facts to fiction by
attempts to land Pineda on the banks of the Mississippi as its discov-
erer where he could not have found forty towns or even one village
of natives at a land of plenty called Amichel. One hundred and
eighty years after Pineda was at Mobile Bay, Iberville found the people
of Amilcou in the region east of the .Mississippi and not on the banks
of that river.

Soto died on the banks of the river he discovered and his remains
were cast into that stream, whereupon his lieutenant, Luys Moscoso,
in rudely made wooden ships, navigated the lower portion of the river
from Quizquiz and Pacaha to the open sea beyond Ponchartrain, com-

MAP OF A SECTION OF THE MISSISSIPPI 1UVFR.
The location is below Baton Rouge, Louisiana, showing the impossibility of
Pineda's Caravels sailing up that swift, crooked and barricaded channel, in
1519, to Amichel, which was not located on the Mississippi at a land called
Quizquiz by chroniclers of the Soto expedition in 1541. Forty villages of
natives could not have existed along the lower 20<> miles of the Mississippi at
a land of peace and plenty on account of annual floods, hence Pineda did not
sail his caravels up that stream to forty thriving towns occupied by natives,
and he did not discover the Mississippi river.

38 ITASCA STATE PARK.

pleting a substantial discovery based on actual performances while
suffering incredible misfortunes in an unknown country. Why cap-
tious and disrespectful writers should undertake an unhappy proposal
to change such substantial history for vague and unproved proposals in
favor of Vespucius and Pineda, can only be accounted for by a pre-
sumption that insignificant authors hope to become more noticed and
less obscure, even at the expense of outraged history.

In 1659, two Frenchmen, Pierre Esprit Radisson and Medard
Chouart, intrepid and tireless explorers in the fur country of Lake
Superior, were invited by the Spirit Lake villagers (Dakotas, of Mille
Lac) to visit their country. From the headwaters of St. Croix River
they proceeded westward along the Knife (Isanti) Sioux Trail, first
placing the footprints of Europeans upon the soil of Minnesota at
the locality now known as Pine County, in the month of January, 1660.
They came into contact with the Dakotas of the Teton and Ihankton
bands, surely indicated by Radisson 's correct descriptions of the
prairies of Minnesota lying west of the Mississippi, and securing a
description of Forked River, very reasonably understood to mean the
Missouri and upper Mississippi as the forks of the main stream. By
the details mentioned in Radisson 's published book, accurately de-
scribing the forested and prairie regions of Minnesota and the know T n
habits and settlements of the Dakota Nation, there can remain little
doubt that Radisson and Chouart not only became the original dis-
coverers of Minnesota but also of the Upper Mississippi.

The studies of Benjamin Suite and of Henry Colon Campbell,
reputable students of the Radisson narratives, simplify that unique
and curiously written history to such an extent that the unhappy
effort to land those explorers at Prairie Island above Red Wing and
Lake Pepin must necessarily become a menace to the stability of such
a prize as is guaranteed by uncontaminated and undisturbed truths of
history.

After Radisson came the remarkable voyages of various time-
honored pioneer explorers along the whole course of the Mississippi.
Events became precious to the historical students who declare for the
facts in place of fictitious romances and deplorable 1 errors until at the

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40 ITASCA STATE PARK.

dawn of the twentieth century the cobwebs of uncertainty can be swept
aside to give place to a tabulated, compact catalogue of discoveries
from the Gulf of Mexico to Itasca Lake, along the whole course of the
Mississippi.

STANDARD HISTORICAL FACTS.

1497. Americus Vespucius was in Spain attending to profes-
sional duties as a ship chandler. There is no proof to substantiate the
bogus claim that he discovered the Mississippi River. Any such state-
ment should be stamped as a base attempt to falsify history,

1519. Alonzo Alvarez de Pineda sailed into Mobile Bay, careened
his ships on approachable shores and penetrated a river sixteen miles,
occupied by natives at forty villages. The Mississippi River at its
mouths was unnavigable on account of floating deadwood, flooded
banks and turbid currents, up which ships could not sail. No native
villages on dry ground could be made permanent along the lowest 200
miles of the Mississippi.

1528. Panfilo de Narvaez sailed to a point opposite one of the
mouths of the Mississippi, but did not enter or discover its channel.
Nunez Cabeza de Vaca, treasurer and chronicler of the expedition, re-
ported the facts, as follows:

"We sailed that day until the middle of the afternoon, when my
boat, which was first, discovered a point made by the land, and
against a cape opposite passed a broad river. I cast anchor near a
little island forming the point, to await the arrival of the other boats.
The Governor did not choose to come up, and entered the bay near by
in which were a great many islets,. We came together there and took
fresh water from the sea, the stream entering it in freshet. To parch
some of the maize we brought with us, since we had eaten it raw for
two days, we went on an island, but finding no wood, we agreed to go
to the river beyond the point, one league off. By no effort could we
get there, so violent was the current on the way, which drove us out
while we contended and strove to gain the land. The north wind
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ITASCA STATE PARK. 43

us to sea without our being able to overcome it.— Minn. Historical
Collections, Vol. VII., p. 23.

1541. Hernando de Soto discovered the Mississippi, May 8th (old
style), at an Indian province called Quizquiz, crossed it, explored
regions beyond, returned to the river again, April 17th, 1542, where
he soon died, and his remains were afterward sunk to the bottom of
the Mississippi, which he had named the Rio Grande.

1543. Luys Moscoso, after Soto died, assumed command of the
Spanish forces, and in seven newly constructed brigantines, passed
down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico, completing a perfected
discovery of the Great River along its lower course.

1660. Peter Esprit Radisson and Medard Chouart, two French-
men visiting the Dakota nation of Indians at and west from Mille Lac,
learned of the existence of the Mississippi, which flowed through the
Dakota region. Radisson 's unique narrative, now on deposit with the
Bodleian Library at Oxford, contains the following :

"We weare 4 moneths in our voyage without doeing anything
but goe from river to river. We niett several sorts of people. We con-
versed with them, being long time in alliance with them. By the persua-
sion of som of them we went into ye great river that divides itself in 2,
where the hurrons with some Ottanake & the wild men that had warrs
with them had retired. There is not great difference in their language
as we weare told. This nation have warrs against those of forked river.
It is so called because it has 2 branches, the one towards the west, the
other towards the south, wch we believe runns towards Mexico, by the
tokens they gave us."

The trumped up claim that the above language can be construed
as descriptive of the discovery of Minnesota in 1655, at Prairie Island,
in the Mississippi, above Lake Pepin, has been exposed and condemned
in Memoirs of Explorations in the Basin of the Mississippi, Vol. V.,
pp.., 104-111, as inimical to the cause of geographic science.

1661. Father Nicholas Freytas, a chronicler of the expedition of
Governor Penalosa of New Mexico, first mentioned the name "Mis-
sissippi," in the following words:

"Through these most pleasant and fertile fields we marched dur-
ing the months of March, April, May and the kalends of June, and

44 ITASCA STATE PARK.

arrived at a large river which they call Mischipi, where we saw the
first Indians of the Escanxaques nation, who might be to the number
of 3,000 most warlike." etc.— Minn. Historical Collections, Vol. VII.,
p. 36.

Eecent investigations which bring into question the Penalosa ex-
pedition cannot finally affect the fact that Father Freytas wrote the
word "Mischipi," thereby becoming its original chronicler.

1673. Louis Joliet and Father Jacques Marquette, S. J., reached
the Mississippi at the mouth of the Wisconsin on the 15th (17th?) day
of June, whence they descended the Mississippi in a canoe to the
region where Hernando de Soto died 159 years before. The first men-
tion ever made of Itasca Lake was by Marquette, as follows :

"The Mississippi river derives its origin from various lakes which
lie in the country of the tribes of the north./ 7

1680. When the Sieur de LaSalle sent Michael Accault and An-
thony Auguelle, on the 29th of February, 1680, on a voyage from Fort
Crevecouer in a canoe loaded with goods to trade with the Nadoues-
sioux along the upper course of the Mississippi, Father Louis Henne-
pin was despatched with them. The party arrived at the mouth of
the Illinois River March 7th, and proceeded to make an unquestioned
original discovery of the upper course of the Mississippi. They were
taken prisoners by a Sioux war party near the site of the present City
of Burlington, Iowa, and in nineteen days arrived at Dayton's Bluffs
and proceeded overland to Mille Lac, whence in July they proceeded
down Rum River and the Mississippi to St. Anthony Falls, mouth of
Minnesota River, and thence down the Mississippi, completing a dis-
covery of that stream from the mouth of the Illinois to the entrance
of Rum River, where the City of Anoka is now situated.

The Accault-Hennepin discoveries will eventually supersede the
uncertainties of the Radisson-Chouart claim on account of missing
proof and unreliable interpretations.

1690-1700. Pierre Le Sueur, discoverer of Minnesota River and
trader among the Sioux villagers, writing from Paris in 1701, said:

"I have already said that I had ascended more than 100 leagues
above the Falls of St. Anthony, which is the only place where it is

ITASCA STATE PARK. 45

necessary to carry one's canoe and baggage, in ascending the Mis-
sissippi from its mouth to its source, and the Sioux with whom I went
up assured me that there were yet more than ten days journey to
ascend. It is at least 100 leagues before coming to the sources of the
Mississippi. I say sources, because there are many of them, according
to the report of the savages."

The exact date when Le Sueur ascended the Mississippi from St.
Anthony Falls to Sandy Lake seems to have been lost to history.

1798. David Thompson, an English Astronomer, entered the ser-
vice of the Northwest Company in 1797. In the performance of the duties
required of him, he passed from the north shore of Lake Superior to
Manitoba and the Mandan villages on the Missouri and prepared to
"connect" the waters of the Red River and the Mississippi. He left
the Mouse River February 25th, 1798, with a dog train. He suc-
cessively reached and passed the mouth of the Assiniboine and Pem-
bina Rivers, passed up the Red River of the North to Red Lake River,
and on the 17th of April arrived at Red Lake. Passing to the south-
ward, he reached Turtle Lake April 27th, from which flows "Turtle
Brook." He was accredited, to some extent, as the discoverer of the
source of the Mississippi at Turtle Lake. He descended Turtle River
to Cass Lake, and thence down the Mississippi through "Winni-
pegoos" Lake to the north of "Sand Lake River" and thence across
the divide to Lake Superior. Notes of his travels have been preserved
and to some extent published, making his voyage the first authentic
account of an examination of that part of the Mississippi River be-
tween Cass Lake and Sandy Lake.-— Vol. VII., Minn. Historical Col-
lections, p. 117.

The records left by Mr. Thompson have become inaccessible by
inopportune and haphazzard distribution. A search for confirmation
of the report that Mr. Thompson was at Itasca Lake in 1812, or before
that date, has been without result, at Ottawa, Canada, and elsewhere.

1804. An authenticated communication in the handwriting of
William Morrison, addressed to his brother, Allan Morrison, con-

4G ITASCA STATE PARK.

tinues to remain the only known description of the original discovery of
It asca Lake, which is reprinted as follows :

Berthier, 16th January, 1856.

My Dear Brother :— -Your letter of the 26th ultimo has come to
hand. We were happy to hear from you and yours. George's letters
likewise are received. Fanny will answer him and his mother also.

You do not say a word about your trip to the States this winter
and your intended visit to us. Will not the treaty take place this
winter ?

I note what you say concerning the source of the Mississippi.
You wish to know who was the first person who went to its source.
For the information of the H. Society, I will state to you all about
what came to my knowledge, by which you will perceive that H. R.
Schoolcraft is in error and that he was not the first person who made
the discovery of the source of the Mississippi.

I left the old Grand Portage, July, 1802, landed at Leech Lake in
September. In October, I went and wintered on one of the Crow Wing-
streams near its source. Our Indians were Pillagers ; in 1803-4, I went
and wintered at Lac La Folic I left Leech Lake, passed by Red Cedar
Lake, up river Lac Travers to the lake of that name, then up river
La Biche or Elk River, to near Lake La Biche, when we made a port-
age to fall into Lac La Folle. Lac La Biche is near to Lac La Folle.
Lac La Biche is the source of the Great River Mississippi, which I
visited in 1804, and if the late Gen. Pike did not lay it down as such
when he came to Leech Lake it is because he did not happen to meet
me. I was at an outpost that winter. The late Gen. Pike laid down
on his book Red Cedar Lake as the head of the Mississippi River. I
did not trace any vestige of white men before me. In 1811-12, I win-
tered again at Lac La Folle near to the plains. We went down river
La Folle some distance. I then overtook a gentleman with an outfit
from Michilimackinac, Mr. Otepe, with whom I parted only at Fon du
Lac. He took the south towards Mch'a and I north to our headquar-
ters, which had been changed to Fort William north of the Grand
Portage. This I expect will explain that I visited in 1804, Elk Lake,
and again in 1811-12,.. With respect to the first Fon du Lac traders,

ITASCA STATE PARK. 47

we all came from Mackinac. Some came by Lake Superior and others
up by Prairie du Chien, up to Crow Wing and some went to Lac La
Que de 1'Outre— Otter Tail Lake— Messrs. Reaume, Cotton, Casselais,
Sayers, Letang and several others, some came by Lake Superior and
others up the Mississippi by way of Prairie du Chien. These persons
were persons who preceded us. The French had trading posts on Lake
Superior, but not in the interior of F. D. L. that I could ever discover.
The late Mr. Sayers returned from Mckina and found that his bands of
Indians had died by the smallpox— 1780— I think.

Perhaps it is not amiss to mention that I went to the Indian coun-
try engaged to Sir Alexander McKenzie & Co., who had joined stock
with the X. Y. Co., formerly the Richardson & Co.

I went into the country in opposition to the old N. W. Co. I found
in Fon du Lac, N. W. traders, Messrs. Sayers at Leech Lake, Cotton at
Fon du Lac and Bousquai at Sandy Lake. My party were Michel and
Antoine Cheniers— brothers, John McBean and Messrs. Bouvin and
Grignon.

We opposed all the N. W. posts until 1805, when a coalition took
place between McKenzie and N. W. Co. The trade was carried on
jointly until after the late war in 1816. J. J. Astor of New York,
bought out the whole stocks of the company which was within the II.
S. territory. J. J. A. gave the name of his concern the A. M. F. Co ,
who extended their trade from the old Grand Portage to the Lake of
the Woods. Their route was up the St. Louis to the heights of land
and then down the Rainy Lake River to Lake of the Woods. Our
grandfather Waddin was killed by Pierrepont and Lasiur in 1780 and
buried at Lac Le Rouge,

I have not McKenzie ? s travels before me for the precise years of
his voyage.

Francheu is pretty correct in his statements. Mr. Bond, your
writer, must have seen these gentlemen's travels.

I will send you enclosed a letter from my old friend Geo. Nelson,
who wintered at Folle Avoine in 1802-3-4.

I have had the honor of having been named a member of the H. S.

48 ITASCA STATE PARK.

of Superior, who have a just right to claim any information they may
require that I can give them. Your affectionate brother,

WILLIAM MORRISON.

1832. Henry R. Schoolcraft, Lieut. James Allen, Rev. W. T.
Boutwell and several members of the Schoolcraft expedition, guided
by an Ojibway Indian named Ozawindib (Yellow Hair), reached Itasca
Lake July 13th, and went into an encampment at Schoolcraft Island.
Mr. Boutwell and Mr. Schoolcraft had previously named the lake from
the two words— Veritas and Caput, meaning true head. The present
author secured from Mr. Boutwell in person a complete description
of how, when and where the name Itasca was formulated, as described
at page 145, Vol. VII., Minn. Historical Collections. They descended
the Mississippi from Itasca Lake to Cass Lake.

1836. Jean N. Nicollet, a talented French Astronomer, on a canoe
voyage to Itasca Lake, discovered and explored Nicollet's Infant Mis-
sissippi, August 29th, to the Nicollet lakes and springs.

1872. Julius Chambers, June 9th, coasted Elk Lake in his canoe,
discovering and ascending Chambers' Creek, which the present author
named in his honor.. The Chambers discovery is completely authenti-
cated by a map and printed descriptions.

1875. Edwin S. Hall, with a party of assistants and a team, first
reached Itasca Lake with horses in the month of October, when he
made an official survey of the township for the United States, estab-
lishing section corners and meandering Elk and Itasca lakes.

1889. J. V. Brower, with an exploring party, representing the
Minnesota Historical Society, penetrated the Itasca Basin with transit
and level lines to Morrison and Hernando de Soto lakes, which he
named, finally reaching the utmost waters in the Basin of the Mis-
sissippi; photographing the same May 3rd, and placing on charts the
ultimate reservoirs which give birth to the springs at the source of

iiiiii!

SECTION CORNER POST AT SOURCE OF MISSISSIPPI.

S. 21, 22, 27, 28, T. 143, B.W.
ESTABLISHED BY EDWIN S. HALL, 1875.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 51

the Mississippi River. The final chart of those discoveries has become
a standard record.

Thus the entire length of the channel of the river was discovered
between June 9th, 1541, and May 3rd, 1889.

GEOLOGIC FORMATIONS.

Having stated concisely acceptable and duly authenticated facts
concerning' the discovery of the Mississippi from its mouth to Itasca
Lake and its Ultimate Reservoir, rejecting unfounded allegations and
factitious romances, attempted by unseemly chroniclers as ambitious
and unwarranted changes against a clean and reputable record, that
the truth might expire and the vicious survive, attention is directed
toward a beautiful geological study represented by peculiar and at-
tractive typographic heights and hydrographic depths.

No competent geologist has ever critically examined the Itasca
Basin and no extended study of its geologic history has been hereto-
fore attempted, notwithstanding the importance of the natural forma-
tion which created a continental divide within sight of Itasca Lake
at a point near the head of Boutwell and Demaray creeks, whence
waters flow to the Gulf of Mexico and Hudson Bay, respectively, from
the summit of Itasca Moraine, a range of glacial hills which trend
north and south from the head of Wild Rice River to a point west
from Hernando de Soto Lake, and thence sharply eastward, forming
an elbow-shaped curvature, inside of which is a deeply seated depres-
sion known as the Itasca Basin, about four miles in extent in any
direction from the centre of Elk Lake, where the greatest depth of
water is 90 feet, adjacent heights of land attaining an elevation 323
feet greater than the lowest depression at the pit of the basin. The
greater heights are east and west of Elk Lake, creating a lower level
where Morrison and Hernando de Soto lakes arc situated than appears
at the head of Boutwell Creek or at Sibilant Lake. Those sharply differ-
entiated heights and depths in close proximity, capable of being viewed
from the crest of Aiton Heights, indicate a probable pressure of
tremendous glacial forces from a northeastward direction toward the

52 ITASCA STATE PARK.

southwest, creating kettle holes now filled with water at Itasca, Elk, Mor-
rison, Hernando de Soto and many lesser lakes, several of which were
originally one large glacial lake encompassed by surrounding heights,
which were severed at Kakabikans Eapids, the erosion of ages gradu-
ally forming the bed of the Mississippi as it flows out from the north
end of Itasca Lake at the present time. That glacial lake had extensive
arms and bays, extending up the present location of French, Island,
Boutwell, Mary and other creeks, Mary Valley and Nicollet Valley,
maintaining an original area several times the present size of Itasca
Lake, with Bear Point, Morrison Hill and Brower Ridge as Island
formations.

Canceling the foot note at page 243, Vol VII., Minn. Historical
Collections, the ancient lake at Itasca Basin is now named Win-
chell Lake, after Professor Newton IT. Winchell, he having named an-
other glacial body of water Upham Lake, thereby the glacial no-
menclature of Minnesota is easily and conveniently readjusted to
ameliorate an inadvertent repetition caused by an oversight on the
part of Professor Winchell.

One beautiful study concerning the eroded stream-beds formulated
by the gradual recession and sharply reduced lake area originally rep-
resented by the expanse of Winchell Lake, is found at the head of
Division Creek (profanely and often called Sucker Creek), where at an
extensive marshy and swampy division of waters during excessive rain-
fall, the fiowage is east to the Mississippi and westward to the Red River
of the North from a given point, creating connected channels of water
from the Gulf of Mexico to Hudson Bay, whereby expression was
faithfully rendered in applying the name to Division Creek to indicate
that the waters divided at the head of that stream on the surface at
the east side of Township 144, Range 37, likewise at the crest of a ridge
where the waters divided.

The names of Division Creek in place of Sucker Creek, and Mc-
Mullen Lake in place of Squaw Lake, are confidently reasserted to ap-
propriately recognize and perpetuate hydrographic and historic facts,
nicely to discriminate against the vulgar notions of ignorant and illiter-
ate timber cruisers who have not been keenly aware of the intricate

ITASCA STATE PARK. 53

formation of niorainic heights at Division Creek, or the services to
humanity unselfishly rendered by the unfortunate William McMullen
vt his cabin at Itasca Lake.

The earliest known appearance of man along the course of the
Mississippi River was at the white quartz and slate quarries under-
lying Little Falls, Morrison County, Minnesota.

While the ice-cap at the end of the last glacial period rested
across the area of Northern Minnesota, in summer seasons precipitating
floods southward, an unidentified race of men quarried the quartz at
Little Falls and chipped innumerable blades from that material, leav-
ing many thousands of drippings and cores near the quarry site where
glacial sands and cobbles and pebbles w T ere spread over the area occu-
pied by a glacial people. Carefully arranged explorations disclosed the
tiue conditions which exist there, indicating certainly that a paleolithic
people were present in the Mississippi Basin more than 7,000 years ago.
A recent discovery by the present author at the top of a high hill on
the west side of the Mississippi, one mile above the City of Brainerd,
where white quartz blades and drippings were recovered from the walls
of an excavated roadway, deeply buried in the glacial sands, ade-
quately sustain the Little Falls discovery. More particularly so be-
cause at neither site could be found associated with the quartz blade
any pot shard, arrowpoint or spearhead, common objects plentifully
scattered over all the mound builder village sites along the Upper Mis-
sissippi.

In October, 1894, the location of a considerable mound builder
occupancy was first discovered at Itasca Lake along the east shore of
the north arm, where McMullen 's cabin was situated. The following
year the Itasca mounds were discovered and explored, followed by
less important outlying indications of ancient occupancy at Hill Point,
Morrison Hill and Mary Lake. Deep cache pits were also discovered
on Schoolcraft Island, at Mary Creek and at Deming Lake. Subse-
quent examinations resulted in a conclusion that the mound builders
had a trail from Itasca Lake to Sibilant Lake and Lesser Mantrap
Lake. The village site at the north end of Itasca Lake was pleasantly
situated along a natural terrace overlooking the lake, and the mound

CLAY POTSIIARD AND GUNFLINT KNIFE.

ITASCA LAKE VILLAGE SITE.

DONATION BY THEODORE WEGMANN.

Identified as Dakota Indian Objects by Acute Comparison with Mille Lac
Archaeologic Museum Collections.

TEXTILE FABRIC IMPBINTATIOK.

DAKOTA INDIAN POTSHARD FROM LAKE PEPIN.

C. G. WEYL.

(MAGNIFIED.)
PHOTOGRAPHED BY

,T.V ■ *^.'"* - \%f^^i¥>

OJIBWAY INDIAN HABITATIONS.

riM»EK BRANCHES OF THE MISSISSIPPI. mv.\.

58 ITASCA STATE PARK.

laws governing it are here republished for the better guidance of those
who choose to become familiar with the facts:

AN ACT TO ESTABLISH AND CREATE A PUBLIC PARK, TO BE
KNOWN AND DESIGNATED AS THE ITASCA STATE PARK,
AND AUTHORIZING THE CONDEMNATION OF LANDS FOR
PARK PURPOSES.

Be is enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota:

Section 1. That section six (6), township one hundred and forty-
two (142), range thirty-five (35) ; sections six (6), seven (7), eighteen
(18), nineteen (19), thirty (30) and thirty-one (31), township one
hundred and forty three (143), range thirty-five (35) ; sections one
(1), two (2), three (3), four (4), nine (9), ten (10), eleven (11),
twelve (12), thirteen (13), fourteen (14), fifteen (15), sixteen (16),
twenty-one (21), twenty-two (22), twenty-three (23), twenty-four
(24), twenty-five (25), twenty-six (26), twenty-seven (27), twenty-
eight (28), thirty-three (33), thirty-four (34), thirty-five (35), and
thirty-six (36), township one hundred and forty-three (143), range
thirty-six (36); and sections one (1), two (2), three (3) and four
(4), township one hundred and forty-two (142), range thirty-six (36),
or so much thereof as the state is now or may hereafter become seized,
shall be set apart and perpetually used as a public park.

Sec. 2. The name of said park shall be the Itasca State Park, and
the same is by this act dedicated to the perpetual use of the people of
this state under the proper restrictions hereinafter provided, or which
may be hereafter provided by law.

Sec. 3. The general care and supervision of the Itasca State
Park, until otherwise provided for, shall be vested in the state auditor
acting as state land commissioner.

Sec. 4. Any person who shall wilfully cut, destroy or mutilate,
or who shall wilfully cause to be cut, destroyed or mutilated, any tree,
timber or evergreen in said park, or who shall kill or cause to be killed
any moose, bear, deer, fox, otter or other wild animal in said park,
or who shall in any other manner than with a hook and line take any
fish from the waters of said park, shall be guilty of a misdemeanor, and,
upon conviction thereof, shall be fined for the first offense fifty (50)
dollars, for the second offense two hundred (200) dollars, and for the
third or further offenses he shall be fined and imprisoned not less
than ninety (90) days, nor more than one (1) year, in the discretion

ITASCA STATE PARK. 57

group was located one-quarter of a mile to the northward. Explorations
indicated conclusively that the Itasca Lake mound builder was of the
same nation and time as the Mille Lac, Pine River and Fort Pillager
aborigines, preceding the coming of the Ojibway nation, and also that
the village at Itasca Lake was not of greater age than the earthworks
which were constructed in Northern Minnesota during the continuance
of the Hohe war, previous to 1634. Also that all of the mounds in
Minnesota were constructed by ancient Indian peoples, ancestors of
the present Sioux, Iowa, Assiniboine and other bands. The village
site and mounds at Itasca Lake were of Dakota Indian origin, exactly
similar to the village sites and mounds established by the same people
at Mille Lac.

Many hundreds of arrowpoints, stone hammers, spearheads, blades,
flint knives, cores, pot shards and objects have been gathered from the
Itasca Lake village site, which was originally discovered by the pres-
ent author while he was commissioner of Itasca State Park, and the
collection forms a very interesting portion of the Archaeologic Mu-
seum material preserved in the Capitol building at St. Paul, Minne-
sota, by the author of this volume.

The scientific study which resulted in a complete identification of
the ancient Dakota bands as builders of mounds and makers of clay
pots and flint arrowpoints has been perpetuated in Mille Lac, Kathio,
Kakabikansing' and Minnesota, four volumes published from field
notes, charts and surveys established by the investigations which orig-
inally resulted in locating Itasca State Park.

The fact that Dakota Indians used scaffolds for mortuary pur-
poses, bundling the bones of their dead afterward, and barricading the
same with earth, thereby forming many thousands of mounds, gave
occasion to archaeologically trace them to discover exactly their an-
cient customs and habits. The results overturned previous conclusions
when it was found that original mound interments at Mille Lac con-
tained Dakota Indian pottery, arrowpoints and bundled bones.

An offshoot of one of the Dakota bands established the Itasca
Lake village site and constructed the mounds there discovered.

Before proceeding to a consideration of the details relating to the
numerous items of historic miscellany affecting Itasca State Park, the

ITASCA STATE PARK. 59

oi the judge presiding at the trial of the cause. All offenses charged
for misdemeanors as hereinbefore provided shall be tried and deter-
mined under the general laws of this state applicable to the trial of
criminal actions in like causes.

Sec. 5. The state auditor shall take proper proceedings, under
existing laws, relative to the appraisal and sale of school lands, to
cause the transfer of the school lands in said park for park purposes,
and at the sale thereof the same shall be bid in by the state for such
park purposes.

Sec. 6. The governor shall appoint a qualified resident of this
state a commissioner, who shall file with the state auditor his oath to
support the constitution of this state and to conscientiously perform
the duties of his office.

It shall be the duty of the commissioner to take all reasonable
steps to procure for the state from landed property holders, railroad
companies, corporations or individuals owning lands within the limits
of said park, concessions to the state for park purposes by contract or
deed, subject to the approval of the governor. In case any tract or
parcel or parcels of land within the limits of said park cannot be sat-
isfactorily secured, the governor may direct the said commissioner to
institute, for and on behalf of the state, proceedings in condemnation,
as now provided by law, for condemning and converting private prop-
erty within this state to public use. In case of any proceedings in con-
demnation, the said commissioner, under the direction of the attorney
general, may appear for the state in prosecuting to a final determination
all causes and actions thereunder.

Whenever any proceedings in condemnation are had and taken for
the condemnation and conversion of any of said lands, all of the pro-
visions of an act approved March nine (9), eighteen hundred and sev-
enty-four (1874), entitled "An act to provide for obtaining title to
lands by the state of Minnesota for the use of the state," and all amend-
ments thereto, shall be applicable in all proceedings for the condem-
nation herein provided for.

Sec. 7. The commissioner herein provided for shall receive a
compensation of five (5) dollars per day for the time he is actually em-
ployed and his reasonable traveling expenses necessarily incurred, a
schedule of which time and expense he shall make under oath and file
with the state auditor; Provided, that the number of days for which
compensation shall be allowed shall not exceed sixty (60).

Sec. 8. The commissioner shall prepare a detailed chart of said
park, and shall make and file a report to the governor of all action

GO ITASCA STATE PARK.

taken by him, which shall be transmitted to the next session of the
legislature.

Sec. 9. The said commissioner shall have power to administer
oaths and take acknowledgments, and to serve all necessary notices
in the performance of his duties as a commissioner; and he shall ex-
amine the records in the offices of the registers of deeds for the counties
of Becker, Hubbard, Cass and Beltrami in perfecting title to the state
for said lands, and the registers of deeds for said counties are hereby
required to permit of the examination of titles to any of said lands,
without charge to the state.

Sec. 10. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 20, 1891.

Statutes of the United States of America, 1891-92. Fifty-second
congress.

Chapter 362. An act to grant certain public lands to the State
of Minnesota for perpetual use as a public park.

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the
United States of America in Congress assembled, that all undisposed
lands of the United States, situated in the following subdivisions ac-
cording to the public surveys thereof, to-wit : Section six of township
one hundred and forty-two ; sections six, seven, eighteen, nineteen,
thirty and thirty-one, of township one hundred and forty-three, all in
range thirty-five; sections one, two, three and four, of township one
hundred and forty-two, and sections one, two, three, four, nine, ten,
eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen, sixteen, twenty-one, twenty-
two, twenty-three, twenty-four, twenty-five, twenty-six, twenty-seven,
twenty-eight, thirty-three, thirty-four, thirty-five, and thirty-six, of
township one hundred and forty-three, all in range thirty-six, situ-
ated in the district of lands subject to sale at St. Cloud and Crookston,
Minnesota, is hereby forever granted to the State of Minnesota, to be
perpetually used by said state as and for a public state park ; provided,
that the land hereby granted shall revert to the United States, together
with all improvements thereon, if at any time it shall cease to be ex-
clusively used for a public state park, or if the state shall not pass a
law or laws to protect the timber thereon.

Sec. 2. That this act shall not in any manner whatsoever interfere
with, supersede, modify, suspend, or annul the vested rights of any per-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 61

son, company or corporation in respect to any of said lands, existing
at the date of the passage of this act.
Approved Aug. 3, 1892.

AN ACT TO ACCEPT THE GRANT OF LANDS MADE TO THE
STATE OF MINNESOTA BY THE CONGRESS OF THE
UNITED STATES BY THE ACT APPROVED AUGUST THIRD,
ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND NINETY-TWO, EN-
TITLED "AN ACT TO GRANT CERTAIN PUBLIC LANDS TO
THE STATE OF MINNESOTA FOR PERPETUAL USE AS A
PUBLIC PARK," AND TO PROVIDE FOR THE PROTECTION
OF TIMBER THEREON.

Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. The state of Minnesota hereby accepts the grant of
lands, together the conditions thereof, made to it by an act of the
congress of the United States, approved August third, one thousand
eight hundred and ninety-two, entitled "An act to grant certain public
lands to the state of Minnesota for perpetual use as a public park,"
and assents to the purpose of said grant, as in said act set forth.

Sec. 2. All persons, companies and corporations are, by this act,
prohibited from cutting, destroying, mutilating or injuring any timber,
tree, or evergreen standing or growing upon any of the lands within
the limits of the Itasca state park, granted to the state of Minnesota
by the congress of the United States, as set forth in the first section of
this act. Any person who shall wilfully cut, destroy, mutilate or in-
jure, or who shall cause to be cut, destroyed, mutilated or injured, any
timber, tree or evergreen standing or growing upon any of the lands
aforesaid within the limits of said park, shall be guilty of a misde-
meanor, and, upon conviction thereof, shall be fined for the first offense
fifty dollars, for the second offense two hundred dollars, and for the
third or further offenses he shall be fined the sum of ^Ye hundred dol-
lars and imprisonment not less than ninety days or more than one year
in the county jail. All offenses charged for misdemeanors as herein-
before provided shall be tried and determined under the general laws
of this state applicable to the trial of criminal actions.

Sec. 3. The secretary of state shall file certified copies of this act,

62 ITASCA STATE PARK.

under seal, with the secretary of the interior and the commissioner of
the general land office at the city of Washington.

Sec. 4. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 19, 1893.

AN ACT TO AMEND CHAPTER FIFTY-SIX (56) OF THE GEN-
ERAL LAWS OF EIGHTEEN HUNDRED AND NINETY-ONE
(1891), ENTITLED "AN ACT TO ESTABLISH AND CREATE
A PUBLIC PARK TO BE KNOWN AND DESIGNATED AS THE
ITASCA STATE PARK, AND AUTHORIZING CONDEMNA-
TION OF LANDS FOR PARK PURPOSES. ' '
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

That chapter 56, General Laws of 1891, be amended as follows :
[Sections 1, 2 and 3 are the same as the original law.]
Sec. 4. Any person who shall wilfully cut, destroy or mutilate, or
who shall cause to be wilfully cut, destroyed or mutilated, any tree,
shrub, timber, evergreen, or plants of any kind, or who shall kill, cause
to be killed, or pursue with intent to kill, any moose, bear, deer, fox,
otter, porcupine, mink, or other wild animal in said park, or who shall
in any other manner without the consent of the person in charge, and
then only with a hook and line held in the hand, take any fish from the
waters of said park, or who shall in any manner whatsoever take or
catch any fish in the waters of said park for the markets of the state,
or who shall in any manner whatsoever raise or cause to be raised,
lower or cause to be lowered any of the lakes or streams within said
park, or the waters therein ; or who shall set, or cause to be set, any
fire therein; or who shall in any manner whatsoever at any time or
place within said park, wilfully hunt and cause to be discharged any
firearms at any animal, bird, fowl, or fish, shall be guilty of a misde-
meanor, and upon conviction thereof shall be fined for the first offense
fifty dollars ($50), for the second offense two hundred dollars ($200),
and for the third or further offenses he shall be fined and imprisoned
in the county jail not less than ninety days, nor more than one year ;
and the provisions of this section shall apply to all manner of persons,
including Indians. All offenses charged for misdemeanors, as herein-
before provided, shall be tried and determined under the General
Laws of this state applicable to the trial of criminal actions in like
causes; and whenever the commissioner or other person shall make

ITASCA STATE PARK. 6:5

complaint in writing to the district court, or a judge thereof, setting
forth that any said offenses have been committed, or are about to be
committed whereby any of the timber of said park 1ms been taken, or
is about to be destroyed in any manner, it shall be the duty of the dis-
trict judge to promptly and without delay enjoin an order of injunc-
tion against all trespassers who in any manner whatsoever destroy or
injure, or who are about to 'destroy or injure any of the timber, trees,
evergreens or shrubs within said park, belonging to or under the con-
trol of the state.

Sec. 5. The state auditor shall take proper proceedings, under
existing laws, relative to the appraisal and sale of school lands, to cause
the transfer of the school lands in said park for park purposes, and at
the sale thereof the same shall be bid in by the state for such park
purposes.

Sec. 6. The governor shall appoint a qualified resident of this
state as commissioner, who shall hold his office until removed by the
governor. The said commissioner shall file with the state auditor his
oath to support the constitution of the state, and to conscientiously
perform the duties of his office. The commissioner shall reside within
the limits of the park. The governor is hereby authorized to cause to
be erected suitable buildings for the accommodation of the park com-
missioner, at a cost not to exceed one thousand dollars ($1,000). The
park commissioner is hereby authorized to utilize a tract of land for
agricultural purposes not exceeding twenty (20) acres in area, with
the privilege of keeping not to exceed ten (10) head of stock, and the
right to use for fuel purposes any dead or down timber, and a further
right to entertain any visitors in said park at a schedule of charges to
be approved by the governor.

It shall be the duty of the park commissioner, under the direction
of the governor, to carefully guard and protect the fish, game and for-
ests of said park, and to prevent the destruction or mutilation of any
of its timber, and to preserve the park in its natural condition, and to
warn all persons against setting fires in the park. Said commissioner
shall annually on or before the first day of December of each year
report to the governor the condition of the park, amount of fines col-
lected, and number of suits instituted for violation of the park law,
together with such other information as shall be deemed of public in-
terest, or required by the governor.

Sec. 7. The attorney general is hereby authorized, when re-
quested by the governor, to take all reasonable steps to procure from
landed property owners, railroad companies, corporations, or individ-

64 ITASCA STATE PARK.

nals owning land within the limits of said park, concessions to the state
for park purposes by contract or deed, subject to the approval of the
governor. In case any tract or parcel or parcels of land within the
limits of said park cannot be satisfactorily secured, the governor may
direct the attorney general to institute for and on behalf of the state,
proceedings in condemnation, as now provided by law, for condemning
and converting private property within the limits of the state to public
use. Whenever any proceedings in condemnation are had and taken
for the condemnation and conversion of any of said lands, all of the
provisions of an act approved March 9th, eighteen hundred and sev-
enty-four (1874), entitled "An act to provide for obtaining title to
lands by the State of Minnesota for the use of the state," and all
amendments thereto, shall be applicable in all proceedings for the con-
demnation herein provided for.

Sec. 8. The compensation of said commissioner shall be six hun-
dred dollars ($600) per annum, which is hereby appropriated annu-
ally out of the state treasury, out of any moneys not otherwise appro-
priated, for the purpose of paying such commissioner. The further
sum of one thousand dollars ($1,000), or so much thereof as may be
necessary, is hereby appropriated for the purpose of erecting suitable
buildings for the accommodation of the park commissioner.

Sec. 9. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 25, 1895.

AN ACT TO FACILITATE THE PURCHASE AND CONDEMNA-
TION OF LANDS WITHIN THE LIMITS OF ITASCA STATE
PARK AND TO APPROPRIATE MONEY THEREFOR.
Whereas, with a view to preserve in its natural beauty for the
benefit of this and future generations the source of the Mississippi
river and a tract of timbered land containing thirty-five (35) square
miles surrounding the same, the legislature of this state in the year
(1891) established Itasca Park; and

Whereas, upon representation that this state would maintain in-
violate for park purposes all the land within the limits of said park;
the government of the United States, in the year eighteen hundred and
ninety-two (1892) generously granted to the State of Minnesota all that
it possessed therein, comprising about one-half the entire area; and
Whereas, during all the time since elapsed, no adequate measures

ITASCA STATE PARK. 65

have been taken to acquire the lands owned by priate parties within
the limits of said park, there still being more than eight thousand
(8,000) acres over which the state has no control; and

"Whereas, there is constant and increasing danger that these lands,
which are intricately intermingled with the rest, will be cut over by
lumbermen and denuded of their natural growth of forest, thus mar-
ring the beauty of the whole and inviting fires that would destroy every
green thing and entirely defeat the objects for which said park was
established ; therefore
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. That the sum of twenty thousand (20,000) dollars, or
so much thereof as may be found necessary, be and the same is hereby
appropriated, out of any moneys in the state treasury not otherwise
appropriated, for the purpose of carrying into effect the provisions of
section seven (7) of chapter one hundred and six (106) of the Gen-
eral Laws of eighteen hundred and ninety-live (1895), and to pay for
any and all lands, other than school lands, that may be acquired by
purchase or condemnation, according to the provisions of said chapter,
and to pay all expenses connected with such purchase and condemna-
tion.

Of the foregoing appropriation ten thousand (10,000) dollars
shall be available for the fiscal year ending July thirty-first (31st),
eighteen hundred and ninety-nine (1899), and ten thousand dollars
(10,000) for the fiscal [year] ending July thirty-first (31st), nineteen
hundred (1900).

Sec. 2. As soon as any moneys shall become available for carry-
ing out the provisions of said section seven (7) of chapter one hundred
and six (106) of the General Laws of eighteen hundred and ninety-
five (1895), the governor shall direct the attorney general to enter up-
on and prosecute proceedings for the purchase and condemnation of
such lands as are not already owned by the state within the limits of
said park as the same were established by chapter fifty-six (56) of the
General Laws of eighteen hundred and ninety-one (1891), as amended
by chapter one hundred and six (106) of the General Laws of eighteen
hundred and ninety-five (1895) ; and the attorney general shall there-
upon commence such proceedings and prosecute the same with all
reasonable diligence.

He shall first endeavor to acquire such parcels as shall seem to him
to be in most imminent danger of being denuded of timber.

Sec. 3. In case the appropriation herein made in section two (2)
for the purchase and condemnation of land shall become exhausted, or

66 ITASCA STATE PARK.

shall, in whole or in part, be unavailable when needed, and it shall
transpire that the timber is liable to be cut from any land within the
limits of said park, the attorney general shall endeavor to secure from
the owner of such land an option to purchase the same, for a term not
exceeding two years, which shall contain an agreement that the timber
thereon shall remain undisturbed during said term. He may pay for
said option, if secured, a sum not exceeding four per centum per
annum of such term upon the value of said [land] as the same may be
estimated by him.

Sec. 4. The sum of one thousand (1,000) dollars, or so much
thereof as may be found necessary, is hereby appropriated for the pur-
pose of carrying out the provisions of the preceding section.

Sec. 5. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 20th, 1899.

AN ACT TO EXTEND THE BOUNDARY LINE OP ITASCA STATE

PARK AT THE OUTLET OF ITASCA LAKE, MINNESOTA.
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section L The Itasca State Park is hereby extended so as to
fully and completely encompass and include the southwest fractional
quarter of section thirty-five, township one hundred and forty-four>
range thirty-six, containing 152.80 acres, which is situated at the outlet
of Itasca Lake, Minnesota, and said tract of land is declared to be
park property subject to the operation of all existing laws and con-
demnation proceedings.

Sec. 2. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved March 14, 1901.

AN ACT TO ACCEPT ERECTED STATIONARY PLATFORMS
CONSTRUCTED AT ITASCA STATE PARK BY THE MIS-
SISSIPPI RIVER COMMISSION, AND TO PROVIDE FOR THE
PRESERVATION AND PROTECTION THEREOF UNDER THE
GENERAL LAWS, AND APPROPRIATING MONEY THERE-
FOR.

Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. Acceptance by the state is hereby declared for all and

singular the erected stationary platforms constructed at Itasca State

ITASCA STATE PARK. 67

Park by the Mississippi River Commission during the year A. D. 1900,
and all which were donated by said commission or its field party and
delivered to the Itasca Park Commissioner for the use of the state for
permanent park purposes, and it is hereby declared that all said plat-
forms are state property for park purposes.

Sec. 2. Whoever injures, destroys, damages or attempts to in-
jure, destroy or damage any of said erected stationary platforms shall
be held liable to all the penalties provided by law for the preservation
and protection of state property, and all prosecutions under this act
shall be in the name of the state under the General Laws thereof, in
either criminal or civil prosecutions.

Sec. 3. It is hereby made the duty of the Park Commissioner for
said Itasca State Park to preserve and protect all said platforms from
fire, windstorms, trespass or damage of any kind, and said Commissioner
shall forthwith erect a stone foundation, convenient steps, galvanized
iron rope guy lines and anchors at the most elevated of said platforms,
which was erected at and stands near the north line of section thirty-
six (36), township one hundred and forty-three (143), range thirty-
six (36), in said Itasca State Park, and it is hereby made the duty of
said Park Commissioner to paint each of said platforms with pure
white lead, two full coats.

Sec. 4. To preserve, protect, anchor and paint said platforms
as provided in the preceding section, there is hereby appropriated out
of any moneys in the state treasury not otherwise appropriated, the
sum of two hundred and eighty dollars, or so much thereof as may be
necessary, which shall be expended under direction of the governor of
the state.

This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its pas-
sage.

Approved April 10, 1901.

AN ACT TO PROTECT GAME AND FISH WITHIN THE LIMITS
OF OR ADJACENT TO ANY STATE PUBLIC PARK WITHIN
THE STATE OF MINNESOTA.
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. Any person who shall kill, cause to be killed, or pursue
with intent to kill or hunt any moose, bear, deer, fox, otter, mink,
muskrat, porcupine, or other animal, or any duck, wild goose, crane,
prairie chicken, grouse, pheasant, partridge, quail, dove, pigeon, or
bird of any kind, or who shall in any manner whatsoever, except with

68 ITASCA STATE PARK.

a hook and line held in the hand, take, kill, catch or capture any bass,
pike, trout, perch or other fish within the outer limits of any territory
set apart, used or designated or authorized by law to be set apart or
purchased for a public state park, within this state or within 3,000
feet of the outward boundary lines or limits, fixed by law, of any state
park, or who shall in any manner whatsoever hunt with firearms, or
have in their possession loaded or charged firearms at any point
within 3,000 feet of the outward limits of, or proposed outward bound-
ary line or limits of any such state park within this state, shall be
guilty of a misdemeanor and upon conviction thereof shall be punished
by a fine for the first offense of fifty dollars, for the second offense two
hundred dollars, and for fche third or further offense he shall be fined
and imprisoned in the county jail not less than ninety days, nor more
than one year, and the provisions of this section shall apply to all
manner of persons, including Indians ; but this law shall not be held to
supersede, modify or amend any law or ordinance which provides for
the regulation of any public park within the limits of any incorporated
city or village within this state.

Sec. 2. All offenses provided for in section one of this act shall
be tried and determined under the General Laws of this state ap-
plicable to the trial of criminal actions in like causes.

See. 3. Any county attorney, whose official duty it is to prosecute
offenders who are charged with violating the provisions of this act,
who neglects or refuses to prosecute such offenders to a final judg-
ment, or who advises, appears for, or in any way defends, aids or
counsels persons charged with offenses under this act, shall be im-
mediately removed from office by the governor of this state.

This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its pas-
sage.

Approved April 11, 1901.

AN ACT TO APPROPRIATE MONEY TO FACILITATE THE CON-
DEMNATION AND CONVERSION OF LANDS AND PARCELS
OF REAL PROPERTY AT ITASCA STATE PARK FOR PER-
MANENT PARK PURPOSES, AS DIRECTED BY CHAPTER
303, GENERAL LAWS OF 1899.
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. To facilitate and completely accomplish the condem-
nation and conversion of lands and parcels of real property situated at
Itasca State Park, for permanent park purposes, by the Attorney Gen-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 69

eral of this state, as directed and provided by chapter 303, General
Laws of 1899, approved April 20th, 1899, there is hereby annually ap-
propriated the sum of five thousand dollars out of any money in the
state treasury not otherwise appropriated, to be expended by the
attorney general in accordance with the provisions of said chapter 303,
General Laws of 1899, and when all said lands shall have been con-
demned and converted to park purposes, the provisions of this act
shall cease and determine, and all unexpended balances shall there-
after be covered into the state treasury.

Sec. 2. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 13, 1901.

AN ACT PROVIDING FOR THE INVESTMENT OF PROCEEDS

OF THE SALE OF CERTAIN DOWN TIMBER, SITUATED IN

ITASCA STATE PARK.

"Whereas, certain down timber situated upon lands owned by the
state in Itasca Park have been sold by the state auditor, acting as state
land commissioner, by and with the approval of the governor and at-
torney general; now, therefore,
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota:

Section 1. That the proceeds of the sale made by officers of the
state of certain down timber situated upon state lands in Itasca Park,
shall be credited upon the books of the state treasurer and state auditor
to the Itasca State Park fund.

The amount of money so received may be expended under the
direction of the governor and attorney general in the construction of
a state house upon the shore of Itasca lake in said park, and in the
making of other incidental and necessary improvements.

Sec. 2. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its
passage.

Approved March 6, 1902.

AN ACT TO ADD CERTAIN LANDS TO ITASCA STATE PARK.
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota:

Section 1. The west half (w|) of the west half (w|) of the west
half (w|) of sections twenty (20), twenty-nine (29) and thirty-two
(32), of township one hundred forty-three (143), north of range

70 ITASCA STATE PARK.

thirty-five (35) west, situated in Hubbard county in the State of
Minnesota, is hereby added to and made a part of Itasea State Park.
Said tracts of land are hereby declared to be park property and sub-
ject to the operation of all existing laws applicable to said park.

Sec. 2. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 14, 1903.

AN ACT TO PREVENT TRESPASSING UPON LANDS SITUATED
WITHIN ITASCA STATE PARK, OR THE PLACING OF LOGS
OR OTHER PROPERTY, OR ANY DEBRIS WHATSOEVER,
IN ELK OR ITASCA LAKE, OR ANY OTHER WATERS SITU-
ATED IN SAID PARK.
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. The hauling or moving of any logs or timber over or
upon lands, the property of the State of Minnesota, or which have
been conditionally or otherwise granted to said state by the govern-
ment of the United States situated within the outer limits of Itasca
State Park, or the placing of any logs or timber in Elk Lake, Lake
Itasca, or any stream running into or out of either of such lakes, situ-
ated within the outer limits of said park, without first procuring a
license therefor signed by the governor, the state auditor, and the presi-
dent of the Minnesota State Historical Society, is hereby made a
felony; and the policy of the State of Minnesota to preserve for the
benefit of this and future generations, Itasea State Park surrounding
the ultimate source of the Mississippi river in a state of nature (except
as the same may have heretofore in isolated portions been disturbed),
is hereby reaffirmed.

Sec, 2. Any person violating the provisions of section one (1) of
this act, shall be punished by imprisonment in the state prison not less
than three (3) months or over one (1) year, or by a fine of not less than
one thousand ($1,000) or over five thousand ($5,000) dollars, or both
in the discretion of the court.

Sec. 3. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 18, 1903.

AN ACT TO APPROPRIATE MONEY FOR THE CONSTRUCTION
OF A STATE HOUSE IN ITASCA STATE PARK.

Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota :

Section 1. That the sum of five thousand dollars ($5,000) is

ITASCA STATE PARK.

hereby appropriated out of any money in the state treasury not other-
wise appropriated, for the purpose of building a state house in Itasca
State Park, for the accommodation of the park commissioners and
visitors.

Said amount of money may be expended under the direction of the
governor and attorney general in the construction of a state house and
necessary appurtenances, in the purchase of furnishings therefor and
the improving of the grounds, upon the shore of Itasca Lake in said
park, upon a site heretofore selected by the attorney general.

Said expenditures shall be audited by the state auditor and paid
out upon vouchers duly approved by the governor and attorney gen-
eral.

Sec. 2. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after
its passage.

Approved April 21, 1903.

THE NEW WINNEBAGOSHISH RESEKVOIR DAM.

72 ITASCA STATE PARK.

The preceding republished laws demonstrate the legal status of
Itasca State Park, but they are silent concerning most of the detail
labor which resulted in the passage of those enactments, and a remark-
able history of contentions, objections and obstructions which have
been encountered for many years as menaces to the stability, perma-
nency and value of a magnificent public resort at a beautifully wooded
and very historic Ultimate Basin.

It is here proposed to record a substantial chronologic narrative
of events which led up to and followed the passage of the law which
created a natural park at Itasca Lake.

No one will ever know the exact date when the first footprint of
man was placed on the shores of the lakes at Itasca Park.

Dakota Indians were resident there for a long period of time,
fishing, hunting and gathering wild rice and native fruits, making and
using clay vessels, flint knives and arrowpoints. After the successful
Ojibway warfare which was inaugurated at Mille Lac about 1750, all
the Dakota villagers retired from Leech, Cass, Naiwa, Tascodiac,
Bemidji and Itasca lakes. The Ojibway people were persistent in fol-
lowing up the trails and canoe routes they had captured from the
Dakotas. One of those routes led the jib ways to Itasca Lake, where
they had hunted and planted small fields nearly fifty years before
Morrison ? s time. They held possession of the locality until their title
was extinguished by the treaty of February 22, 1855, but they still con-
tinue their occasional visits to the region where they traced the foot-
prints of their predecessors at a village site, trails, mound group and
canoe landings at the north end of Itasca Lake as laid down on the
colored chart in this volume.

After Edwin S. Hall had completed the government survey of
Township 143, Range 36, Surveyor General James H. Baker named
Elk Lake to correspond with the original Ojibway name by which
Itasca Lake had been known, placing the designation on the official
plat, the Sioux name having been lost to history.

After Julius Chambers, Edwin S. Hall, Oscar E. Garrison, A. H.
Seigfried and Rev. J. A. Gilfillan had separately visited Elk Lake and
the Itasca Basin, publishing various reports of their several voyages

ITASCA STATE PARK. 73

of exploration, an insignificant and disreputable plagiarist named
Glazier camped on Schoolcraft Island, July 21st, 1881, in a starving
condition, hastily visiting Chambers Creek and Elk Lake, as laid down
on the original chart of Julius Chambers in 1872, spending perhaps
three hours in securing a hasty glance at those waters. That obscure
circumstance was clandestinely heralded to the world at large as the
only true, original and genuine discovery of the source of the Missis-
sippi. Time has justly obliterated any substantial recognition of delib-
erate fraud in the geography of the Itasca Basin and the farce has
become scarcely more than the subject of sneering jokes unworthy to
be the theme of any further notice.

In 1883 a little band of land seekers under the leadership of Peter
Turnbull joined together at Park Rapids, Minn., then a frontier town,
for the purpose of opening a wagon road to Itasca Lake. They fol-
lowed the old Hall road of 1875 to Stony Ridge, where the new road
was opened in zigzag form to the Iron Corner and Deming, Mary and
Itasca lakes. The early travelers over that hilly and crooked trail will
ever remember the tedious hardships experienced on a new wagon road
through a trackless forest when nightfall often made progress uncer-
tain, before Itasca Lake could be reached.

From 1883 to 1886, squatters on pine land claims for active lumber-
men became a menace to the future park. Not a single one of those
settlers made any permanent homes and usually before their proofs
were offered at the land office the ownership had been pledged to land
monopolists who soon became possessed of every available tract of
dense pine timber in the Itasca Basin. Not one of those so-called set-
tiers can now be found on the land they entered. Scrip entries, sol-
diers' additional homestead claims and the indemnity grant to the
Northern Pacific Railroad finally placed all the pine lands at Itasca
Lake in control of lumbermen, whose avaricious denudation of Minne-
sota forests has precipitated widespread decay and destruction by for-
est fires, closing of rivers and lakes by log booms, depletion of the
water supply and wholesale destruction of fish and game, by an over-
powerful, ever destroying, innumerable organization of human beings
who know no better than by striving to determine by whom and how

74 ITASCA STATE PARK.

soon the last tree may be cut, to throw a permanent shadow of decay-
across nature's contribution to human rights and happiness in one of
the most natural and beautiful park regions in existence. They are
seldom prosecuted for infractions of the law, because they are power-
ful financial and political actors in the drama of life, feared and catered
to by business participants and hundreds of men in official positions.

The governor, judge or prosecuting officer who make the greatest
concessions to lumbermen usually receive the highest number of their
votes at the next election. When the pine lands at Itasca Lake had
fallen into the hands of favored lumbermen, the squatters all disap-
peared after realizing seventy-five cents per thousand of timber on low
estimates of standing pine, five or six hundred dollars being an average
price for 160 acres. Then the timber cruiser was about the only indi-
vidual who could be heard of as an occasional visitor at the headwaters
of the Mississippi. One expert explorer did good work there in 1886,
known as the Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor & Co. expedition under charge
of Mr. Hopewell Clarke who, with the aid of two assistants, made a
chart of the source of the Mississippi which left Hernando de Soto and
Morrison lakes detached from Itasca Basin, an erroneous conclusion
which left out the most interesting study known to exist there at an
Ultimate Reservoir at the crest of the Morainic ridges which semi-cir-
cularly form the basin. Those deep water lakes are each more than
100 feet higher in elevation than is Itasca Lake, indicating a great
pressure of natural seepage which gives birth to thousands of springs
down the inclined inner flank of the Moraine between the sandy
beaches of Hernando de Soto Lake and the lower waters at the pit of
Itasca Basin.

October 19th, 1888, the present author with two companions, John
Leyendecker and William A. Avery, for the first time traversed the
region to the north arm of Itasca Lake, camping in an abandoned claim
shanty. In a few days it was found that Nicollet's Infant Mississippi
was the greater stream flowing into Itasca Lake, whereupon Mr. Brow-
er, of this party of visitors, commenced and concluded a minute explo-
ration of Elk Lake and its surroundings, Nicollet Lakes, Demaray,
Howard, Boutwell and Mary creeks and the Mississippi springs, fully

ITASCA STATE PARK. 75

ascertaining that Elk Lake was not the true source. A map and
printed description, erroneous in some of the unknown details concern-
ing hydrographic facts, were published and called to the attention of
the Minnesota Historical Society.

That action was the first step which inaugurated the movement re-
sulting in the final establishment of Itasca State Park.

If the Brower party of explorers had failed in their attempt in
1888, all subsequent proceedings thereunder would have been forever
unknown and unaccomplished.

The interest which proceeded from the first publication issued by
the present author, created a stir among the friends of the plagiarist
who had been inisisting that three hours spent at Elk Lake in 1881,
and a stolen page of Schoolcraft's narrative of 1834 were sufficient to
locate the source of the Mississippi whether it existed as they claimed
or otherwise.

Thereupon the Minnesota Historical Society caused to be issued
the following commission for a detailed official survey of Itasca Basin :

St. Paul, Minnesota, Feb. 12th, 1889.
To J. V. Brower, Esq., St. Paul, Minn.

Sir:— Reposing especial confidence in your ability, integrity and
good judgment, the Minnesota Historical Society together with other
similar Societies, who may unite with us for this object, does hereby
appoint and commission you to make a careful and scientific survey of
Lake Itasca and its surroundings, with the view of determining by a
thorough examination of the spot and of all its physical features, under
all circumstances, what is the true and actual source of the Mississippi
River.

We therefore request you to select such a corps of assistants as you
may need to properly carry on such survey and proceed to Lake Itasca,
prior to the opening of spring, to take the necessary observations with
the above object.

On the completion of your survey, you will please make a report to
us of the result of your investigations.

On behalf of the Minnesota Historical Society.

HENRY H. SIBLEY, President.
(Seal) J. FLETCHER WILLIAMS, Secretary.

76 ITASCA STATE PARK.

That commission was the second step taken resulting in the estab-
lishment of the state park at Itasca Lake.

There was an agreement that the recipient of that commission
should subscribe his services as a donation and it was further pro-
posed that all cash expenses should be met by a number of members of
the historical society as subscribers headed by Mr. Williams, the secre-
tary. His proposal for subscribing membership was an absolute fail-
ure and the commissioner of the society was obliged to not only donate
his own services, but was forced by circumstances over which he had
no control to pay nearly the whole cash expense of a public survey
from his own private means. The detailed survey of Itasca Basin for
the historical society was proceeded with the first of March, 1889. Mr.
Alfred J. Hill offered his assistance as a literary student at the library
at St. Paul, Minn., and the entire labor of the survey with a party of
thirteen persons was completed under embarrassing financial distress,
as it was not at any time presumed that one individual should pay all
the cost ; in fact it was a public work organized as a movement to pro-
tect the geography and nomenclature of the State of Minnesota against
the designs of a mercenary charlatan.

The entire work was assumed by two individuals, the commissioner
of the society and his assistant, Alfred J. Hill.

The completion of the survey at Itasca Lake created a chart which
has withstood the test of technical scrutiny by the scientific scholars of
two continents. The English reproduction was incorporated into the
records of the Manchester Geographical Society and the French issue
by Professor E. Levassuer was introduced into the public school sys-
tem of the French Republic with a closing debate in bulletin form, con-
vincing to all the nations of the world that Hernando de Soto and Mor-
rison lakes formed an Ultimate Reservoir with other smaller bodies of
water creating natural springs which give birth to the Mississippi River
where it is a foot wide and an inch in depth, ending for all time an
adequate conclusion acceptable and accepted by universal adoption.

The complete history of the Brower survey of the Itasca Basin and
source of the Mississippi forms the published Volume VII. Minnesota
Historical Society Collections.

The Report was made at the February, 1890, meeting of the society

ITASCA STATE PARK. 77

following which three years were occupied in perfecting the historical
and geographical studies involved, covering the entire time from the
Columbian Period to the final survey. There is no good reason for
any new preparation for the second edition of that volume as it is con-
servatively and permanently standard, inviting every test as to the
facts stated therein.

"While the 1889 survey at Itasca Lake was in process of completion,
an important circumstance occurred, influential for succeeding years,
when the late William McMullen became a permanent settler on a
homestead at the east shore of the North Arm of that lake, where he
built a log cabin which became the resort of many hundreds of travel-
ers, professional tourists, explorers, land seekers and hunters, until the
McMullen hospitality in his cabin was known in many states and East-
ern cities as the only home on the shore of the lake where the weary
traveler was ever welcome.

"While the Brower survey was under full headway at Itasca Lake,
his assistant, Mr. Alfred J. Hill, wrote and published at St. Paul, Minn.,
the following first written proposal for a state park :

Editor Dispatch : The idea for a state park located on the Missis-
sippi river between Fort Snelling and Minneapolis does not seem to
meet with universal favor, many people, doubtless, thinking such a
position to be more in the interest of certain municipalities than that
of the state at large. Why cannot we, however, have a real wild park,
one far from the hum and bustle of large cities, like the National Park
of the Yellowstone, and that once proposed, I believe, for the Adiron-
dack region in New York 1 To answer my own question, we may have
such a park if the legislature will only take the proper steps toward
it, by memorializing congress to grant all unentered lands in a certain
region and by providing for the condemnation of the rest there, the
whole to constitute a state park.

The region I refer to is the immediate basin of Lake Itasca and the
valley of the Mississippi below it for several miles including the rapids
and the falls called Kakabikons, constituting in all about 100 square
miles in area. Such a tract would combine picturesque scenery, with
interesting geographical and historical associations, and the fact of its

THE LATE WILLIAM McMULLEN.
FIRST PERMANENT PIONEER SETTLER AT ITASCA LAKE.

Distinguished as proprietor of the McMullen Kaneh where thousands of
Travelers, Tourists, Sportsmen, Cruisers, Explorers and Scientists were
welcomed and accommodated. Shot October 30, 1898, by a person named
Bust who was unsuccessfully prosecuted on a charge of murder.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 79

containing the very frequently discovered sources of the Mississippi

itself should make the park a kind of goal for the sentimental pilgrim.
# # # a

The proposal for a state park remained dormant until 1890, when
active steps were taken to that end as shown by the records as follows :

PRESERVE THE MISSISSIPPI.

A strong effort is being made in the State of New York to secure
legislative protection for the forests at the head waters of the Hudson.
This is less with the idea of gaining a splendid natural park for the
public than it is to prevent the noble stream from dwindling into an in-
significant watercourse too low for navigation at one season and a
source of danger from freshet at another. The people have made a
park of the district about Niagara Falls. The State Forestry Associa-
tion is now taking steps to secure the immunity of the Adirondacks
from the attacks of lumbermen who threaten to reduce that beautiful
country in a few years to a mere bleak expanse of barren hills. There
is in this movement, the necessity for which is admitted by every well-
informed person, a warning and a lesson for the people of Minnesota.
The importance of the Hudson to the interests of New York State or
City is as nothing compared to the importance of the Mississippi to the
State of Minnesota and the cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis. From
the water power which it furnishes have arisen the mighty industries
that make Minneapolis a center of activity. By it river steamers have
free access to the head of navigation at St. Paul. # # m

No physical fact is better established than that the regular dis-
charge of a large stream is dependent upon the husbanding of rainfall
and the preservation of the reservoir formed by nature at its sources.
The old world furnishes plenty of instances, and not a few, where the
cutting away of forests at or near a river's source have made it wholly
useless for manufacturing or commercial purposes, and turned large
tracts of country along its course into a practical desert. # * *

This country has been saved heretofore by its distance from settle-
ment and civilization, and by the existence of large Indian reservations,
whose timber-- was safe from the invasion of lumbermen. But this

80 ITASCA STATE PARK.

primeval condition is about to give place to the activity and enterprise
of man # # # If the people of this state do not take measures to
protect the Mississippi's sources it will be but a short time before our
splendid water power is crippled and the navigability of the river at
this point becomes no more than a tradition. The danger is easily
averted. In the broad and shallow lakes, the expansive forests and
the labyrinth of lagoons that constitute the Upper Mississippi region
there is ample protection for the river. The country is now practically
valueless for agricultural purposes, and the whole supply of timber
that it might furnish would not offset the damage done in a single year
by the injury that forest denudation would bring to the river and the
industries dependent upon it. We need to establish a state reservation
at the head waters of the Mississippi, to set aside all lands that may
be necessary for the purpose and to procure title to as much of the re-
cently ceded Indian territory as may be essential to the plan. A few
years hence the cost of this will be increased manyfold, the restoration
of forests will be a work requiring many years and the injury done
meantime to all our industries will be simply irreparable. There is no
subject of more importance than this to these cities, and through them
to the entire state. Public opinion should be so formed and awakened
that a reservation on the Upper Mississippi would be one of the first
cares to engage the attention of the legislature at its next session. —J.
A. Wheelock in Pioneer Press of Jan. 22, 1890.

Extract from the record of the proceedings of the Historical So-
ciety, March 10, 1890:

"Correspondence read * * * from Emil Geist, calling atten-
tion to the desirability of the state securing a reservation around the
Itasca basin, and protecting the permanency of the sources of the Mis-
sissippi by forest cultivation and preservation. Referred to the Com-
mittee on General Business, and, on motion, Professor Winchell was
added to that committee.

Mr. Geist says he transmitted the article written by Mr. Wheelock,
with the letter mentioned in these proceedings. The letter has not
been preserved, apparently, and if preserved it is mislaid. He further

ITASCA STATE PARK. 81

says the following is substantially the substance of the letter referred
to:

St. Paul Minn., Jan. 22, 1890.
To Minnesota Historical Society,

Gentlemen: Inclosed please find article as it appeared in the Pio-
neer Press, entitled ' ' Preserve the Mississippi, ' ' which speaks for itself.

Would it not be timely if the Minnesota Historical Society would
"make history," for Minnesota by turning its attention to the pres-
ervation of the forests at the head waters of the Mississippi river!

Very respectfully,

EMIL GEIST.

Professor Winchell, soon after he was designated as an additional
member of the committee, prepared for his 1889 report a valuable rec-
ommendation for this state park, and caused the same to be inserted in
his eighteenth annual report, as follows:

State Park. I wish to call the attention of the regents, and
through their report the attention of the public and the legislature to
the propriety of asking a reservation of land for a state park in some
section in the northern part of the state. The geographic position of
Minnesota is on that borderland which exhibits the transition of the
forested area into the prairie. It hence preserves the faunal and floral
characteristic of both, and within its territory must be studied by nat-
uralists the mutual modifications and interchanges which the near
neighborhood and contact of different physical features always imprint
on the native vegetation and animal life found therein. By settlement
and long habitation the natural conditions are destroyed and the nat-
ural laws that could perhaps be discovered by an examination of them
in their original state, are never known. Hence, as long as the natural
conditions exist the State of Minnesota will be visited by students and
collectors interested in natural science for the purpose of investigation,
and this will bring Minnesota into prominent recognition in scientific
literature and secondarily into scientific and economic research. It
hence behooves the state to preserve, to such extent as may be found
desirable and feasible, these natural and aboriginal conditions, and for
this purpose there is no better method than to reserve from sale and
s( ttlement some considerable tract where they may not be destroyed.

82 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Again the state should have a large public park because of the
healthful resort that it would afford for those living in cities, and for
those who, coming from further south, seek in summer the invigorating
effects of northern latitudes. The attractions of a multitude of lakes,
rivers and rivulets of limpid and pure water, are confined in the United
States, to the northern tier, where the tumuli of the glacial epoch
formed the depressions and natural reservoirs of gravel and sand, such
as mark its moraines from Maine to Minnesota. In Dakota these lines
of tumuli pass across the prairies northwestward to the line of British
America and do not return again sensibly within the United States.
Hence it is within Minnesota that exists the last opportunity to pre-
serve the pristine conditions of that unique combination of physical
and faunal relations which alike distinguishes them from all other nat-
ural surface conditions in the United States, and has attracted to them
always the venturesome, wandering explorer, the artist, the geologic,
and the hardy frontier settler.

This park should be located either in the region northeast of Lake
Superior, inclosing some of the rock-bordered and rock-bottomed lakes
that are a natural curiosity to every traveler, or in the area about the
head waters of the Mississippi. General J. H. Baker, when surveyor-
general of Minnesota, some years ago, urged that such a park be estab-
lished on the international boundary line north of Lake Superior, and
specified the region of Lake Saganaga. Since then, the region of the
Itascan sources of the Mississippi river has come into prominence, and it
has served as the topic of several explorations and new "journals,"
which have given it already a renown equal to the earlier historic
interests that cling to it since the days of Lieutenant Allen, of H. R.
Schoolcraft and Jean Nicollet. These artificial elements enter strongly
into the question of making the selection for a state park, and bear
heavily in favor of the sources of the Mississippi for such a selection.
There is, fortunately, a perfect exemplification of the natural surface
features that characterize the glacial moraines of the state within a few
miles of the Itasca lake, and, indeed, they give outline and location to
the entire Itascan basin, and would thus serve to embrace, within easy
access or in combination, both the natural and the artificial considera-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 83

tions. This region is, moreover, remote from Lake Superior, and its
attractions, by contrast with the surrounding country, would be height-
ened in the mind of every visitor, whereas, in the northeastern part of
the state, Lake Superior and its attendant waters and surrounding
hills, dominate the district, so that no selection could be made whose
attractions would rise above those of the great lake itself.

It is presumed that there would be no difficulty, whether in the
northeastern or the northwestern part of the state, or even in both, in
getting the consent and co-operation of the United States government
by the withdrawal of the lands concerned from the market, and per-
haps of any private parties who may have received some of the lands
from the United States, or from the State of Minnesota. At any rate,
no time should be lost in entering upon the project, because of changes
and increased difficulties that will render it impossible not many years
hence.— 1889 Geological Report, p. 5.

After a consideration of the proposed park a map was called for.
The first chart covered the region from Little Mantrap Lake to Kaka-
bikans Rapids. Subsequently the first formal chart reduced the pro-
posed park from an area of over one hundred sections to the smallest
possible size on account of the land holdings by lumbermen entailing
large and expensive costs. Quite elaborate reports were made on both
propositions by the present author for the use of the committee, em-
bodying many of the field notes of the Brower survey of 1889. The
documents seem to have been mislaid in the archives of the society.
The written records preserve many facts concerning proceedings re-
sulting in the first formal enactment, a curtailed abstract of which
records is here published, the mislaid original reports not having been
found :

Mr. Elfelt, from the special committee to whom was referred the
proposal of Mr. Geist that this society advocate the establishment of a
state park around the sources of the Mississippi river, reported on said
matter and inclosed a communication from J. V. Brower, giving a state-
ment regarding the lands in question and their ownership. The letter
was accompanied by a map drawn from the records at the land offices.
The matter was referred back to the committee to secure further infor-

FIRST FORMAL CHART OF ITASCA STATE PARK.

DRAWN BY J. V. BROWER, 1890.
ADOPTED BY STATUTORY ENACTMENT, APRIL 20, 1891.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 85

niation.— Extract from the record of proceedings of the Historical So-
ciety, April 14, 1890.

Mr. Elfelt said that this society was indebted to Mr. J. V. Brower
for his services in making the map of the proposed state park at Lake
Itasca, presented to the society on April 14, 1890, and that he had never
been paid for the same. He moved that a warrant for twenty-five dol-
lars be drawn on the treasurer in favor of Mr. Brower. After some de-
bate as to the proper amount to pay Mr. Brower, Mr. Langford moved
to make the sum fifty dollars, which was adopted. Mr. Elfelt also
inquired what action, if any, this society proposed to take regarding
the proposed state park. After some discussion it was, on motion of
Mr. Flandrau, agreed that the society would memorialize the legisla-
ture to take measures to establish such a state park, and the matter
was referred to the committee appointed on April 14th on the same sub-
ject.— Extract from the record of proceedings of the Historical Society,
Dec. 8, 1890.

Mr. Elfelt from the special committee on the proposed state park
submitted a report, accompanied by a statement from Mr. J. V. Brower
and a map of the proposed reservation. After some debate, the subject
was recommitted to the committee with the request that the latter take
steps to press the matter to the attention of the legislature at its present
session.— Extract from the record of proceedings of the Historical So-
ciety, Jan. 12, 1891.

Mr. Elfelt, from the special committee on the state reservation at
Itasca lake, made a report of the status of the matter and the views of
members of the legislature on the proposed measure. General Sanborn
also gave his views regarding the probability of the passage of the pro-
posed bill, and pointed out the best way of securing it. Mr. Heard
read the report of Mr. Brower, which had been offered at a previous
meeting. After some debate the subject was laid aside to be consid-
ered by the new council,

Here the old executive council of the Historical Society adjourned
sine die, and the new executive council present organized by the elec-
tion of officers.

The council then resumed the consideration of the subject of the
state park.

86 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Considerable debate ensued pro and con, with examination of the
Brower map, the state map, etc.

General Sanborn moved that the subject be referred to the same
committee as had been considering the same in the former council, and
that they be instructed to carry the project in effect in such way as they
may deem best. Adopted.— -Extract from the record of proceedings of
the Historical Society, Feb. 9, 1891.

Mr. Elfelt, from the special committee on the proposed state park
around Lake Itasca, reported that since the last meeting, General San-
born, senator from Ramsey county, had, at the request of the commit-
tee, introduced a bill into the senate, condemning lands in Beltrami
county for the state reservation. Report adopted.

In response to an inquiry made to him, Mr. Elfelt also stated that
General Sanborn had, in the above connection, also introduced a bill to
provide for the publication by the state, under the auspices of this so-
ciety, of Mr. J. V. Brower 's report of the hydro graphical survey of
Lake Itasca and its basin. —Extract from the record of proceedings of
the Historical Society, March 7, 1891.

The documentary evidences consisting of two original maps and a
lengthy written report by Mr. Brower for the use and information of
the historical society, upon which many months' consideration and
labor were expended, created the original formal basis for the state
park. The last of the two charts mentioned became the original chart
of the park as finally established. It was entirely made from the
Brower field notes and information secured from the St. Cloud and
Crookston land offices. The reason why an insignificant amount was
allowed for the difficult work performed in formulating the status
which created the true basis for a permanent and picturesque public
reservation about the flowing springs which constitute the actual
source of the Mississippi, may be understood to indicate a lack of
sufficient funds to meet the expense, the appropriation for the support
of the society being so inadequate that the labor performed and the
costs contributed became a necessary sacrifice for the purpose of pre-
venting an abandonment of the proposition to establish the park. No
person volunteered to finance the movement and there was not at any

ITASCA STATE PARK. 87

time available any sum whatsoever to meet the necessary outlay except
the small allowance mentioned and the fee paid for making an india
ink copy of the original chart herein reproduced.

It can be here stated as a fact which cannot be successfully dis-
puted, that for many years the author of this volume was compeled to
keep the park proposition alive at his own individual expense, when
tc do so was a personal sacrifice which became a menace to his estate
and peace of existence, as will be shown by the happening of events
which followed the action of the society when it necessarily concluded
to refer the matter to the state legislature. Had he then concluded to
decline to stand as the determined sponsor for the park, the project
would have been an absolute failure.

"When the determination was reached to make the question one for
action by the state legislature, the present author immediately gave the
needed time to draft a bill for the establishment of the park as a state
institution. General Sanborn introduced that bill as Senate File No.
461, March 2nd, 1891, at the request of its author,, There was then
presented to the president of the United States a formal application
for the withdrawal from entry of all government lands within the
proposed park limits, signed by Governor W. R. Merriam, General San-
born and others.

After consideration of the question of withdrawal on the part of
the federal authorities at Washington, the president, on the report of
the commissioner of the general land office, communicated by the sec-
retary of the interior, declined to withdraw the lands from entry, prin-
cipally on the ground that a portion of them had been sold and disposed
of, dismembering the area ownership which was proposed as the public
reserve.

An active canvass was necessary to pass the park bill, through the
State Senate without a single vote to spare, on account of factious
opposition led by Senator C. S. Crandall. When the bill finally passed
the Senate, April 4th, 1891, its friends were all urgent in securing a
constitutional majority vote of the whole senate, but at so late a date
in the session, that there was but little hope to secure its passage

88 ITASCA STATE PARK.

through the house then in the throes of turmoil at closing scenes of
an active session.

One senator offered an admendment providing that the pay of the
commissioner should cease at the end of sixty days. John B. Sanborn
accepted the amendment and it was understood to mean the death of
the park law, as the labor required for success could not be perfected
short of several years' attentive work.

Could any man be found who would perform the various duties
imposed by the law, for sixty days' salary and no allowance for ex-
penses ? The opponents of the bill were jubilant when the amendment
intended as a death blow was adopted.

There was barely one chance for success ! The rules of the house
must be suspended in order to reach a vote on the final passage of
Senate File 461, the park bill. By a fortunate circumstance the mem-
bers of the house voted to permit each representative to call up one
bill for passage. Hon. Thomas R. Foley, of Aitkin County, by close
attention to the business of the session had become an influential and
leading member on matters of legislation. The author of this volume
made a personal appeal, urgently requesting Mr. Foley to champion
the passage of the bill through the house. With a distinguished
presence he called the bill up on the 17th of April, out of its regular
order where it was awaiting action with hundreds of other measures,
pleading with members to pass the bill as a wise and conservative prop-
osition to preserve Itasca Lake, as a public resort. The bill was read
the third time and passed by a vote of fifty-nine ayes and two nays.
When it is understood that any objection would have prevented the
passage of the act, it can be stated that the high esteem in which Mr.
Foley was held by his associates was the real reason why no objection
was offered. The personal friendship which had been firmly establish-
ed between Messrs. Foley and Brower, created the opportunity which
made it a possibility for the latter to appeal for aid in favor of the
passage of the law, and Mr. Foley graciously consented to urge the final
step which made the movement for a park successful. Thereupon
the act was enrolled and submitted to the governor for his approval.
An unfortunate circumstance soon occurred which threatened the park

ITASCA STATE PARK. 89

bill. Deeply grieved, Mr. Foley stated that a senator directly in-
teiested in that measure, had broken his promise to support a tax bill,
in which Aitkin and other Counties of Mr. Foley's district had an
absorbing interest Thereupon he prepared a resolution directing the
governor to return to the house Senate File 461, the Itasca State Park
law, as a matter of self-protection for the people of his district, con-
tradistinguished from the action of the senator who had violated his
pledge to aid Mr. Foley's district. The threatened safety of the bill
was an unfortunate condition. Mr. Foley was determined, awaiting
only an opportunity to offer his resolution to recall the bill from the
governor for reconsideration. No one could blame Mr. Foley for pro-
tecting the interests of his eonstitutents, but the long contest for a
public state park with a visible promise of success, was too precious
in its results to be now ended in defeat. A very hasty interview be-
tween two individuals— Tarns Bixby, private secretary to Governor
Merriam and J. Y. Brower, was thereupon held when explanations were
made of the proposed recall of the park measure. Mr. Bixby consent-
ed to request the governor to approve the act. Thereupon the bill
was immediately approved and signed, placing it beyond recall as an
enacted, law, subject only to amendment or repeal. No one will ever
fully realize how necessarily strenuous were the exertions which finally
resulted in establishing Itasca State Park, April 20th, 1891.

Those exertions had thereupon only been fairly initiated, for no
measure was ever more unreasonably harassed and opposed than has
been the park law which required such sacrifice of time and energy
with no hope of reward, to place it as a statute in the laws of Minne-
sota and press its provisions to a hopeful status for final success.

On the fourteenth day after the passage and approval of the park
law, the governor issued the following commission :

STATE OF MINNESOTA,
Executive Department.
William R. Merriam, Governor of said State, to J. V. Brower of Ramsey
County, sends greeting :

Reposing especial trust and confidence in your prudence, integrity
and ability, I have appointed you, the said J. V. Brower, as commis-

90 ITASCA STATE PARK.

sioner of the Itasca State Park, pursuant to an act of the legislature
of this state, approved April 20, 1891.

You are therefore by these presents appointed and commissioned
commissioner of the Itasca State Park, as aforesaid, to have and to hold
the said office, together with all the rights, powers and emoluments to
the said office belonging or by law in anywise appertaining, until this
commission shall be by me or other lawful authority superseded or an-
nulled, or expire by force or reason of any law of this state.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my name and caused the
great seal of the State of Minnesota to be affixed at the capitol, in the
city of St. Paul, this fourth day of May, in the year of our Lord one
thousand eight hundred and ninety-one and of the state the thirty-
third.

By the Governor,

WILLIAM R. MERRIAM.

(L. S.)
F. P. BROWN,

Secretary of State.

At the date of the foregoing commission Itasca State Park, in the
absence of a single acre of park land or cent of money in its fund, can
be said to have been purely and simply a park on paper. Its status
was made up from a law secured by patient toil and an enthusiastic
commissioner eager for success.

Consultation with the state auditor, who was legally charged with
the general care and supervision of the park, was the first action taken
under the new law. That officer refused positively to perform any act
whatsoever to encourage the commissioner, who was thence obliged to
proceed without his aid or advice. The Biermann brothers, auditor of
state and deputy, were too busy with their own personal interests to be
harassed with any state park proposition. Thenceforward, while they
continued in office, all official relations between them and the park com-
missioner came to an abrupt terminus. They were not a necessity for
success nor did their discourteous refusal to co-operate with the com-
missioner have the slightest influence, in delaying the work. For the
best of reasons one term in the state auditor's office ended their public
career forever. They refused to use any contingent fund to pay neces-
sary expenses, the park law itself carrying no appropriation. There-

ITASCA STATE PARK.

upon the park commissioner was compeled to pay all costs from
his own private and limited means. That fact did not stop the work
for success a single moment of time.

The next urgent necessity was the inauguration of a movement to
secure by public grant the government lands situated within the park
area. All available proceedings were taken for a final donation of the
remaining public lands, as thereon rested the only possible opportu-
nity for a successful outcome. In the absence of a public grant of gov-
ernment lands for the park, its establishment could not be effected,
consequently the endeavors to secure the grant were characterized by
energetic and strenuous efforts too numerous to describe at this time.

McMULLEN'S LOG CABIN.

REAR AND FRONT VIEW.

The inestimable co-operation of Hon. Alexander Ramsey, Governor
William R. Merriam, and other members of the historical society, gave
weight and strength to the movements of the commissioner to secure
the grant. Hon. J. N. Castle, member of congress from the St. Paul,
Minnesota, district, took charge of the question in congress, presenting
our petitions and introducing the bill forwarded by the commissioner.
A senator of the United States from Minnesota objected to the estab-
lishment of the park, characterizing it as a "humbug." Telegrams
and letters were promptly forwarded to him signed by Hon. Alexander
Ramsey and other leading citizens requesting a cessation of his opposi-
tion, and nothing more was heard from his action. With tact and
energy Hon. J. N. Castle pushed the bill through congress, and it was

92 ITASCA STATE PARK.

approved August 3, 1892, in a somewhat modified form from the orig-
inal draft, reserving to the United States the right to declare a forfeit-
ure of the grant "if at any time it shall cease to be exclusively used
for a public state park, or if the state shall not pass a law or laws to
protect the timber thereon."

The following communication from the governor addressed to the
park commissioner, caused the first official report to be issued :

THE LETTER.

STATE OF MINNESOTA,
Executive Department,
St. Paul, Aug. 3, 1891.
Hon. J. V. Brower, Commissioner of the Itasca State Park, 460 Jackson
Street, City,

Sir: Publications in the papers of the state have been made
within a few days past regarding the reputed discovery by a citizen of
the State of New York of a new source of the Mississippi river, which
he claims to have made in 1881, and has since widely published his
right to be considered as its original discoverer, and causes changes to
be made in the maps of our state in support of such discovery.

My attention has been called to these statements by citizens inter-
ested in the truth and correctness of the geography of our state, and it
is desirable to have some definite and correct statement officially made
as to the hydrographic and other features of the Itasca basin, author-
ized by law to be set apart as a public state park, gained from a thor-
ough physical knowledge of the same, to the end that facts regarding
the ultimate source of the Mississippi river may be established and
published for the benefit of the people of this state. I therefore re-
quest you to report to this department any facts in your possession
which may be deemed pertinent to this question which has come to
your knowledge as commissioner or otherwise.

Yours respectfully,

WILLIAM R. MERRIAM,

Governor.

THE COMMISSIONER'S REPORT.

STATE OF MINNESOTA,
Itasca State Park Commissioner's Office,
St. Paul, Aug. 13, 1891.
His Excellency, William R. Merriam, Governor of Minnesota,

Sir: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your favor

ITASCA STATE PARK. 93

of the third instant, requesting me to report to your department any
facts in my possession, as commissioner of the Itasca State Park, or oth-
erwise, descriptive of the hydrographic and other features of the Itasca
basin, authorized by law to be set apart as a public park, to the end
that facts regarding the ultimate source of the Mississippi river may be
established and published.

During the year 1889, as a special commissioner of the Minnesota
Historical Society, a co-ordinate branch of the state government, I
made a detailed hydrographic survey of the source of our great river,
and formulated an exhaustive report thereon, which has not as yet
been published.

Prom the field notes then taken, the correspondence, and all exam-
inations and researches made, I have the honor to report the following
facts for the use of the executive department of Minnesota.

The drainage basin of the Mississippi river extends from the Gulf
of Mexico, at the mouth of the river, to an ultimate limit above and
beyond Itasca lake in this State. This great basin, more than 1,000,000
square miles in extent, is bordered on the east by the Alleghany and
other ranges, and on the west by the Rocky Mountains, and contains
about 100,000 rivers and streams, which flow toward and finally dis-
charge their waters into the Mississippi, principally through the mouths
of the larger and more important confluent and affluent tributary
rivers. These waters are entirely supplied by the copious precipita-
tion charactersitic of the fertile basin drained from north to south by
the Mississippi, as its principal and most important river.

To follow the proper rule in ascertaining, under commission, the
true and actual source of this principal river, for geographic purposes,
I consulted European and American geographers, scientists and author-
ities, gaining the following varied information as to what constituted
the source of a river:

"That the main stream of a river is that which flows along the
lowest depression of the basin, and that a tributary which descends into
it from a higher elevation even if longer is not to be considered the
main stream."

"A river cannot have a source, but many sources."

"All our rivers have their sources in the clouds."

(This authority does not say that the clouds emanate from the
oceans of the earth, or whence came the oceans.)

"The head of the longest continuous channel."

"The sources of a river which are in a right line with its mouth,

94 ITASCA STATE PARK.

particularly when they issue from a cardinal point and flow to the one
directly opposite. ' '

Other authorities, some remote, and but a few reliable, suggest
that the source must be a lake; must be the largest lake; should be the
inner flanks of the heights of the land surrounding it; should be the
source, because it was next to the historic pass, by which one river had,
from ancient times, been left to reach another ; because it was farthest
from the mouth of the system ; because it led down to the axis of the
general valley of the basin ; because it was at the head of the stream
of largest volume ; because it was geologically oldest, etc.

This widespread variance of authorities, good, bad and indifferent,
gave me but little comfort in an interesting geographic and historic re-
search, the source of no two principal rivers of the world being alike,
and I arbitrarily adopted a reliable rule of no uncertainty, a rule of na-
ture, in ascertaining where the waters were gathered which form the
ultimate source of the Mississippi, and for that purpose the length of
the main river in statute miles up through the valley of the basin, was
ascertained from the official records of the United States government
and otherwise, with the following result :

Miles.
From Gulf of Mexico, at the southwest pass, up the channel

of the river to the city of New Orleans 111.00

From city of New Orleans to mouth of Ohio river . 965.50

From mouth of Ohio river to city of St. Louis 182.00

From city of St. Louis to city of St. Paul 728.75

From city of St. Paul to falls of St. Anthony 13.00

From falls of St. Anthony to Winnibigoshish lake 432 . 50

From Winnibigoshish to range 36 west of fifth principal meri-
dian 96.50

From range 36 west of fifth principal meridian to foot of Itasca

lake 17.27

Total 2,546.52

Thus it appeared that the main river of the Mississippi basin ex-
tends from the Gulf of Mexico to the Itasca basin, a limited, permanent
depression upon the surface of the earth at the ultimate source of the
river. .

The geologic and natural features predicating this conclusion are
so well known and established that no reference to them seems neces-
sary in this communication, excepting the possibility that the Missouri
river, remotely suggested by occasional inquirers, might be called the

ITASCA STATE PARK. 95

main river ; but inasmuch as it is a confluent branch of the main stream,
coming in at one side, similar to the Ohio and Red rivers, I see no good
reason for discussing that question at this time, nor do I deem it neces-
sary to follow the historic data, however interesting, which has brought
to our notice and knowledge the existence of the main river extending
from the Gulf to the Itasca basin, where it takes its rise, for there can
be no well-founded disagreement as to that fact, because the discovery
of the Mississippi, by piecemeal, is co-extensive with the discovery of
the coast line of North America, and the facts are indisputable, in con-
sequence of which I must base my reply to your executive communica-
tion upon the facts as they have been found to exist at and above Itasca
lake, which has been for so many years recognized as the true source.
To definitely determine those facts it became my official duty to ascer-
tain whence came the waters of Itasca lake. This required a line of
levels in the field with the following results, to ascertain elevations
above the sea :

Feet.

Gulf of Mexico , 0.0

City of St. Louis, above the sea 384.8

City of St Paul 680.5

Above Falls of St. Anthony (Minneapolis) 782.0

Below Pokegama Falls 1,284.0

Winnibigoshish lake 1,292. 8

Cass lake 1,302 . 8

Itasca lake 1,457 .

The official reports of the United States government give the ele-
vations to and including Cass lake, and an actual line of levels across
the country from the railroad system of this state to Itasca lake, run
by me in 1889, demonstrated its actual elevation above the sea at its
outlet. The railway levels connect with the government levels.

"With the distances and elevations thus ascertained, my survey of
the ultimate source of the Mississippi river commenced in March, 1889,
upon the frozen surface of Itasca lake, at the centre of the channel of
the river, at its debouchure, from the extreme north end of the lake.

At a remote age the Itasca basin was the bed of one lake, now
extinct, which I deem it a privilege to designate as Lake Upham
[changed to Winchell to correct an error] , and from this one lake, of
unknown ages, by erosion, the waters probably having been increased
by copious precipitation, cut their way through the ice formation and
alluvial stratum to a natural condition of the river bed, as it now
exists, immediately below Itasca lake. This process of nature, the

96 ITASCA STATE PARK.

waters passing to lower levels, has given us nearly one hundred lakes
and lakelets within the Itasca basin, systematically divided apart, each
of a different elevation, up the inner flanks of the Hauteur de Terre,
surrounding the whole, from the summits of which the waters are re-
turned to the oceans, through Hudson's bay and the Gulf of Mexico,
the Itasca basin itself being about seven miles long and five in width,
and subsidiary to the main basin of the Mississippi.

The formation of Itasca lake is a small body of water at and
around Schoolcraft Island, and three long, narrow arms projecting—
one to the southeast, one to the southwest and one to the north— from
the last of which the Mississippi passes out from the lake. From the
southeast and southwest extremeties of the lake, picturesque valleys
extend, denominated Mary Valley and Nicollet Valley, respectively,
and up these valleys numerous lakes exist, each at a higher elevation as
you pass up the respective valleys than the one below, and each valley
is drained by a running stream of perennial flowage, while at the side
of the west arm Elk lake is situated, connected with Itasca by Cham-
bers creek.

Lines of measurements and of levels were run to and up through
each of these localities.

The distances are as follows :

Feet.
From the outlet of Itasca to the extreme southeast point at the

mouth of Mary creek ". .'» 22,639

Up the channel of Mary creek to Mary lake 3,658

Total 26,297

From the outlet of Itasca to the extreme southwest point at

the mouth of Nicollet's Infant Mississippi 17,926

Thence up the channel to Nicollet's Middle lake 8,513

Total 26,439

From the outlet of Itasca to the mouth of Boutweli creek. . 13,627
Length of Boutweli creek 8,700

Total 22,327

From the outlet of Itasca to the mouth of Elk creek 16,727

Up the channel of Chambers creek to Elk lake 1,100

Total 17,827

ITASCA STATE PARK. 97

These are the only streams entering Itasca lake worthy of any
consideration. The volume of water, width, depth, and flowage of
these several streams was carefully ascertained, and the largest and
most important one, at all times they have been examined by me, in
1888, 1889 and 1891, Nicollet's Infant Mississippi river, has been found
to be the largest in volume of water and the larger and more important
in every particular, with several perennial branches augmenting its
prominence above the southwest limit of Itasca lake where it dis-
charges its waters into the lowest in point of elevation of the several
lakes there situated.

Selecting Mary Valley and Nicollet Valley as the two most remote
water sheds within the Mississippi basin, the ordinary rules of hydrog-
raphy were applied, and it was found that Mary Valley contained the
Lesser Ultimate Reservoir and Nicollet Valley the Greater Ultimate
Reservoir of the Mississippi system, each separate and distinct, drained
by natural surface flowage. Then came the application of nature's
common rule as to whence came the waters supplying the streams drain-
ing these two ultimate water systems at the source of the Mississippi.

It having been found that Nicollet Valley contained the more im-
portant reservoir, supplying to Itasca lake the larger and the longer
volume of surface flowage, I beg your indulgence in a minute descrip-
tion of this most remote and ultimate system in the great Mississippi
basin, situated within the State park.

The perennial stream flowing down the inner flanks of the Hauteur
de Terre to Itasca through Nicollet Valley was discovered by Jean N.
Nicollet in 1836. At the point where its waters flow into Itasca lake it
was forty feet in width and two feet in depth at the date of my survey.
Narrowing as you ascend the stream, it becomes three feet in depth a
short distance from Itasca lake, with an increased current.

Passing up this interesting stream the explorer is impressed with
its importance by its sharply defined banks, with its winding, meander-
ing channel, deeply cut down into the stratum to a sandy, gravelly bed,
w T ith every appearance and characteristic of the Mississippi below
Itasca lake. It has sandbars, sharp angles in its channel, deep and
shallowing currents, and all the more striking features of a larger river.
Large trees found near its banks incline toward the stream ; a variety
of fish, large and small, were found in its waters ; the mink, otter and
muskrat abounded, and wild ducks of many Northern varieties were
from time to time noticed in its channel. Trees have been felled in sev-
eral places across its banks to permit of passage on foot. Upon the

DETAILED HYDE0GRAFM1C CHAHT;^
ULTIMATE SOURCE

MISSISSIPPI RIVER j'il X

GREATLY REDUCED FROM THE ORIGINAL.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 99

removal of these trees, canoes might be propelled nearly two miles up
this principal channel from Itasca lake.

These are a portion of the characteristics of the stream, indicat-
ing its permanency and importance, and, what is true of no other
stream within the state park, it has three affluent branches flowing in
from the heights of land to the westward, which augment its impor-
tance and permanency above any other stream found there.

These are Demaray creek, over one mile in length, Howard creek
nearly one mile in length, and Spring Ridge creek, each fed by numer-
ous springs, sharply indicating artesian pressure from the lakes higher
up the flank of the Itasca morain. At Nicollet's middle lake is found
the northern limit of the Greater Ultimate Reservoir, with the Missis-
sippi river flowing out from it toward Itasca lake.

My lines of level and measurements were continued from this point
up through the trough of the reservoir to Nicollet's upper lake of
doubtful existence, to the Mississippi Springs, Floating Moss lake,
Whipple lake, the Triplet lakes, Morrison lake and Hernando De Soto
lake, the last named being the most elevated and distant water from the
Gulf of Mexico within the Mississippi basin, exclusive of waters ema-
nating from the summit of the Rocky Mountains at the source of the
Missouri.

Elevations above the sea at the Greater Ultimate Reservoir are as
follows :

Feet.

Nicollet's lower lake 1,473

Nicollet's midddle lake 1,474

Nicollet's upper lake 1,509

Mississippi Springs 1,548

Floating Moss lake 1,561

"Whipple lake 1,564

The Triplet lakes 1,568

Morrison lake 1,571

Hernando De Soto lake 1,571

Summits of Hauteur de Terre 1,670

The summits of Hauteur de Terre (heights of land), immediately
west of Hernando De Soto lake, divide the ultimate waters of the Mis-
sissippi from those of the Red River of the North.

The first surface flowage in the Greater Ultimate Reservoir is a
tiny brook connecting Whipple lake with Floating Moss lake. Down
the incline from Floating Moss lake the Mississippi Springs sends forth

100 ITASCA STATE PARK.

a surface channel to Nicollet's upper lake, while three hundred feet
west and twenty feet lower the channel again appears in a continuous
surface flowage to Itasca lake, which is 9,200 feet to the north. It
might be well to mention the fact that the head of Howard creek, a
small picturesque little stream with several miniature waterfalls, in
connection with the Infant Mississippi, constitutes the longest surface
channel shown, as follows:

Feet. Miles.

Gulf of Mexico to Itasca lake 2,546.52

Thence to the mouth of Nicollet's Infant Mississippi 17,926
Thence to head of Howard creek 11,126

29,052 5.50

From Gulf to head of Howard creek 2,552.02

Other channel distances are :

From Gulf to head of Mary creek 2,551 . 50

From Gulf to head of Boutwell creek 2,550.74

From Gulf to Elk lake 2,549.90

From Gulf to extreme limit of the Greater Ultimate Reservoir

it is '. 2,555.25

From Gulf to the extreme limit of the Lesser Ultimate Res-
ervoir it is 2,553.47

The great river having now been actually measured in its entire
channel length by connecting surveys, the distances given, for the first
time, are certainly more accurate than mere guess work.

Since the Greater Ultimate Reservoir is the extreme limit of the
Mississippi basin, and the largest, longest and most important stream
above Itasca lake, takes its rise therein as a perennial surface drainage,
I have reported the same to the Historical Society as the ultimate source
of the Mississippi.

ELK LAKE AND ITS DISCOVERY.

In 1836 the Scientist and Astronomer, Nicollet, laid down Elk lake
as an estuary of Itasca, but since that time the alluvial stratum at the
outlet of Itasca has been diminished by the constant flow of the water
current until the latter lake has receded from the former to a lower
level, and the two lakes are now connected by a short creek. The orig-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 101

inal discovery of this creek and of Elk lake must be awarded to Julius
Chambers, who on the ninth of June, 1872, while encamped on School-
craft Island, explored the shores of Itasca, passed up the channel of
Chambers creek in his canoe to Elk lake, crossed to the southern shore
of the lake, and, making a map of the lake, wrote :

"Here, then, is the source of the longest river in the world in a
small lake, scarcely a quarter of a mile in diameter, in the midst of a
floating bog, the fountains which give birth to the Mississippi." He
found the lake much larger than he at first supposed. The world was
notified by Mr. Chambers of his discovery in the columns of the New
York Herald, page 8, July 6, 1872.

Mr. Chambers then passed down the Mississippi, from Schoolcraft
Island to the Gulf of Mexico, in his canoe.

The next explorer to declare Elk lake the source was A. H. Sieg-
fried, who, on the 13th day of July, 1879, reached the lake, and, taking
a photograph of the same, declared it to be the "highest tributary to
the Mississippi, " in the columns of the Louisville Courier Journal, Aug-
ust, 1879.

The lake and creek were also visited in 1875 by Edwin S. Hall, in

1880 by 0. E. Garrison, and in 1881 by Rev. J. A. Qilfillan. Whatever
significance may attach to Elk lake as the source, Mr. Chambers must be
awarded the honor of a first and original discovery, to the exclusion of
all others, except Indians, known in our history, and the name "Elk,"
officially promulgated by the authorities of the United States, is the
proper and legitimate name for this body of water, acquiesced in by
legislative enactment, and Chambers creek takes its name from its
discoverer. No one of the several brooks flowing into Elk lake are of
any great importance, and all of them were completely closed with ice
in March, 1889, and all of them were dry in August of the same year.

Geographic discoveries at and above Itasca lake prior to my sur-
vey in 1889, of authentic record, worthy of consideration and belief, are
as follows :

William Morrison, first of white men 1803

II. E. Schoolcraft, Itasca lake 1832

Jean N. Nicollet, Five Inlets 1836

Julius Chambers, *Elk lake and creek 1872

E. S. Hall, government survey 1875

Hopewell Clark, special survey 1886

( # Elk lake and creek, discovered by Mr. Chambers in 1872, are
constituted of waters erroneously claimed to have been discovered in

1881 by the person referred to in your communication.)

NICOLLET'S INFANT MISSISSIPPI.

NICOLLET VALLEY,
ITASCA STATE PARK.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 103

Itasca lake is at the lowest depression of the basin and Hernando
de Soto, Morrison and numerous other lakes are at the summit of the
basin, and the water pressure from the lakes above Itasca, the whole
being exclusively supplied by precipitation, causes a contributory in-
flow into Itasca lake, which is increased or decreased from time to time,
according to the quantity of rainfall or duration of drought, as either
may prevail.

One peculiar significance is demonstrated by the fact that Itasca
lake has a flood plain of but little more than three feet in elevation
above the natural surface of the lake. The flood plains of the lakes
higher up are ten, fifteen and twenty feet. Thus, while Itasca lake is
always supplied and sometimes rises during dry weather, the lakes at
the summit dry down rapidly to a lesser surface area, depending upon
rainfall to resupply them. During the summer of 1890, copious rain-
fall caused Lake Itasca to rise a foot or more above Elk lake, and
Chambers creek flowed into, instead of out from, Elk lake. The out-
flow of Lake Pepin, through which the Mississippi takes its course, is
controlled by the inflow, and Lake Itasca presents a striking similarity.

Infinitesimal deductions are necessarily drawn, however, from as-
certained facts in order to discover the location of the ultimate source.
Itasca lake lies at the pit of the basin and receives the waters dis-
charged into it from summits surrounding it, which in return pass out
into the channel below, forming the main water course of our country,
to the Gulf. Consequent inferences may therefore be drawn by those
who still believe that Itasca lake is the source of the river, it being sit-
uated at the pit of the lowest depression of the limited Itasca basin,
but I know it to be a fact that there is a Greater Ultimate Reservoir
there at the summit, and it constitutes the ultimate source.

To prevent unauthorized, erroneous and deceptive changes in our
state map, I suggest that a resume of the historical and geographical
facts which led up to the final determination to locate the state park at
the source of our great river* be included in my forthcoming report, and
then, by legislative enactment, prohibit, within our own state, the illicit
changes in the state map so assiduously persisted in from mercenary
motiTes.

The law requires me to report a detailed chart of the park, and
topographic field notes for that purpose will be completed in due time.
Very respectfully your obedient servant,

J. V. BROWER,

Park Commissioner.

VIEWS AT ITASCA STATE PARK.

CEDAR FOREST.

MARY LAKE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 105

Active steps were taken to perfect an abstract of title of the whole
area of the park to indicate and ascertain who were the several owners
of pine lands within the outer limits of the reservation. Many other
proceedings were had and taken so numerous and varied that they
cannot be stated in detail, some of which may be referred to as follows :
Land grant from the Northern Pacific Railroad Company by
formal approved contract through the courtesy of Hon. Thomas F.
Oakes, president of the company, 2,252.96 acres at fifty cents per acre.
Land grant from the Little Falls & Dakota Railroad Company,
200 acres at one dollar per acre.

Conferences with Hon. John S. Pillsbury and Hon. Charles A.
Pillsbury at their offices at Minneapolis, Minn., when they declined,
absolutely, to make any concession for park purposes of any portion
of the large tracts of land they had acquired at Itasca Basin, requiring
that the State shall pay the full value of the property. No agreement
could be perfected as to the true value or the price.

Conference with Mr. T. B. Walker, who was the owner of large
tracts of pine land within the park limits. He also refused to make
any concession for park purposes whatsoever, demanding his own
price on his own estimates of value.

Conferences with Frederick Weyerhauser and others, officers of
the Pine Tree Lumber Company. No concession could be secured for
park purposes, William Sauntry for the company demanding as a
prerequisite that the highest cash price be paid for the tract of
3,191.90 acres held by that company at an average rate of seventeen
dollars per acre. The commissioner did not have at his disposal any
fund whatsoever, in consequence of which the negotiations came to an
end. That company purchased their lands from the Northern Pacific
Railroad Company at two dollars per thousand feet for white pine,
nothing for Norway pine, and the land paid for with depreciated
preferred stock at the cost of about one dollar per acre in actual cash
payments. The negotiations for the park with this lumber company
continued for a long period of time with rather vague promises of
success. When the application for the lands as a donation for park
purposes at cost was turned down by Mr. Sauntry for the Pine Tree

WHITE BIRCH THICKET.

SHORE OF ELK LAKE,
ITASCA STATE PARK.

BIRCH AND BALSAM THICKET.

SHORE OF ELK LAKE,
ITASCA STATE PARK.

108 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Company, he perfected his demands with an energetic and thrifty
ultimatum entirely characteristic of a successful lumberman, and
every hope for a Weyerhauser donation to the park vanished forever.

A topographic survey of the park area was proceeded with in
order to comply with the requirement of the park law for the perfec-
tion of a park chart. That provision of the law was fully complied
with by the commissioner. The chart reported to the governor was
widely circulated all over the world, a reduced copy of which, with
additions to the park in color, has been prepared for issue with this
volume. The topographic survey was perfected during the years 1891
and 1892, and the chart was published in 1893.

Brook trout were propagated in several streams of the park in
3891 by the commissioner in person.

Volume VII, Minnesota Historical Society Collections, descriptive
of historic, hydrographic and topographic facts connected with Itasca
Lake and the park, was proceeded with, perfected, and published by
the State for the Society under direction and authorship of the com-
missioner of the park, while laboring without compensation or allow-
ance for expenses. That volume wass one of the necessary requisites
for the successful formation and establishment of the park. The fore-
going fails to indicate the tremendous amount of labor performed to
secure the results obtained. Also there are omitted all personal ref-
erences concerning the trials, disappointments and extreme hardships
and privations encountered and suffered by the commissioner while
the park was undergoing its formative period. No one will ever
know that complete tale of woe and tribulation.

On the 8th day of December, 1892, the second report of the park
commissioner was made to the governor, as follows :

STATE OF MINNESOTA.

ITASCA STATE PARE.

Commissioner's Office,
St. Paul, December 8th, 1892.
To His Excellency, William R. Merriam, Governor of the State of
Minnesota :

Sir:— I have the honor to transmit my report, pursuant to section
8, chapter 56, General Laws of 1891.

My official duties commenced on the 9th day of May, 1891, and

ITASCA STATE PARK. 109

under the law have not as yet come to a final conclusion. A proviso
to section 7 of the Itasca State Park law limits the time of compensation
for the performance of these duties to sixty days. Having found that
it was a physical impossibility to make a detailed chart of the park,
to examine the titles of record in the different offices of the registers
of deeds in Hubbard, Becker and Beltrami counties, and to procure for
the State 19,701.69 acres of land, the area covered by the park limits
within the time contemplated, I concluded to disregard the proviso,
and perform all of the official duties required of me, without com-
pensation for per diem and expenses, trusting that the State would
eventually compensate me for labor performed and expenses incurred.
It was the only expedient possible for a successful termination of the
provisions of the law. Had any other conclusion prevailed, the park
law, for the present at least, would have been inoperative, the State
auditor having declined to audit any of the accounts of this office.

Titles Examined.

The records of the office of the register of deeds for the counties
of Becker, Hubbard and Beltrami were carefully examined to ascertain
the condition of titles and the names of the owners of the lands within
the park limits, and, with the exception of about eight hundred acres
in Hubbard county, the titles of private owners appear to be perfect.
I have noted down in writing all the conditions of the several titles
up to and including the dates of the examination.

The Detailed Chart of the Park.

There is herewith transmitted a detailed chart showing all the
physical features of the park, which surround the ultimate source of
the Mississippi, at the utmost limit of the basin of the river. I have
exercised great care in the construction of this chart, by personally
surveying and examining each quarter section of land in detail, with
the exception of a small tract in the northwest corner. In 1889, 1890
and 1891 I made a detailed hydrographie survey of the locality for
the State Historical Society, and the field notes then reduced, coupled
with the field notes taken for the State, have been used in the accurate
composition of this final chart, which I trust will serve all necessary
purposes for many years to come, and until the State by enactment
chooses to have made an accurate contour map of the premises. In
order to determine actual elevations above the sea level, I ran a line
from the end of the railroad track at Park Rapids to the surface of the

VIEWS AT GARRISON POINT, ITASCA LAKE.

EXTREMITY OF WEST ARM.

DENSE FOREST SCENE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. Ill

water at Itasca lake and thence to other portions of the park, and
I have also ascertained the exact length of the Mississippi and the
distances from the State Capitol, from Lake Superior, from the north,
west and south boundaries of the State to the State Park. These dis-
tances are as follows:

Distance from the State Capitol, overland 240 miles

Distance from the State Capitol, by channel of the Mississippi.560 miles

Distance from Lake Superior 150 miles

Distance from north boundary of State 125 miles

Distance from west boundary of State 75 miles

Distance from south boundary of State 252 miles

The Government Grant of Lands.

The vacant government land within the park limits amounted to
nearly seven thousand acres and it became a difficult undertaking to
secure these lands to the State, in view of the fact, to secure grants
of land from the United States at this time, for any purpose, is no easy
task. Every attention possible was given towards securing these
vacant lands to the State, and with the very able assistance of Hon.
J. N. Castle, of Stillwater, Minn., a member of congress, the grant to
the State became a law on the 3d of August, 1892, securing to the
State forever the use of these lands for park purposes, conditioned
only that the timber shall be protected by law. These lands which
come to the State under this grant are particularly valuable for park
purposes. They are principally timbered lands and give a lake front-
age of ten miles about Itasca, Elk and Morrison lakes. Many of the
most picturesque scenes in the Itasca Basin are situated within this
government grant.

Appended will be found a history of the grant and a copy of the
United States statutes covering the same.

Prudence would seem to dictate that an act should be passed by
the legislature accepting the grant.

A Grant of Lands by the Northern Pacific Railroad Company.

The north forty mile limit of the land grant from the Northern
Pacific Railroad company passes through the center of the State Park
from southeast to northwest. The operation of the government grant
to the railroad company covers only the odd numbered sections.
Negotiations for a concession of these lands to the State were opened
with President T. F. Oakes, early in 1891. Col. Charles B. Lambora,
the land commissioner, who reported upon my application for these

TOURISTS IN CAMP ON SCHOOLCRAFT ISLAND.

NEAR AND DISTANT VIEWS.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 113

lands, recommended that they be deeded to the State for one dollar.
Inasmuch as the lands are held in trust for the benefit of stockholders
or otherwise, the board of directors of the company find it necessary
to report a compensation for the lands sold, and the nominal price of
fifty cents per acre was fixed as the compensation and this very liberal
offer has been accepted by me, and a formal contract in the name of
the State has been made and executed accordingly, subject to the ap-
proval of the governor.

This company also controls the grant to the Little Falls & Dakota
railroad, two hundred acres of which lie within the park limits. This
was offered at one dollar per acre by the same board of directors, and
like action taken thereon as in the case of the Northern Pacific com-
pany.

A full history of these negotiations and a copy of the contracts
are appended.

It only requires that the legislature appropriate the amount
necessary to consummate the contracts in order that the formal deeds
from the company to the State may be placed upon record, on or before
the first day of July, 1893, at which time the contracts will lapse.
This favorable outcome in these negotiations with the Northern Pacific
company, practically constitutes a generous grant to the State.

The Great Northern Railroad Lands.

The Great Northern railroad company controls two hundred and
ten acres of land within the park limits, selected on behalf of the
grant of State swamp lands to the M. & St. C. railroad. Application
has been made for the relinquishment of these lands to the State, and
the application is pending, with the expectation that the final out-
come will be favorable and satisfactory.

Lands Known as the Weyerhauser Tract.

The Pine Tree Lumber Company has acquired title to 3,191.90
acres within the park limits from the Northern Pacific railroad com-
pany. This purchase was made prior to the establishment of the park.

In June, 1891, application was made to the Pine Tree Co. for its
lands. The members of the company were widely separated and nego-
tiations were slow and unsatisfactory. On the 3rd day of December,
1892, I met Mr. Frederick Weyerhauser, one of the trustees of the
Pine Tree company, by appointment, and with a committee of the
State Historical Society, consisting of Hon. Alexander Ramsey, Capt.

FOREST SCENES AT ITASCA LAKE.

MOUTH OF BOUTWELL CEEEK.

BIRCH THICKET NEAR GARRISON POINT.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 115

Peter Berkey, Charles D. Elfelt, Esq., and Gen. John B. Sanborn, an
understanding was reached with Mr. Weyerhauser that these lands
should come to the State without the necessity of formal proceedings
in condemnation. The price however, has not been agreed upon, and
negotiations are still pending. It is now believed that with the favor-
able recommendation of Mr. Weyerhauser these lands will soon be
placed at the disposal of the State by formal contract at a reasonable
price.

As these lands are closely surrounded by other lands now within
the control of the State, their value for park purposes can hardly be
over estimated, and when acquired will constitute a very valuable
acquistion.

The School Sections.

Sections 16 and 36 in township 143, range 36, are within the park
limits and enure to the grant to the State for purposes of public in-
struction, and it properly appertains to the duty of the auditor of
State, acting as land commissioner, to consummate the legal formality
of transfer, under the law of 1891.

Other Lands.

Almost the entire balance of the lands within the limits of the
park are owned and controlled by Hon. John S. Pillsbury and T. B.
Walker, Esq., of Minneapolis, Minn. My negotiations with those
owners of land have up to this time been without result. They have
suggested a sale of their lands to the State by an estimate of Stumpage
at $2 per M. for standing Norway pine and $4 per M. for standing
white pine, the land to go with the stumpage. I have not deemed it
advisable to accept such an offer, because stumpage for standing pine
at Itasca lake has not heretofore commanded that price per M. The
further consideration of my unwillingness, is the necessity of a close
and careful estimate of stumpage on the grounds, the cost to the State
depending on the estimates, and I do not feel entirely authorized to
proceed on that basis. It would seem that the most satisfactory
manner in which these lands can be acquired would be in formal pro-
ceedings in the district court on behalf of the State, that impartial
commissioners may be appointed to appraise the value of the lands.
I think proceedings in condemnation would prove entirely satisfactory
to all concerned, as the value would in any event necessarily be fixed
from the results of an examination, and it is best that sworn commis-

VIEWS AT EAST AEM, ITASCA LAKE.

EAST SHORE OF EAST ARM.

U. S. ENGINEER'S TRIANGULATION STATION.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 117

sioners appointed by the court should be the authority to appraise
the land and fix the value. I have personally examined all these
lands and they are necessary for a compact limit in the official for-
mation of the reserve.

Recapitulation.

Area of the State park 19,701.69 acres

Granted by the United States 6,956.92 acres

Granted by the Northern Pacific Co... 2,452.96 acres
The Weyerhauser tract (negotiation favor-
able) 3,191.90 acres

Two school sections 1,280.00 acres

Great Northern selections 210.16 acres

Undisposed of swamp lands 82.67 acres

14,174.61 acres 14,174.61 acres
Area covered by unsuccessful negotiation. 5,527.08 acres

Mr. William McMullen is the only actual settler within the park
limits. He holds a homestead claim, but has not yet proved up, and
the area of his claim is included in the area covered by unsuccessful
negotiations.

The Head Waters of the Mississippi.

Situated within the State Park limits are the utmost head water
branches of the Mississippi river, and for that reason the attention of
civilized humanity has been, from time to time, more or less drawn
towards it, since the discovery of the river in A. D. 1541.

The correctness of the hydrographic conditions at and above
Itasca lake having been questioned, your excellency on the 3rd of
August, 1891, requested me to report the facts in my possession which
had come to my knowledge as commissioner or otherwise. The report
made by me in response to your request and the map accompanying
it is appended. This report and map was published and widely cir-
culated by this office. On the first day of July last the State Printing
Commissioner called for a volume written and edited by me, for the
State Historical Society, in the nature of a report upon the discovery
of the river and its source, a historical and geographical record. This
volume has been printed by the state printers under the supervision
of this office, and is about ready for publication and distribution
through the office of the Secretary of State. The first advance copy

HISTOEIC EECOED POST AND SIGN BOAED.
NORTH END OF ITASCA LAKE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 119

of the volume is herewith separately transmitted for your inspection.

Trout Streams.

There are several streams of water within the park, which are
favorably situated for the propagation of brook trout. During Au-
gust and September, 1891, I transported and successfully placed about
six thousand trout, from the state hatchery, at the park. In May,
1892, all arrangements were completed for the transportation of forty
thousand trout to several streams there, but owing to the excessive
rain storms of the period the attempt was abandoned. The State
Fish Commission has promised to place a sufficient number of *,rout
in the streams of the park, during the season of 1893.

A Forest of Pine.

The entire park, with the exception of a limited swamp area and,
occasionally, an opening, is a picturesque forest of white, Norway and
Banks pine, intermixed with limited quantities of cedar, fur, spruce,
maple, ash, elm, basswood, birch, aspen and oak.

Practically, more than one billion feet of timber, per annum, is
cut and marketed in Minnesota, and at no distant day the park will
contain the only tract of standing pine within the borders of the State.
At the time when that period shall have been reached and passed the
State will have a population of several millions of people; railroads,
towns, villages, agricultural pursuits and industrial interests will then
have practically covered the entire portion of the State, and this forest
reservation will become easily accessible and of great value as a public
resort.

Compensation For Services and Expenses.

The entire labors described in this report, and all of the expenses
incurred, have been performed and paid by me without having been
in any manner compensated or reimbursed for the same. I request
that you recommend to the legislature an appropriation adequate to
the labor performed and the cash expenses necessarily paid.

Having had no appropriation with which to carry out the require-
ments of the law, and laboring under adverse circumstances, I trust
that my official acts will be deemed to be satisfactory, and meet with
the approval of your excellency and the incoming legislature.

Respectfully submitted,
Your obedient servant,

J. Y. BROWER,
Park Commissioner.

ITASCA STATE PARK DIAGRAM, 1893.
Park lands in black, other tracts in white, water surface reserved.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 121

January 3, 1893, the legislature of the State of Minnesota con-
vened at St. Paul. Gov. William R. Merriam the next day delivered
his farewell message when he made the following statement concern-
ing the park:

THE ITASCA STATE PARK.

At the session of the legislature of 1891 an act was passed cre-
ating a state park around Lake Itasca. Pursuant to the provisions
of that act, on May 4, 1891, I appointed Mr. J. V. Brower as commis-
sioner of the park. Mr. Brower at once proceeded to secure conces-
sions from the owners of the lands in the reservation, and with much
success, so that now the state can acquire the entire ownership of the
tract with a very reasonable outlay. The entire area of the park
amounts to 19,701.69 acres. I also requested Mr. Brower to examine
the question of what is the true and real source of the Mississippi, and
his conclusions regarding that topic are given in his report submitted
herewith. It will remain for the legislature to decide whether it will
provide for the outlay necessary to purchase the lands included in the
limits of the Itasca State Park.

The accompanying diagram was drawn by the park commissioner
to indicate the location of park lands under control of the state and
individual holdings by lumbermen and others. The diagram has here-
tofore been twice published, first by the St. Paul Globe and second by
the state fire warden in a fourth annual report.

Such were the actual conditions at the end of two years' labor
under operation of the park law, seasons of 1891 and 1892, when the
entire question was again referred to the legislature by Governor
Merriam. It was assuredly the end of the formative period in the life

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THE PARKS CABIN.

SECTION 21, TOWNSHIP 143, RANGE 36, AT NICOLLET'S MIDDLE LAKE.

Erected to secure pine land on N. P. R. R. indemnity grant with adverse
result. President Cleveland's order opening the grant to speculating
settlers was reversed by Federal Courts.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 123

of a park, grandly beautiful in its evergreen shores, deep valleys,
wooded hills and dense forests, where the home of wild animals, the
songs of birds, an angler's paradise, all with a world-wide historic
recognition, rested in seclusion but with open doors and a standing
irrevocable invitation for every human being in the whole world to
visit and enjoy a public resort where the peace, purity and plenty of
nature's cause reigned supreme over the destines of carpeted, cone-
bedecked hills, moss-covered valleys, and an atmosphere of superb
aromatic excellence charged with the divine gifts which emanate un-
interruptedly from magnificent clusters of the pine, cedar, fir, spruce,
and birches which intermingle where devastating trespasses are
crimes when an enforced law, honestly executed, shall protect forever
in a state of nature that which nature and man have combined to give
for the cause of human freedom.

The formative period having been successfully passed, the per-
fective period now begins. Many and important park interests needed
careful attention, as the avarice of rude and destructive trespassers
aided by covert influences foreshadowed a dangerous menace which
might threaten the stability and mar the beauty of an established
state park.

Wealthy and influential lumbermen as owners of a considerable
portion of the area adjoining Itasca and Elk lakes persistently refused
any aid or concession whatsoever. Their attitude indicated distinctly
that they must be dealt with on terms which were so burdensome
that the beginning of the perfective period created days of anxiety
for the park commissioner. He stood empty handed and alone facing
an array of opponents who threatened the stability and the preserva-
tion of Itasca State Park.

VIEWS AT SCHOOLCRAFT ISLAND, ITASCA LAKE.

THE ISLAND, LOOKING NORTH.

SCENE BEFORE SUNRISE PROM THE ISLAND, EASTWARD.

THE PERFECTIVE PERIOD.

SUBDIVISION SECOND.

During the 1893 session of the Minnesota legislature, various pro-
ceedings were initiated to perfect the formation of the state park.

The bill to accept the grant of lands at Itasca Lake from the
United States as prepared by the commissioner, passed both houses
of the legislature without opposition and was approved, becoming a
law April 19th, 1893. The senate finance committee headed by Mr.
C. S. Crandall, who had persistently opposed the formation of the state
park, and the make-up of the house appropriations committee, created
a very unfavorable outlook for success.

The park commissioner proceeded to formulate a status of pro-
ceedings less obstructive than must necessarily be met with while Mr.
Crandall was chairman of the senate finance committee, through which
all appropriation bills must pass unless otherwise ordered. The fol-
lowing resolution disclosed the park commissioner's plan for ameliora-
tion of an oppressive opposition :

Resolved, By the Senate, the House of Representatives concurring,
that a joint special committee, consisting of five on the part of the
Senate and nine on the part of the House, be appointed by the re-
spective presiding officers to take under consideration and report i:pon
all matters pertaining to the Itasca State Park.

The resolution passed both houses and a special joint committee
consisting of Senators Sanborn, John Day Smith, Donnelly, MeHale
and Hompe, and Representatives Markham, Abbott, Greer, Turrell,
Fleming, Scofield, Moore, Gorman and Furlong, was duly initiated for
consideration of park matters, beginning February 3, 1893.

126 ITASCA STATE PARK.

All necessary bills were prepared by the commissioner and at his
request introduced into the senate, February 8th, 1893, and referred
to the special joint committee on Itasca State Park and considered by
that committee. The bills appropriated sums of money to pay the
Northern Pacific Railroad Company for lands contracted for, to pay
the park commissioner for his services and expenses, and providing a
fund to meet judgments in condemnation proceedings. The reports
were favorable, whereupon Senator Sanborn moved that the bill for the
relief of the commissioner and condemnation of lands at Itasca Lake
for park purposes, be referred to the finance committee. That action
defeated every purpose and object of the joint special committee.
Senator Crandall was chairman of the finance committee. He secured
possession of the bill February 10th and held it up fifty days without
action. On the first day of April he reported the measure to the senate
without recommendation, whereupon the bill was placed at the foot of
general orders fully prepared for an untimely death. In the Senate
Journal at page 203 the recording clerk erroneously transposed the
bills S. F. Nos. 250 and 251, as will be readily noticed by referring to
pages 616 and 668, where respectively they occupy positions regularly
assigned, notwithstanding the clerk's erroneous record at page 203.
The fifty days during which Mr. Crandall held up the success of Itasca
State Park by neglecting and refusing to permit the bill, S. F. No. 251,
to be considered and promptly reported for action, were spent by the
park commissioner in organizing a movement to grasp victory from
defeat. The entire question was now placed in charge of Senator John
Day Smith and right royally he fought in open session for fair treat-
ment and favorable action. He it was who placed the entire matter
as amendments to the omnibus appropriation bill as it passed the sen-
ate, but opposition was active and a committee on conference was or-
dered resulting in an agreement of the two houses to abandon the park
commissioner to his fate without any appropriation whatsoever except
$1,326.48 to meet approved land contracts made with the Northern
Pacific Railroad Company. The final outcome can be found at page
846, Senate Journal, April 15, 1893, in the following words : * * * *

ITASCA STATE PARK. 127

That the Senate recede from its amendment to the tenth (10th) sub-
division of section nine (9) appropriating twelve thousand five hun-
dred dollars, to procure title to land not yet purchased in Itasca State
Park. * * * *

Three days later the legislature of the great State of Minnesota,
for 1893, filed out of the capitol building at St. Paul at the last hour
of the session, leaving the park without a fund, abandoned to what-
ever circumstances might eventually overtake it.

The Itasca State Park Commissioner— Mr. J. V. Brower— stood
on the portico of the old capitol building as the legislators passed by.
He was defeated, but not disconsolate, disheartened or dishonored.
That hour he declared while bearing the burdens imposed by most
unjust legislative obstruction— ' 'Itasca State Park Shall Live For-
ever/' notwithstanding the objections of Mr. C. S. Crandall and Mr.
J. T. Wyman, who were respectively chairmen of the Senate Finance
Committee and of the House Appropriations Committee for 1893.
Each refused to aid a state institution which had been duly established
by law, at the expense of an unprotected public official, capably and
successfully performing the duties imposed by an operative statute,
mandatory in its provisions.

Two courses of procedure on the part of the commissioner were
open for his choice :

First. Resign office and leave the park to its fate.

Second. Proceed without pay or an expense fund, to protect the
interests of an established state institution at his own ex-
pense until factious opposition was overcome.

In 1642, Hollanders left the Netherlandish shores seeking the
great privileges of liberty. Some of them passed to the Transvaal,
others to New Amsterdam. History indicates the true character of
those hardy and persistent people, of which they have no reason to be
ashamed. The Itasca State Park commissioner descended directly
from the Dutch migration which established New Amsterdam, now
Greater New York. He it was on that fateful April 18th, 1893, when
the park was abandoned to its fate, relying upon the persistent and

FOREST VIEWS AT ITASCA BASIN.

BURNED OVER AREA.

WHITE PINE GROVE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 129

energetic powers of tenacious adherence which he liberally inherited
from an active ancestry, in the face of defeat but not despair, imme-
diately decided to officially conduct the interests of the park at his
own expense two years longer and until another legislature, appealed
to, might more graciously than its predecessor, rise to an adequate
recognition of a profoundly established public franchise of incalcu-
nble value, which the state by its approved enactment, promised the
United States of America that it would protect and defend exclusively
for the uses of a public state park.

The first official duty was to liquidate approved contracts with
railroad companies for an extinguishment of their titles within the
park limits. The deeds in favor of the state in due course of ample
completion were placed on record. In the name of the state the park
commissioner proceeded to take possession of the 2,452.96 acres
secured as the results of original contracts of concession, which he
immediately assigned to the continuous uses of the state park as a
picturesque and wholly needful addition to the park realty, situated
principally at the locations of Nicollet and Mary Valley's, Itasca,
Elk, Morrison and Hernando de Soto lakes.

In 1894 various and multitudinous duties of the park commis-
sioner were performed as shown by his official report, including the
opening of a new wagon road from Itasca Lake to Little Mantrap
Lake with the assistance of William McMullen and other interested
settlers.

The last official report of the first commissioner of the park was
a s follows :

State of Minnesota

ITASCA STATE PARK.

Commissioner's Office, St. Paul, Dec. 1, 1894.
To His Excellency Knute Nelson, Governor of the State.

Sir : I have the honor to transmit my report, pursuant to the pro-
visions of section 8, chapter 56, Laws of 1891.

The accompanying chart, hereto attached and transmitted, is
made a part of this report.

FOREST VIEWS AT ITASCA STATE PARK.

SHORE OF ELK LAKE.

DEM1NG LAKE. MARY VALLEY.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 131

The chart will indicate to you the precarious and unsatisfactory
condition of the property acquired by the state, at Itasca lake, as a
permanent reservation.

At the last session of the legislature, an act was passed accepting
from the government of the United States a grant of all the lands
within the limits of the park, not otherwise disposed of.

An appropriation was also made, to purchase the undisposed-of
granted lands of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company , and the
deeds for the same have been placed upon record.

This action places under state control 10,879 acres, and leaves the
private ownership of lands not purchased or condemned, 8,823 acres,
held by John S. Pillsbury, Thos. B. Waiker and the Weyerhaeuser
syndicate. These owners are preparing to cut and market the grow-
ing timber on their lands. The reservation is a dense forest of Nor-
way, White and Banks pine, with a considerable growth of spruce, fir,
cedar, ash, oak, elm, basswood, sugar maple, aspen and various other
kinds and varieties of timber and evergreens. The lands of the state
md those of private ownership are closely intermingled and adjoin-
ing. As soon as the timber shall have been cut from the lands held by
private owners, the whole tract of thirty-five square miles will become
a burned, black and denuded waste, the streams and lakes will dry up
and partially disappear, and the reservoir dam necessary to drive the
logs through and out from Itasca and Elk lakes into the Mississippi
river, will drown out every tree and shrub standing upon the shores
of said lakes.

When the timber standing upon the lands held by the state shall
have been burned down and drowned out, the whole purpose and in-
tent of the law will be silenced forever, and half of some years there
will be no Mississippi river flowing out from Itasca lake.

The only remedy to prevent such a result rests in the lawful right
of the state to acquire, by condemnation or otherwise, the 8,823 acres
not yet acquired.

This acquisition, at small cost, for the tract is not large noi of
great value, will certainly preserve one of the most extensive, pictur-
esque and historic spots in the western hemisphere.

Between these two described conditions a choice must now be
made. Tw t o years' longer delay, and a portion or all of that reserva-.
tion will be a waste. As to the value of the park as a resort for health,
pleasure and recreation, it has a world-wide reputation, and a few of
those who have visited the place this season speak in unmistakable

132 ITASCA STATE PARK.

terms, and I append the communications sent in answer to my in-
quiries.

A tree, such as now stands growing in the state park, can be cut
down and destroyed in a few moments. They cannot be reproduced
by nature in less time than two centuries.

The responsibility now is: Shall the source of the Mississippi
river be preserved to posterity as a public park, or shall it be destroyed
and obliterated forever? The answer rests with you and the legis-
lature.

GAME AND FISH.

The past year I have taken active steps to protect the game and
fish within the limits of the reservation, with some success. Much
more could have been done if the use of firearms was entirely pro-
hibited there. In 1893 Indians and pot-hunters roamed all over the
park, killing every animal and fowl they came to. Moose, deer and
bear suffered in the common slaughter. No portion of the game and
fish appropriation was expended there, my application for the same
having been denied. During this season I have personally caused an
ample number of painted notices to be posted, warning off all poachers,
with good effect, but it must be confessed that white men very much
dislike to be denied privileges in hunting and fishing, which teepee
Indians avail themselves of at every opportunity. A terrific and tell-
ing destruction of moose and deer has taken place at and beyond
Itasca lake the past twenty-four months, regardless of all law. Moose
meat has been more plentiful than beef. The howl of hounds has been
heard in every direction in the chase, and fish nets have been set pro-
miscuously. One firm at Bemidji lake had about thirty fawn saddles
ready for shipment on the first day of November of this year.

I caused the arrest of several parties at Park Rapids for illegal
hunting and fishing, and upon a criminal complaint by me against
one Foster for hunting deer and seining fish at Naiwa lake, Hubbard
county, with others, one of whom was shot and killed at said lake,
Sheriff Moran took possession of their seines in the month of June
last and made no return to the state whatever therefor. Circumstances
of this kind do not encourage prosecutions.

PREHISTORIC MOUND BUILDERS.

On the 27th dajy of October last I discovered and located on the
shores of Itasca lake the unmistakable remains and relics of a lost

ITASCA STATE PARK. 133

village of prehistoric Mound-Builders. Stone and copper implements
and a curious and miscellaneous collection of broken pottery were
taken from below the surface of the ground upon lot 2, section 2, town-
ship 143, range 36, and an adjoining tract on the north end of the
lake. It would appear that this lost village was nearly a half mile in
length, and the fact that the deposit of relics is now found below the
present surface of the earth several inches, seems to justify the belief
that this extinct race of men proceeded to, discovered and resided at
Itasca lake many centuries ago, but as to an exact date when these
known occurrences took place, a further and more extended exam-
ination is necessary for an intelligent guess. I append a small sketch
map of the locality, sufficient for present information and until, an
accurate chart of the premises can be made.

COMPENSATION.

I desire to call your attention to the fact that the entire labor
and expense of this office has been performed and paid by me without
any reimbursement whatever. The bill for my relief at the last session
of the legislature was held in the possession of Senator C. S. Oandall
or his committee for many days, and until it was too late to be con-
sidered.

There is a limit to endurance. I am, sir,

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. V. BROWER,
Commissioner.

Several appendices were attached to that report and the whole
was published March 22nd, 1895, in pamphlet form, and for insertion
in the current Executive Documents.

From those appendices the following curtailed quotations are
here reproduced:

THE ITASCA STATE PARK.

A Condensed Statement Intended to Preserve an Abbreviated Record
of Proceedings Which Resulted in the Formation and Establish-
ment of the State Reservation at the Source of the Mississippi
River as a Public Park, and Some Subsequent Proceedings Under
the Park Law, Including a Statement of the Services Performed
by the Commissioner.
On the 27th day of October, 1894, the Commissioner of the State

Park discovered and located the site of a lost village of prehistoric

VIEW AT WEST SHORE OF DEMING LAKE.

MARY VALLEY, ITASCA BASIN.

Originally named Danger Lake in 1889. Changed to Deming Lake in 1899 in
honor of Hon. P. C. Deming.

VIEW AT EAST SHORE OF DEM1NG LAKE.

MARY VALLEY. ITASCA BASIN.

An unmeandered body of water at the base of the highest hill within the
Itasca Basin.

136 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Mound Builders at the north end of Itasca lake, and marked the site
by the erection of an oak tablet, properly inscribed and painted.

# # # * '

Briefly stated, the actual possession of the Itasca basin may be
approximately given as follows:

Pre-glaeial ages— possibly palaeolithic man.

Post-glacial period— the Mound-Builders.

The succeeding occupancy— the Sioux Indians.

The Columbian period— the Spanish.

Post-Columbian period— the French and English.

The XVIIth or XVIIIth Century-the Ojibway Indians.

The XVIIIth Century— the Federal Republic.

Feb 22, 1855— ceded, by treaty between the United States and the
Ojibway Indians.

1876-1891— surveyed by the government and open to pioneer
settlement ; Peter Turnbull and family and others.

1891— set apart by law and dedicated as a public park forever.

The Ojibway treaty of Feb. 22, 1855, was entered into at the city
of Washington by Geo. W. Manypenny, commissioner on the part of
the United States, and the following named chiefs and delegates, rep-
resenting what was then called the Mississippi bands of Ojibway In-
dians, who then occupied and claimed the territory surrounding the
headwaters of the Mississippi :

Indian Name. English Name.

Pug-o-na-ke-shick Hole-in-the-day

Que-we-sans-ish Bad boy

Wend-e-kaw Little Hill

Be-sheck-kee Buffalo

I-awe-showe-we-ke-shig Crossing Sky

Petud-dunce Rat's Liver

Mun-o-min-e-kay-shein Rice Maker

Mah-yah-ge-way-we-durg The Chorister

Kay-gwa-daush The Attempter

Caw-cang-e-we-goon Crow Feather

Show-baush-king Passes under Everything

Aish-ke-bug-e-koshe Flat Mouth

Nay-bun-a-caush Young Man's Son

Mang-e-gaw-bow Stepping Ahead

Mi-gi-si Eagle

Kaw-be-mub-bee North Star

ITASCA STATE PARK. 137

Some of these Indian names are given differently in other of their
several treaties with the federal government.

[In 1900 a determination was reached by a series of archaeologic
examinations in Minnesota, indicating positively that the mound-
building period and the Sioux occupancy at Itasca lake were iden-
tical.]

PER DIEM AND EXPENSE ACCOUNT.

1889-90 Survey $1,476.00

Time actually employed from May, 1891, to May, 1892, both

inclusive, 318 days . 1,590.00

Expense account, 1891, to June 1, 1892—

Office rent, Cumberland block and Schutte block 105.00

Miscellaneous expenses for the month of May 6.25

Expense account for June and July-
Railroad fares for abstracts of title 24.32

Hotel bills 11.25

Team and subsistence, with one man examining ninety-five

sub-divisions of land 1 10.00

August— One copper map plate for report to Governor Mer-

riam 40.00

Expenses to park and return with trout 45.90

Postage stamps 25.00

September— Printing maps and report at Pioneer Press job

rooms 49.57

October and November— Transportation to State Park and

return, subsistence, with one man and team, examining

368 tracts of land 135.75

December— Cost of line of levels from railroad tract at Park

Rapids to surface of the water at Itasca Lake and return

expenses 50.00

January— Typewriting (Miss Dassel) 40.00

Postage 10.00

March— Paid draftsman for lettering (Mr. Jewett) 20.00

May— Transportation to park and return and subsistence,

with team 58.00

VIEWS AT NORTH END OF ITASCA.

ITASCA POST OFFICE AND WEGMANNS STORE.

OUTLET OF ITASCA LAKE THROUGH THE RUSHES.

THEODORE WEGMAKN.
POSTMASTER AT ITASCA LAKE.

After the death of William MeMullen in 1898, Mr. Wegmann commenced and
continued the entertainment of travelers and tourists, supplanting the
McMullen accommodations which for many years were cabin head-
quarters for the traveling public.

He is also a game warden for the state, having special authority to prevent
poachers from trespassing against park game and fish.

140 ITASCA STATE PARK.

June 1 to Dec. 31, 1892.

Time actually employed from June 1 to Dec. 31, 1892, with
correspondence, contracts, compilations of reports, proof-
reading, procuring certificates from United States land
offices at St. Cloud and Crookston, Minn., and various and

miscellaneous official duties, 168 days 840.00

Office rent, from June to December, 1892, both inclusive 49.00

June, 1892— Expense account, one trip to State Park and

return 21.10

August— Expense account . . . 4.00

September— Expense account 4.60

October— Expense account 4.00

November—Expense account 3.80

Postage 6.00

Expenses to Crookston, Minn, and return 21.10

December— Expense account 3.20

Office rent for 1893 60.00

1893.

Two days in May, adjusting land grant by deed from North-
ern Pacific Railroad Company and the record fees at
register of deeds' office 13.00

1894.

During my absence from the state in 1893, marauders, poach-
ers, Indians and fishermen overran the park and its
waters, killed off the game, netted the fish in Itasca Lake,
built stables for their horses from timber cut from the
lands of the state, and in many ways desecrated the
premises in a lawless manner, to such an extent that I
felt it my duty to post painted notices throughout the
park, warning off these unlawful trespassers. Fifty of
these notices have been posted, and landmarks showing
the boundaries of the park and the penalties for trespass
have been erected. The last week in October, 1894, I
found a camp of hunters in the very centre of the park,
with a season's hay put up for their team, and a stable

ITASCA STATE PARK. 141

constructed from the dense branches of evergreens. Many
precautions against fire were taken by me, as a result of
which no fires swept through the park during the dry
season of 1894, and the timber remains intact, and but
slightly damaged in one or two outside localities. The
highway through the park is now the highway of emigra-
tion, and thousands of people are rapidly settling upon
government lands north of the park, and down the Miss-
issippi river toward Bemidji Lake. The county commis-
sioners of Hubbard county having laid out a county road
from Park Rapids to the State Park in November last,
with a volunteer force of settlers, I caused this road to
be opened a portion of the distance in good order, to
lessen the obstructions to travel. The time occupied in
these last described precautions for good order and the
preservation of the property of the state from May 1 to
Nov. 21, 1894, was as follows: In May, twenty-six days;
July, six days; August, six days; October, twenty-six
days, and November, twenty-six days, during which last
mentioned time I made my formal report to Governor
Nelson for the two years ending December 1st last, in all

ninety days 450.00

Incidental expenses during said time 52.20

Total $3,853.04

This sum total does not include the cost of my survey and ex-
amination made in 1889 and 1890, all of the results of which have
come into the possession of the state by the act of merging herein-
before stated, when Governor Merriam and the state printer called
for the results of said survey and examination, by which, with my
consent, the whole thereof became the property of the state. Of the
cost of this first survey, the Historical Society, by its treasurer, paid
$150, and I paid the balance, receiving nothing for services performed.
Since the date of my appointment as commissioner no sum whatever
hais been paid for my services and expenses, on the part of the state,
or by any individual whomsoever, and the whole amount stated is
justly my due.

CAMP BROWER AT MARY CREEK. .

VIEW FROM THE CREEK TO THE CAMP.

SCENE FROM THE CAMP TOWARDS THE CREEK.

The new State Park House site has been located at that camp.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 143

Recapitulation.

Cost of the 1889-90 survey #1,476.00

Per diem and expenses 1891-92-93-94 3,853.04

Total ..#5.329.04

Paid by the Historical Society $150.00

Paid by the state 00.00

150.00

Balance, my due #5,1.79.04

Governor Nelson in his last message, referring to the park, said:

ITASCA STATE PARK.

"From the report of the commissioner of Itasca State Park, made
on the 1st day of last December, it appears that the state has acquired
the ownership and control of 10,879 acres within the limits of the park,
and that there are still within these limits 8,823 acres, owned by pri-
vate parties and scattered in tracts of various sizes among* the state
lands, that ought to be acquired by the state. These lands are cov-
ered with a valuable forest of pine, spruce, fir, cedar, ash and oak, and
the owners are likely at an early day to cut and market this timber.
"When these lands have been stripped of their timber they are the
easy prey of forest fires, and a fire breaking out upon them will inevi-
tably spread to the other lands of the park, and thus the whole area
will become a burnt, black and desert waste, and will cease to afford
any safeguard or protection to the source of our mighty river.

"The legislature of 1891 acted wisely and with rare good judgment
when it established this park. Itasca Lake and its preservation is
sacred .and dear to every American heart. The lake and all its beau-
tiful environment should, as far as possible, be kept intact in its primi-
tive and normal condition; and in order to accomplish this, the lands
.in private ownership should, as speedily as possible, be acquired by
the state. These lands can be obtained neither by purchase nor by
condemnation proceedings until the necessary funds are provided for
that purpose. The work planned by the legislature of 1891 should be
consummated and completed by the legislature of 1895. I commend
this subject to your favorable consideration, and recommend that you

144 ITASCA STATE PARK.

appropriate sufficient funds to acquire these lands by purchase or con-
demnation."

The session of the legislature for 1895, convened at St. Paul,
Minn., January 8th. The message of the governor placed the inter-
ests of the state park fairly and concisely before the two houses
for their consideration and action. The park commissioner drew a
comprehensive measure proposing needed amendments to the park
law and adequate appropriations to meet the expenses and costs there-
tofore incurred and for a beginning to convert private holdings of
land within the park to public uses by condemnation proceedings. By
reference that bill fell into the keeping of Mr. J. F. Jacobson and Mr.
C. F. Staples, members of the committee on public lands for the house.
Their knowledge of the interests of the state at Itasca Lake was very
limited. However, they assumed to take charge of the bill on a mo-
tion of Mr. Jacobson before the committee that the act be substituted
by a bill to be drawn by a sub-committee. The park commissioner was
offered a trifle more than fifty per of his per diem and disbursements
for four years' services.

The offer was absolutely and promptly declined.

An attack in vituperative and disrespectful language was all the
consideration which the park commissioner received for his four years'
labor in perfecting the establishment of the park.

His refusal to submit to the dictation of prejudiced, dictatorial
members of the committee in no way endangered the park, for they
could not in any manner whatsoever undo, cancel or abandon the
cause of the state in its park holdings. In due time the substitute bill
was brought into the house favorably reported for passage, minus any
provision to condemn lands or pay the park commissioner for services
and expenses. A step forward was made by providing an annual
salary of six hundred dollars and a thousand dollar cottage for the
park commissioner. The refusal to provide means to condemn private
holdings of lands promptly, was deliberately and intentionally ad-
hered to. At that date the value of timber at Itasca Lake did not
exceed $2.50 per thousand feet and much of it could be shown to be of

ITASCA STATE PARK. 145

less value on account of damages by fire and isolation. The refusal in
1895, dictated by Mr. Jacobson and Mr. Staples, to provide an ap-
propriation to meet the expenses of condemnation proceedings for the
conversion of the private holdings of land at the park, will eventually
cost the state over $100,000.00 to cover the increase in the values of
standing timber between the dates 1895 and 1905, a very expensive
Jaeobson-Staples proposition for the people of Minnesota to encounter
for the preservation of their state park and the adjustment of its com-
pleted area. The substitute bill passed the house March 19th. In the
senate it lay under an avalanche of bills ready to expire for want of
time to consider them. By a fortunate circumstance Mr. John Cooper
and Mr. Wm, E. Lee were interested in placing an impecunious politi-
cal friend named Whitney in the park commissioner's office at the
salary of $600 per annum. On motion of Senator Fuller, who was not
otherwise interested in the bill, it was called up under a suspension
of the rules and passed April 22nd, whereupon it was approved by the
governor April 25th.

That action placed Itasca State Park in the political machinery of
the state, one of the emoluments of the executive department each two
years term.

Since April 25th, 1895, the park has been in the hands of poli-
ticians with results which seriously menace its stability and mar its
beauty.

In due couse of time Mr. A. A. Whitney was appointed park com-
missioner for the term of two years, commencing April 25, 1895, by
(Governor Clough. The commissioner built a cottage on the east shore
of the North Arm of Itasca Lake and occupied it for four years.
During his incumbency the park remained at a complete standstill,
subject to various innovations by hunting parties who established
their camps at many localities within the park limits. A log barn was
constructed, some ground broken for a garden, and altogether the
establishment was a home for Mr. Whitney, an unprogressive, indigent
person who received the favors of political friends whom he had vari-
ously served.

VIEWS ALONG THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.

GAME POACHERS AT INLET OF WINNEBAGOSHISH LAKE.

FINE FOREST ON HELEN ISLAND, CASS LAKE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 147

Only one brief report by Mr. Whitney can be found in the archives
of the state. The circumstances of record which led up to that
should be here minutely detailed. Governor Nelson in his message to
the legislature, January 9th, 1895, formally recognized the importance
of the park in the words found at page five in the original document
hereinbefore republished.

Mr. Whitney was commissioned to take charge of all the interests
of the park May 25th, 1895.

December 1st, 1896, the Board of Game and Fish Commissioners,
at page six of the printed report made the following recommendation:

Our experience as a commission, coupled with the observation of
wardens and those who have had the opportunity, fully shows that the
value of our State Park in Hubbard County as a preserve for large
game, and the commission would urge upon the legislature the enlarge-
ment of this park and affording it watchful care and patrol in the
interests of game protection generally. As in this park any molesta-
tion of the game is prohibited, the overflow should go largely to stock
other portions of the state suitable for that purpose.

PARK COMMISSIONERS REPORT.

State of Minnesota,
Itasca State Park,
November 28, 1896.
To His Excellency David M. Clough, Governor of the State of Minne-
sota:

Sir: I have the honor to transmit my report pursuant to House
File No. 488, session laws of 1895.

My official duties as commissioner of Itasca State Park began on
the 25th day of May, 1895. Immediately after which I moved with my
family to the site of said State Park and entered upon the discharge of
my duties and have remained thereon continuously since.

I began the erection of the State Park House under said act in the
summer of 1895, but owing to the wet season and bad roads from Park
Rapids to State park, the building was not completed until May, 1896.
I erected a large and commodious house, consisting of fourteen rooms.
The said building is pleasantly located on Sec. 2, Town 143, Range 36,

148

ITASCA STATE PARK.

one mile south of the northern boundary of the State Park on the east
shore of the North Arm of Lake Itasca.

The roads to State Park from Mantrap Lake are in bad condition.
the season through, a distance of about twelve miles, and some provis-
ion should be made by the incoming legislature for the improvement
of the same.

There have been no forest fires within the limits of the State Park
during the past two years. I would suggest that some provision be
made for cutting out and clearing up around the boundaries of said
park in order to make an effectual fire guard in the future.

ITASCA STATE PABK HOUSE.

I have made a special effort under the provisions of said act to
protect game of all kinds on said State Park and have met with very
good success in that direction. The white hunters that came up in this
section of the country for the purpose of hunting have given me very
little trouble and are inclined to obey the laws. On the other hand
the Indians are a constant source of annoyance and have to be watched
the year around. As the law is such at the present time, as decided by

ITASCA STATE PARK. 149

the Attorney General, I am powerless to arrest any one in the act of
trespassing without first procuring: a warrant and giving bonds for
costs. It practically makes the law inoperative as far as my making
any arrests are concerned, as I would have to travel about twenty-five
miles to procure said warrant and my prisoners would doubtless in the
meantime be on the Indian Reservation. I w T ould suggest that the law
be amended, so as to enable the superintendent to make arrests on the
spot in all eases of trespass.

Mr. William McMullen being the only actual settler within the
park limits and having proved up on his claim I w T ould suggest that
an appropriation be made by the incoming legislature for the pur-
pose of obtaining title to the same so as to enable the commissioner to
have full jurisdiction over all lands in the park limits.

Trusting that my official acts as submitted will be deemed to be
satisfactory and meet with the approval of your excellency and the in-
coming legislature, I remain, your obedient servant,

A. A. WHITNEY,
Park Commissioner.

At page sixteen of Governor Clough ? s message to the legislature
for the year 1897, there is a mere reference to the State Park, per
functory in its character. In his message delivered two years later at
the beginning of the legislative session for 1899, we look in vain for
any reference whatsoever concerning Itasca State Park. As David M.
Clough, Governor, and A. A. Whitney, Park Commissioner, for four
years in control of a great natural resort, yielded to humanity a rec-
ord of the responsibilities of their stewardship, not one single step in
advance had been accomplished beyond the formative period under
direction of the first commissioner from 1891 to 1895. Governor
Clough was a lumberman with all that the words imply, and deep
down in the sentiments of esteem he entertained for his profession there
was not one particle of manly care demonstrated for that portion of
his people who loved a tree and cherished a park. I lis calling had
made him indifferent toward an enterprise which conserved a forest as
a timely rescue from the destructive forces represented in the office of
governor by David M. Clough. When he retired from office, Itasca
State Park was left with no improvement in its material interests be-
tween January, 1895, and the same month in 1899, excepting the con-

SHAKING HANDS ACROSS THE MISSISSIPPI.

At the inlet to Nicoliets Middle Lake, the Mississippi Kiver is two feet wide
and a foot in depth, immediately below Nicollet Springs. The view is
where the stream unites with the Jake.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 151

struction of a park cottage. The critical period in the life of that park
was four years nearer to the final test for supremacy or destruction,
lying dormant awaiting the rapid approach of the lumberman with his
ax and his annihilating disposition to despoil and destroy.

The obstructive purposes of members of the legislature for the
session of 1897, who were in control of the appropriations committee,
notably Mr. J. F. Jacobson and Mr. C. F. Staples, prevented any action
to ameliorate the dangers which confronted the safety of the State
Park at Itasca Lake, by providing the necessary funds to convert the
8,823 acres held by lumbermen to the uses of the state.

The election of John Lind as governor of Minnesota, John D. Jones
and R. B. Brower as state senators and P. C. Deming and Dr. L. W.
Babcock as representatives, gave Itasca State Park a better standing
in official circles. Each of the gentlemen named were enthusiastic
advocates of permanency for the park. Governor Lind forcibly ad-
vocated forestry in his message as follows:

"The subject of forestry is receiving considerable and well-merited
attention in this state. As yet the time has probably not arrived for
undertaking it upon the, or on the lines, that has been done in foreign
countries and in some of the Eastern states. In fact our natural forest
area has not yet been ascertained and cannot well be until the reports
of our geological survey have been published and fuller statistics ob-
tained on the subject. It is useless to talk of reserving arable land
capable of agricultural cultivation for forestry. Any forestry reserve
lines established this year would undoubtedly be modified next year
and so on continuously until the arable section of the state becomes
pretty well defined. The most important branch of the subject at this
time is intelligent legislation looking to the prevention of forest fires.
In this work, it seems to me, you should be able to secure effectual co-
operation from the owners of our pine and other forests.

"It is timely however to adopt at this time a policy that will make
it practicable to undertake forestry culture on a large scale when we
reach economic conditions that make such undertakings practicable.
With that in view, I would recommend that provision be made for in-

152 ITASCA STATE PARK.

creasing the extent of Itasca Park as recommended by the Game War-
den. It would also be well perhaps to prohibit the alienation by the
State of the fee in the public lands which are clearly within the perma-
nent forestry area of the State. At this time, I think that the utmost
that public sentiment would uphold or conditions justify on that sub-
jcet is for the State to retain title to what it has in that region, rather
than to acquire by purchase. Much controversy exists also in that
part of the state in regard to the payment of taxes by the owners of
the timbered lands. It is possible that out of that condition the State
might acquire title to large areas by forfeiture for unpaid taxes, and
also by voluntary conveyances from the owners. If by such means, or
any other, that involved no great outlay of money, the state could be-
come possessed of the title to large areas in the permanent forest area
of the State, it would certainly be wise foresight to avail ourselves of
the opportunity. The State would then have the lands when scien-
tific forestry culture becomes an imminent, practical question, as it will
some day. On this subject, like many others, it is futile to undertake
legislation in advance of a well defined, active public opinion. So long
as nine-tenths of our people would rather cut a tree than plant one.
time devoted to the discussion of scientific forestry is usually wasted.
All we can hope to do is as I have suggested; lay the foundation for it
in the future. The European countries did this by introducing the
subject in their schools early in the century. If we would create an
interest in the subject that shall be productive of results, we should
do the same. Our bounty plan has been productive of some results,
but the plan that in my opinion would be productive of greatest re-
sults would be to require each country school district to have a large
plot of ground connected with it upon which the children under the
guidance of a competent teacher, would learn to grow and love a tree.
By that means, each community would have a nursery and it would
not be many generations before our now bleak prairies would present
the appearance of parks. Horticulture and forestry should be made
regular studies in our Normal Schools/'

The election of Hon. Portius C. Deming as a member of the legisla-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 153

lure from the University District of Minneapolis proved to be the most
fortunate result of 1899 occurrences for the State Park, as the opposi-
tion to permanency and preservation was still present in the house of
representatives.

Mr. Deming, on taking his seat in the legislature, began a syste-
matic inquiry concerning the status of the park. One day a meeting
between Mr. Deming and the first commissioner of the park took place.
The two strangers to each other entered upon a detailed conversation
of all the incidents and conditions surrounding the history and pros-
pects of that beautiful lake and forest reserve at Itasca Basin. The
relation between the two participants in that conversation were mark-
edly friendly and affable, but time has proved that it forecasted im-
portant results. All the conditions of the park were looked into and
explained. At the end of the conversation Mr. Brower asked Mr.
Deming what, if any, interest he had in the park. The reply was per-
haps evasive, but thereupon Mr. Deming drew and introduced the
Deming Bill into the legislature in the presence of an almost invincible
opposition. By the rules of the house the bill was placed in the hands
of the leading obstructor of the stability of the park. Then the forces
against Mr. Deming, who now became the most influential advocate for
some important step forward in park matters, asserted the tactics of
delay and obstruction. But Fortius C. Deming knew his opponents
and they underestimated his ability to overcome their purpose to bury
his bill for the relief of the park under an avalanche of delayed and
purposely obstructed proposed measures awaiting the janitor's waste
basket. One day late in the session the committee on appropriations,
on motion of Mr. Deming, was discharged from any further considera-
tion of the bill, which carried an appropriation of $21,000.00 for Itasca
State Park, whereupon, by consummate tact and energetically organ-
ized movements, Mr. Deming forced his bill through the house and
senate, and on the 20th day of April, 1899, it was approved and became
a law, notwithstanding every opposing menace. Itasca State Park was
again in the hands of its friends.

Governor Lind appointed Hon. W. P. Christensen as park com-

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ITASCA STATE PARK. 155

missioner to succeed Mr. A. A. Whitney and a new regime, having the
greatest interests of the park in prospect, came into existence.

Governor John Lind, Hon. Fortius C. Deming, J. H. O'Neil, Sena-
tor John D. Jones, the author of this volume, and their park friends
loved the shaded hills and deep ravines about Itasca Lake, and this
new movement for the advancement of the State Park promised most
excellent results which were very unfortunately and seriously cur-
tailed by unexplained delays in the proper and prompt execution of the
Deming law.

During the summer months of 1899 many parties of tourists visited
Itasca Lake, among whom were Governor Lind, Hon. P. C. Deming,
and the advance party of the Mississippi River Commission for a topo-
graphic survey of Itasca Basin. Early in the year Mr. Deming per-
sonally had secured the promise of the Brainerd Lumber Company for
a concession of one dollar per thousand reduction on the price of
standing timber for any portion of the holdings of that firm and the
further very favorable arrangement of two dollars reduction per thou-
sand feet if the state would take all the land that company controlled
inside the park limits. The provision for $1,000.00 interest on such an
option contained in the fourth section of the Deming law was provided
for just such an arrangement as Mr. Deming was enabled to secure and
promptly lay before the attorney general for his immediate action and
acceptance as the most favorable terms possible to secure on behalf of
the state. By that advantageous concession secured by Mr. Deming,
the provisions of his own law could have been made doubly valuable,
but the attorney general failed to adopt the proposal and the arrange-
ment lapsed for want of consummation, thereby all advantage as
offered was lost to the state and the park, while the price of standing
timber was steadily advancing.

Governor Lind while at the park ordered a saddle trail cut from
the wagon road at Mary Creek to the Source of the Mississippi and
thence in a circuit to the south end of the park. The work was pro-
ceeded with at the governor's own expense. After the trail had been

RAMSEr PINE.

August 12, 1899, Governor John Lind traversed the untrailed region about
Whipple Lake, discovered a massive white pine, and named it after
Hon. Alexander Ramsey as a sturdy specimen of the unconquered forest.

RAMSEY PINE.

By some cyclonic contact the great tree in its earlier growth was twisted into
corkscrew form at its upper branches which it maintains. It stands on
the Lind Saddle Trail near Whipple Lake.

STATION O AND MILEPOSTS, LIND SADDLE TRAIL.

ERECTED AND NUMBERED IN APRIL, 1900.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 159

completed and mile-posted, a written report bound in covers was made
to the governor, which, on his retirement from office, was placed in the
archives of the historical society, where it can be found under the title
of Lind Saddle Trail, by J. V. Brower.

Commissioner Christensen on assuming charge of the park per-
formed a public service by opening the wagon road direct from the
park house along the east arm of Itasca Lake to Station 0, Lind Saddle
Trail, near Mary Creek and thence to the county road leading to Park
Rapids, by which action he corrected an egregious error on the part of
those who had uselessly expended public funds opening a long, hilly
and circuitous highway by way of Ocano Springs. On the 7th day of
October, 1899, under direction of Governor Lind and Attorney Gen-
eral W. B. Douglas, J. V. Brower and T. S. Finney commenced and
proceeded with an exhaustive survey of the timber lands situated at
the State Park. They traveled by team with camping supplies to
Mary Creek, where a camp was established at the pine grove between
Mary and Itasca lakes. From October 9th to November 21st the
labor of estimating the timber was proceeded with. The time from
November 25th until March 6th, 1900, was spent in writing a report
of the work. On the 8th day of March, 1900, the examiners estab-
lished their camp at McMullen's cabin and continued the field work
until April 5th, when the camp was moved to Mary Lake from which
point the work was continued until completed, April 20th. On May
9th, 1900, a bound and completed report of the entire survey was filed
in the office of the attorney general at St. Paul, Minn. There are also
three closely written field books numbered 10, 11 and 12, of a series
containing notes of explorations in the Northwest. To make the fund
appropriated by the Deming bill immediately available, special ad-
vance reports on timber lands along the shore line of Itasca Lake were
made and forwarded to the attorney general's office at St. Paul in
order to make possible an acceptance of the offer to reduce the price
of timber held by the Brainerd Lumber Company.

During the months of April and May, 1900, under direction of

GUIDE BOARD ON LIND SADDLE TRAIL.

AT JUNCTION, WEST SHORE OF MARY LAKE.

ERECTED IN APRIL, 1900.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 161

Governor Lind, the Lind Saddle Trail was straightened and improved.
There was also planted along that trail 128 quarts of white clover and
bluegrass seed. Reproduced pages of the timber reports to show the
scope of the work are presented in this volume, indicating an elabor-
ate array of information.

At the beginning of April, 1900, V. S. Assistant Engineer A. T.
Morrow and party encamped at the north end of Itasca Lake, fully
prepared to extend the surveys of the Mississippi River Commission
over the area of Itasca Basin. Lines of precise levels, triangulations,
soundings, and topographic outlines carefully traversed gave results
in greater detail than had ever been accomplished at Itasca Lake and
its neighboring waters. The chart, of which a photographic reproduc-
tion is herein presented, shows the topography on a basis of five foot
contour intervals. All of the important hydrographic facts indicated
on the 1892 State Park chart are elaborated on the Mississippi River
Commission chart, indicating distinctly the peculiar water courses
forming the source of the Mississippi at the trough of the basin ex-
tending from the extremity of the west arm of Itasca Lake to Morri-
son and Hernando de Soto lakes, as originally charted from the field
notes of the Brower survey in 1889. There was no distinctly import-
ant natural feature extended upon the Mississippi River Commission
chart of 1900 which may not be found on the park chart of 1892.
Both charts are included within the covers of this volume.

The administration of park affairs by Hon. W. P. Christensen
was vigorous and successful. His official record is characterized by
two distinct features; the opening of the public highway from the
state house to and along the east arm of Itasca Lake, and an ener-
getic protection of wild game at the park in the presence of opposi-
tion which was abetted and encouraged by the county attorney of
Hubbard county, said at the time to have been aggravated by the
appearance of that official in defense of persons charged with crimes
committed against the rights of the state.

Commissioner Christensen made the following report:

162 ITASCA STATE PARK.

REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF ITASCA STATE PARK.

Commissioner's Office,
Itasca, Minn., Dec. 1, 1900.

To His Excellency John Lind, Governor of the State.

Sir: I have the honor to herewith transmit my second annual
report, pursuant to the provisions of section 6, chapter 106, General
Laws of 1895.

During the past year I have succeeded in keeping out forest fires
from the park, although conflagrations came up very close during the
dry season in the summer, and unless the state shall provide for a
clearing and fire-break, to be made around the park, of about 100 feet
in width, during the coming season, it is hard to predict how soon fire
will destroy all the timber in the park, as the lumbermen are now cut-
ting their timber within a mile of it, and that generally indicates
forest fires in the spring and following summer.

I have also taken active steps during the past year to protect the
game and fish within the park, by posting up about 600 notices in and
around the premises, defining the outlines of the park and warning off
all hunters and poachers, which have had some good effect; but it
must be confessed that unless the coming legislature makes provision
for purchasing the private land within the park, it will be hard to
entirely prevent hunting therein, as the present park law seems to
protect only that land of which the state is in possession.

On April 5, 1900, United States Assistant Engineers Mr. A. T.
Morrow, Mr. W. G. Comber, Mr. Geo. H. French, and United States
Surveyor Fred G. Ray appeared at the park, with a crew of men for
the purpose of making complete topographical and other surveys of
the park and the headwaters of the Mississippi river, under the direc-
tion of the Mississippi River Commission. During their stay they
erected within the park limits six obssrvation towers, ranging from
forty to ninety feet in height, all of which have been turned over to
your commissioner for the use of the state. I therefore respectfully
recommend that said towers be painted, and stone foundations put
under them, and that they be properly anchored with wire ropes, and.
otherwise protected so as to make them permanent structures.

The engineers completed their work in October, after one of the
most thorough surveys ever made in this region. Capt. Mason M.
Patrick, United States civil engineer, who is acting as secretary of the
Tlississippi river commission, arrived at the park September 22d t(>

A SIGN BOARD.

When Governor Lind ordered a Saddle Trail opened around the Source of the
Mississippi, a series of sign boards and mile posts were erected, one of
which near Mary Lake is shown in this view.

U. S. ENGINEER'S Till ANGULATION PLATFORM
DEMING LAKE.

BIRDS EYE VIEW OF ITASCA BASIN.

FKOM TOP OF PLATFORM AT DKMIN(i LAKE.
SECTION :r>, TOWN SHI P J 43, KAN(*E »>.

v. i). m*.

Mr. Edwin C. Oampton and Mr. Clarance L. Chester, tourists through Itasca
State Park, at the request of J. V. B rower, ascended the platform illus-
trated on opposite page to its station floor above the tree tops, one
hundred feet from the foundation timbers, with a camera, securing a
photographic reproduction of a view from the top of the platform on
the highest hill in the park across the area of Itasca Basin, looking
Northwest from the station.

The view on this page is a reproduction of the photograph secured by those
tourists.

166 ITASCA STATE PARK.

inspect the work, and he informed me that the map of the headwaters
and park under their direction would be completed in about a year,
and they can then be bought at the actual cost of production. I
therefore respectfully recommend that the state purchase 5,000 of
said maps, as everyone who visits the park is desirous of getting one,
and is willing to pay for same, and they could be sold by the com-
missioner of the park.

During the past year the park has been visited by no less than
364 tourists, sightseers and health seekers, coming from all parts
of the United States, many traveling several thousand miles for the
sake of seeing the headwaters of one of the most widely known rivers
in the world, and it will only be a question of a short time, if the
legislature will show a little generosity towards the improvements
needed in the park, when it will be visited not by a few hundred but
by thousands of people seeking knowledge, health, pleasure, and re-
creation.

I do not believe that at this time it will be out of place to state
that your commissioner fully comprehends that but very few people
of the state know or realize for a moment what a grand and pictur-
esque region the Itasca State Park is, and will remain as such for
future generations to come, if properly cared for and protected. It is
not large, but it is composed of the most picturesque and character-
istic region within the State of Minnesota, and there is not, in the
opinion of your commissioner, a contiguous tract of land in the country
as small as Itasca State Park where the diversified alternation of land
and water effects is so prominent; nor is there a more inviting place
within the borders of the state where the people, especially the class of
people who cannot afford to go to the more expensive watering places,
can go and seek health or recreation and pleasure. Here, on the banks
of the numerous beautiful lakes under the majestic pine trees, the
people can go and camp for weeks or months and restore their health ;
and if for no other reason than as stated above it should be main-
tained as a public park, and go down in history as a memory of the
great river Mississippi and the grand pine forests, when all other
similar forests in the state shall have been destroyed. It should re-
main as an everlasting monument and pride of the State of Minnesota
and to the memory and honor of the Historical Society of the state and
the father of the park, the Hon. J. V. Brower through whose efforts
the park has so far been saved from a disastrous failure.

The improvements which should be made in the park should be

ITASCA STATE PARK. 167

with the view and purpose to open the territory by roads and trails,
in order to display its varied natural charms. These charms of beauti-
ful nature ought always to be the chief attraction to the park. This
result can be best accomplished by allowing your commissioner to
employ a few men and teams to work in the park on roads and trails,
and the cleaning out and disposing of the dead and down timber, which
otherwise decays, and thereby increases the danger of destructive re-
sults from forest fires.

During the month of August, 1900, the park was visited with a
heavy rain and wind storm, which felled to the ground from thirty
to forty thousand feet of pine timber. Many of the logs, if taken
out at once, are still good for lumber, and your commissioner should
have power to dispose of them to the best advantage for the state.

Your commissioner, who is also acting as superintendent, should
also have the power to enact suitable rules and regulations for the
park, relating to visitors, campers and fishing parties, and the carry-
ing of firearms, and such other rules as would be necessary for the
protection of the park or the game therein, with a brief statement
of the characteristics and references of the various localities in the
park, subject to the approval of the governor. Such rules and regu-
lations should be printed in pamphlet form, and given to visitors for
their guidance.

If it is the intention of the people of the state to make the park
a game preserve, your commissioner will respectfully recommend that,
after the clearing and firebreak is made around the park, that the
whole tract be fenced in, with proper gates for entrance to the park
on the south, east, and north sides, something like the game preserves
in other states, which are so erected that the deer can pass in over the
fence on the runways, but cannot pass back out. If this is not done
at as early a date as possible, the deer and moose will soon be driven
further north or exterminated, as it seems to the writer that the set-
tiers around the park take glory in killing off the animals when they
appear out side the park, at all seasons of the year.

Your commissioner will also recommend that, in addition to the
present territory set aparl? for the park, a further appropriation be
made to purchase for park purposes the southwest fractional quar-
ter of section 35, township 144, range 36. The state would then con-
trol all of Itasca lake and the outlet of the Mississippi river. This is
of great importance to the park, in order to prevent private parties
damming up the lake, and thereby destroying the beautiful evergreen

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ITASCA STATE PARK. 169

shores. Only for the earnest effort made by your commissioner with
the owner of this tract of land, it would have been sold to a lumber
firm and a dam erected thereon in the fall of 1899. Concerning- the
further enlargement of the park your commissioner will make no re-
commendation, as the present size of thirty-five square miles which
cover all of the headwaters of the Mississippi river, is all that is neces-
sary for a public park, health resort, and game preserve.

I further recommend the purchasing of eighteen row boats, to
be placed in the lakes for the use of the people visiting the park, to
be placed as follows, to wit: Four in Itasca lake, two in Elk lake,
two in Mary lake, and one each in Hernando De Soto, Morrison,
Mikenna, Whipple, Nicollet's Middle, Gilfillan, Clarke, Deer Park,
Allen and Deming lakes. I also recommend that all private boats
iii the lakes should be under the restriction of the commissioner.

I will also recommend that the coming legislature take action to so
amend the park laws as to give your commissioner power to try and
determine all cases of violation of the park laws, imposing fines, etc.,
as in justice court. He certainly should have some power as a justice
of the peace within the state, as it is impossible to obtain a conviction
with the justices around the park, of which your present commission-
er has had sad experience.

Your commissioner also takes the liberty at this time to suggest
that the coming legislature be requested to have appointed a stand-
ing committee on parks, both in the senate and house of representa-
tives, in. order that all bills relating to state parks can be properly
referred to said committee.

At the last session of the legislature an act was passed appro-
priating $20,000 for the purpose of purchasing some of the private
land in the park by the attorney general, under the direction of
the governor, which will no doubt appear in a separate report by
them.

An appropriation of $400 was also made for the improvement of
Itasca State Park, to be expended by the park commissioner, under
the direction of the state auditor. Permit me to state that all ap-
propriations hereafter made should provide that the commissioner
have authority to expend the several sums appropriated, as he certain-
ly has more knowledge concerning improvements needed (he being on
the ground) than a man sitting in the state capitol at St. Paul who
has never seen the park, especially as the commissioner has to furnish
vouchers for everything before the auditor will draw his warrant.

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ITASCA STATE PARK. 171

It also seems to me that your commissioner should be put under bonds
for the faithful performance of his duty in order to protect the state
from loss.

This small sum of $400 for improvements in the park for a term
of two years was expended as follows, to wit :

IN THE YEAR 1899.

For repairing the state house, and putting in a force pump
and other minor improvements in and around the state

building $74.00

Paid to my predecessor, A. A. Whitney, for lumber, which

he claimed to have used in the old log barn 25.00

For lumber, and labor on building woodshed at house 25.60

United States surveyor general for plats 10.00

For one second hand road scraper 3.00

For teams and labor on new road opened up in park 196.00

IN THE YEAR 1900.

For tools and repairing of same 9.25

For teams and labor on new road 57.01

Total $399.86

In addition to the above Gov. John Lind, after his visit to the
park in 1899, appropriated from his own funds the sum of $119.64,
for which your commissioner constructed a saddle trail, thirteen miles
long, inside the park, to some of the most interesting points.

You will therefore see from the above statement that consider-
able improvement was done with the limited means at hand, but
it is only in its crude state, and should be so improved that people
with teams or on bicycles could travel on these roads or trails.

In taking possession of the state house in the park in May, 1899,
I found it in such a condition that no respectable family could live
in it; but after expending the sum as above stated, and by perform-
ing most of the labor myself, such as painting and paperhanging, I
managed to put it in habitable shape inside for occupancy, but there
is still more needed. The building should be re-shingled and painted on
the outside, and a kitchen should be built; also, the cellar should be
properly stoned up, etc., and I therefore recommend that an appro-
priation for same be made.

I will respectfully recommend that appropriations be made by

172 ITASCA STATE PARK.

the coming legislature for improvements in Itasca State Park as
follows :

FOR THE YEAR 1901.

For addition to state house and repair and painting of

same $800.00

For employing men and teams to work on roads and trails

and other improvements necessary in park 2,500.00

For cutting out and clearing firebreak around the park.. 1,500.00
For the purchase of southwest quarter of section 35, town

144, range 36 2,000.00

For fencing around the park with wire fence and proper

gates at entrances 4,000.00

For the purchase of road tools . 75.00

For the purchase of eighteen row boats 360.00

For building a barn for the use of the commissioner's and

visitors' teams 500.00

FOR THE YEAR 1902.

For employing men and teams to work on roads and trails. $2,500.00
For repairs and painting of buildings, and additional tools. . 200.00

I have gone over these estimates very carefully, and I do not
believe I have asked one cent too much, and I hope the legislature
will make these appropriations.

In addition it will, I think, not be inconsistent at this time to
call the attention of the legislature to the terrible condition of the
road leading to the park, in Hubbard county, from Park Rapids, the
nearest railroad town, thirty miles distant. It is in such a bad shape
that at certain seasons of the year it is almost impassable, and the
Legislature should make some appropriation for the improvement of
same.

In conclusion, permit me to say that the salary as now paid by
the state to your resident commissioner, who is also acting as su-
perintendent, is a mere pittance for the responsibility and labor per-
formed by him. He not only has general charge of the park, prevent-
ing forest fires and protecting game on a tract of dense forest land
of thirty-five square miles, but he is also expected to entertain many
distinguished visitors, all for the small sum of $600 per annum, at a
location thirty miles from civilization and the nearest railroad town,

ITASCA STATE PARK.

173

and having: to freight everything needed over roads many times im-
passable.

I find, upon inquiry, that persons in other states performing a
similar duty receive from $2,500 to $4,000 per annum. I do not be-
lieve that the humblest clerk you have in the state capitol in St. Paul,
with all the advantages of city life and civilization, receives so small
a salary, and with no responsibility whatever, and I hope the coming
legislature will take notice of same, and increase the salary to an
amount commensurate with the responsible duties imposed by law.
All of which is respectfully submitted.

Your obedient servant

WM. P. CHRISTENSEN,
Commissioner Itasca State Park, Minnesota.

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182 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Beginning at an early date in the perfective period of Itasca
State Park, Hon. J. H. O'Neil of Park Rapids, Minn., became one of
its warmest advocates and supporters. The utter failure of Mr. Harry
Hazlett, member of the legislature for Hubbard county during the
session of 1899, to represent the interests of his county, placed that
business in the voluntary control of Mr. O'Neil during the entire ses-
sion as a delegated representative of Park Rapids business men inter-
ested in the success of the park. The Hazlett fiasco paved the way for
the election of Mr. O'Neil to the legislature for the session of 1901,
upon the especial issue that immediate action was necessary to rescue
the state park from the impending despoliation of lumbermen. During
the entire session of 1901, Mr. O'Neil was engaged in a battle to place
on the statutes of the state a law making a standing appropriation to
convert the land holdings of lumbermen at Itasca Lake to the uses of
the park. The continued opposition of Mr. J. F. Jacobson, chairman
of the committee on appropriations, made the result unsatisfactory
to friends of the park, but at the last moment Mr. O'Neil, by renewed
efforts, with the aid of Mr. Deming and Dr. L. W. Babcock, secured
a standing appropriation of $5,000.00 per annum for park purposes,
beginning April 13th, 1901.

During the debate on the O'Neil bill to establish a standing ap-
propriation for park purposes the statement was repeated that lum-
bermen were just commencing to cut their timber inside the bound-
aries of the park, leaving the slashings as a great menace to all ad-
joining park realty. With a characteristic wave of his gesticulating
arms Mr. Jacobson, chairman of the committee on appropriations,
exclaimed :

O, we have HEARD tha$t!

And it has been heard with a vengeance.

Itasca Lake, as these expressive lines for the perpetuation of his-
tory are written is flooded, closed to public use, a log boom for lum-
bermen, filled with millions of feet of floating timber with its sur-
roundings, including a logging dam on state park property near the

ITASCA STATE PARK. 183

outlet of Itasca Lake, converted to private uses with no adequate pro-
tection to public property whatsoever. The criminal law has been
openly violated by extended denudation of public park lands for vari-
ous logging roads leading to log landings on the shores of Itasca
Lake, asserted as a right to holders of land who are claiming an out-
let for timber products where public rights predominate, and where
park lands are indiscriminately damaged.

Xo prosecuting officer has in any manner defended the rights of
the state to an inalienable park establishment exempt by law from
private uses for private purposes.

Let no prosecuting officer escape the responsibility of openly per-
mitting the destruction of public property without compensation to
enhance the emoluments of a devastating lumber company.

Thousands of dollars in lawful fines for denuding park lands at
•Itasca Lake are collectible under the provisions of the park law.
Those fines will remain uncollected because lumber companies have
sufficient political influence to secure immunity from justice.

The destruction of the natural bed of the Mississippi at and below
the outlet of Itasca Lake which materially reduces the level of that
historically unique body of public water has been effected with the
connivance and consent of public officials.

A statement of the facts and the publication of documentary
evidences shall fix the responsibility for results which were long
feared and finally deplored by the true advocates of an incontaminated
state park established for preservation in its natural condition and
dedicated for the advancement of the public welfare of a free people.

The publication of those documentary evidences can only be
termed as indicating a critical period in the history of Itasca State
Park which could have been avoided by the exercise of official integrity
in the conscientious performance of public duties.

MARY H. GIBBS.

ACTING COMMISSIONER, ITASCA STATE PARK.
FEBRUARY-MAY, 1903.

THE CRITICAL PERIOD.

SUB-DIVISION THIRD.

Honorable Wallace B. Douglas was the Attorney General of
Minnesota from January 2, 1899, to March 31, 1904.

The Deming appropriation bill for Itasca State Park was ap-
proved April 20th, 1899, whereby was provided $21,000.00 to enable
the attorney general to institute condemnation proceedings for lands
held by lumbermen at and near the shores of Itasca Lake, one thous-
and dollars of which was for interest on any excess sum needed, ad-
ditional to the amount appropriated. Mr. Deming contemplated the
use of about double the amount appropriated by his bill and fully
provided for that contingency so that the attorney general could
proceed to rescue the park from the grasp of advancing lumbermen.
The explicit terms of Mr. Deming 's proviso placing extraordinary
powers at the discretion of the attorney general will be found in sec-
tions three and four of the act approved April 20th, 1899.

On Thursday, August 10th, 1899, Governor John Lind and At-
torney General W. B. Douglas arrived at the southeast extremity of
Itasca Lake accompanied by Judge "William Mitchell and the author
of this volume, for the purpose of executing the terms of the Deming
park law. The party spent three days in an examination of the lands
to be converted to park purposes, reaching an agreement to proceed
forthwith, first by a detailed examination of timber lands at the park
and then additional proceedings to enforce the terms of tfye Deming
law. Governor Lind was the first executive to visit Itasca Lake and
he was enthusiastically in favor of immediate action to preserve the

186 ITASCA STATE PARK.

beauties of Itasca Basin from a threatened denudation of forested
areas.

On the 5th day of October the following telegraphic message was
received :

St. Paul, Minn., Oct. 5, 1899.
J. V. Brower,
T. S. Finney,

Park Eapids, Minn.

Go ahead and make estimate as agreed with the governor.

W. B. DOUGLAS,
Attorney General

Thereupon the work was proceeded with until completion and
comprehensively reported, showing the exact condition of all timber
lands at the state park. To enable the attorney general to possess
advance information a system of special reports describing shore
rights at Itasca Lake was inaugurated and continued until advices
directed a discontinuance of the same. The object of the special re-
ports was to enable the attorney general to proceed with the enforce-
ment of the terms of the Deming law at his earliest convenience.
After the final timber report was filed May 7th, 1900, Attorney Gen-
eral Douglas was thenceforward the legal and official authority in all
Itasca Park matters. By mutual consent all the friends of the park
depended upon his counsel and official action to so direct the affairs of
the park that it might be saved from an immediately impending
crisis. His authority over park matters was so complete that the
park commissioner often turned to him for advice and instructions.

One statement of importance is here made to indicate a true con-
dition of park matters at a fixed date : On the 7th day of May, 1900,
when the final timber report was filed with Attorney General Douglas
preparatory to the expenditure of $21,000.00, appropriated expressly
for the purpose of rescuing Itasca Lake and its beautiful shores from
the devastating grasp of rapidly advancing lumbermen, not a single
pine tree had been lumbered off the area of the state park. The waters
of Itasca Lake glistened in the sunlight and shadows of undisturbed
nature inviting participation in the divine privileges of depths and

ITASCA STATE PARK. 187

heights which surrounded the source and initial course of a Great
Kiver, awaiting the promulgation of the decree for perpetual preser-
vation or irreparable destruction.

Then it was that Attorney General W. B. Douglas had the author-
ity and the power to enforce a mandate established by law for the
natural preservation of Itasca State Park which Fortius C. Deming
caused to be placed in his official keeping. No act of contributory as-
sistance and co-operation by any true friend of the park was with-
neld from Mr. Douglas.

The first intense disappointment encountered wa& the neglect and
evasion precipitated against the offer of concession secured by Mr.
Deming from the Brainerd Lumber Company reducing the price of any
portion of its timber one dollar per thousand, or the whole of it in
one sale to the state at a reduction of two dollars per thousand feet.
An acceptance of that offer meant thousands of dollars saved to the
park funds and no lumbering operations by that company at Itasca
Lake.

The offer was not accepted.

Years have passed and any final adjustment of that estate as an
entirety has been held in continued abeyance.

It is here proposed to publish in consecutive order official docu-
ments which show the progress of events resulting in the destruction
of state property at Itasca Lake and the conversion of park lands to
the uses of lumbermen.

January 9th, 1901, Hon. John Lind retired from the office of gov-
ernor and Hon. Samuel R. Van Sant was inaugurated as his successor
in office. Governor Van Sant is one of the most extensive shippers of
logs in Minnesota. He is the third governor of the state directly en-
gaged in logging operations. Under circumstances of that kind he
could hardly be expected to officially champion timber preservation
or especially urge against adverse influences the segregation of valu-
able forest lands at Itasca Lake. He is credited with the statement,
often repeated, that he depended entirely upon Attorney General
Douglas in all matters relating to Itasca State Park. When he be-
came governor he soon appointed Mr. John P. Gibbs as park commis-

188 ITASCA STATE PARK.

sioner to succeed William P. Christensen. He also appointed Mr. M.
A. Spooner, of Bemidji, as judge of the district court for the fifteenth
judicial district. When Park Commissioner Gibbs resigned his com-
mission in 1903, the governor directed Mary Gibbs, the ex-commis-
sioner's daughter, to take charge of the park until a new park com-
missioner was appointed.

In April, 1903, Mr. C. E. Bullard was appointed park commis-
sioner to succeed Mary Gibbs. Mr. Bullard ? s term of office will not
expire until 1905.

OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS.

Extract from biennial report of Attorney General Douglas for
1900. p. xxx :

At the session of 1899, the legislature appropriated the sum of
twenty thousand dollars for the purpose of perfecting title in Itasca
State Park to lands not owned by the state. For the purpose of ex-
amining certain lands, His Excellency, Governor Lind, Hon. William
Mitchell and the attorney general visited Itasca Park in the summer
of 1899. A large portion of the lands of the park were examinee!,
and all the pine timber upon lands not owned by the state has since
been scaled at the instance of the governor, by Hon. J. V. Brower and
T. S. Finney, a very perfect and detailed report of which is in posses-
sion of this office. The purchase at the expense of $1,626, has been
made of one quarter section adjacent to the State House in the park,
upon which is contained a large quantity of pine. Negotiations are
pending and nearly completed, with Hon. John S. Pillsbury, for a
large portion of lands owned by him. The laws with reference to the
protection of game in the park are very imperfectly drawn, and I
suggest that a new enactment be made prohibiting the carrying of
loaded firearms, and the hunting or shooting of deer, in the park or
within one-half mile from the outer limits thereof.

Ditto Page XXXIII.

Existing laws applicable to the killing of game in Itasca State
Park are extremely defective. I beg to call attention thereto, and

ITASCA STATE PARK. 189

recommend that an act be passed prohibiting the carrying of loaded
firearms or the hunting or killing of game or game birds of any char-
acter within the general boundary limits of the park, and also within
one-half mile of the outer limits thereof.

Extract from biennial report of Attorney General Douglas, 1902,
p. XXXIII.

Under the authority conferred by the legislature, and with the
approval of the Governor, I purchased certain lands situated in the
park of Hon. John S. Pillsbury during his lifetime, and subsequent to
hrs death obtained title thereto in the name of the State of Minnesota.
The lands were purchased on the basis of two dollars per acre, and
the further sum of five dollars and fifty cents per 1,000 for all pine
situated thereon (white or Norway). The lands are described as fol-
lows :

Lots one, four, five and nine of section 13, east half of northeast
quarter and northwest quarter of northeast quarter in section 28 ; and
lots one and four in section 15 ; all in township 143, range 36.

I have also purchased, by and with the approval of the Governor,
what is known as the Rust property, consisting of three acres of
ground and house situated thereon, in section 2 in said township, for
the sum of nine hundred dollars.

I have also caused to be condemned the north half of southwest
quarter and lots one and two of section 35, township 144, range 36,
which was attached to Itasca Park, and made a part thereof by chap-
ter 5 of the laws of 1901. The transaction has been recently closed up
and the title obtained in the name of the state, in consideration of the
amount fixed by the commissioners in the condemnation proceedings
referred to, to-wit, $1,200.

At the session of 1901 the legislature appropriated for the use of
this department the sum of one hundred dollars for the purpose of
experimenting in the planting of pine in Itasca Park. The subject
has been given careful consideration and the appropriation expended.

Based upon the results obtained from certain experiments made
in the spring of 1901, I caused to be transplanted in March, 1902, ten
thousand Norway pine aggregating in height from six to twelve

190 ITASCA STATE PARK.

inches. They were taken from places in the park where young pine
may be found by the thousands, and transplanted in barren places. I
followed closely the recommendations of J. M. Underwood, Esq., of
Lake City, who has had wide experience in the matter of transplant-
ing pine, and also after consultation with Prof. Green of the Agricul-
tural Experiment Station. The trees were transplanted early in
March, were slightly watered and invariably placed in the shade of a
small shrub or tree. Care was taken that the roots should be exposed
to the air but a very short period of time. The result of the expendi-
ture of the one hundred dollars referred to of the state's bounty is that
from seventy-five to eighty per cent of the trees so transplanted are
now living.

During the spring of 1901 the Canadian Government presented
to the State of Minnesota three beaver, which I caused to be placed
in the park. They have thriven, and during the past year have built
two dams upon a stream in the park and prepared their winter quar-
ters and food for the coming winter.

Tfa^'Tos^b'liave'been perfected during the past year by the park
commissioner, who has been extremely efficient.

Approximately $1,200 was realized by the state treasury from
sales of down timber in the park, which were made during the winter
of 1902 by tfee state auditor, the governor and myself. Pursuant to
authority conferred by chapter 82 of the laws of 1902, this amount was
placed in the special building fund to be used in constructing a state
house in the park. Later a trespass was made by employes of Messrs.
Bonness & Company, and eighty-seven thousand feet of Norway' pine
situated in the park was cut, I made a settlement with this firm for
such trespass on the basis of their paying into the state treasury $11
per thousand for the pine so cut (being double its market value) with
the understanding that the timber so cut should be left in the park.
Subsequently a foreman of this firm removed such timber and the
claim for its value is still unsettled.

Arrangements have been made by the park commissioner under
the direction of this office and with the approval of the governor, for
the sawing, during the coming winter, of rough lumber in sufficient

ITASCA STATE PARK. 191

amount and of the dimensions necessary to be used in the construction
of the new state house contemplated by the act of the legislature above
referred to. The owner of a portable mill in the neighborhood has
agreed to haul down timber from different parts of the park to the site
of such house and saw the same in the dimensions necessary for the

ATTORNEY GENERAL DOUGLAS' TREEPLANTER.

PACKAGE OF 1000 TREES DUG UP FROM ONE PORTION OF THE STATE PARK AND
PLANTED AT ANOTHER, 1903.

sum of $8.75 per thousand. Stone has been purchased for the house,
and thus a nucleus has been arranged upon an extremely economical
basis for carrying out the wish of the legislature.

In my judgment the purchase of all standing pine situated in the

192 ITA^A STATE PARK.

park is unnecessary and would be an idle waste of money. A careful
examination shows that there are hundreds of places which the public
will never visit, and the pine in si*eh localities can be cut and removed
without injury. Care, however, should be taken that the tops of all
trees cut are burned, and a reasonable appropriation therefor should
be made.

The road from the state house in Itasc& r&rk to Park Rapids runs
for a distance of three miles just east of 0d near the line of the park,
across sections 20, 29 and 32 of townpfaip 143, range 35, in Hubhjard
county, through a beautiful strip of pine which clearly ought to be
m&de a part of the park. I therefore earnestly recommend that the
\vest half of the west half of the west half of said sections, being a
strip eighty rods wide, be attached to and made a part of the park.
I have made arrangements with the owners of the pine situated on the
^bove tract to refrain from cutting the same until after the next
meeting of the legislature.

The proposal in Attorney General Douglas' Report that "the
purchase of all standing pine situated in the park is unnecessary and
would be an idle waste of money " was an attempt to abrogate and
make nugatory that portion of the park law which declares that the
park shall be maintained forever in a state of nature.

Itasca, Minn., Dec. 10, 1901.
To his Excellency, S. R. Yan Sant,

Governor of Minnesota.

Sir: I have the honor to herewith present my first annual re-
port, in compliance with the provisions of section six, chapter 106,
general laws of 1895.

During the past year I have been active in protecting the game
«an4 fiifo within the park limits by warning off all hunters and poach-
ers, also by posting 100 park notices within and around the park,
thereby defining the outer lines of the park as much as possible with
so few notices, which I did not receive until November 5th, just five
days before hunting season opened.

During the hunting season it is very difficult for your commis-
sioner to look after this vast estate alone and protect the game. T
therefore recommend four assistants during the hunting season. At

ITASCA STATE PARK. 193

least two are needed the year around. In the month of November I
made three arrests and had the guilty parties prosecuted as provided
by law.

I have been entirely successful in keeping the park timber from
being destroyed by fire, but unless the coming legislature makes pro-
vision for clearing and making a firebreak at least 100 feet wide around
the park and disposes of the dead and down timber within the park, it
will be very difficult to protect it in the future, as there are many
logging camps in the near vicinity, and that generally indicates forest
fires in the spring or coming dry season.

During the past year the park has been visited, by about 300 tour-
ists and sightseers, many having traveled several thousand miles for
the purpose of visiting the headwaters of the Mississippi.

I received from Timothy O'Leary of Canada, on August 1, 1901,
three live beaver, which we located on Schoolcraft Island. They did
some work there and then emigrated to Nicollet Lake and seem to be
doing well.

During the past year I have had several men and teams employed
improving six miles of the new park road by removing stumps and
roots and constructing 500 rods of ditching and fourteen culverts.
Seven miles of wagon trails have been cut to the observation towers.

I have also had the underbrush cut and cleared around Elk Springs
and vicinity making it more approachable to park visitors, yet pre 1
serving their natural charm, making them a beautiful and interesting
scene.

The state park house has also been much improved by a coat of
paint on the interior and two coats of white lead on the exterior. The
underbrush has also been removed from around the park house and
lake front, adding greatly to the attraction of the park in general.

An appropriation of $600, was made by the legislature for two
years each, for the maintenance of Itasca Park, to be expended under
the direction of the State Auditor. The same was expended as follows:

For painting and repairing park house $75.75

For labor and team work on roads 426.50

Tools for road work 21.35

Labor of cutting trails and ditches 76.40

Total $600.00

At the last session of the legislature an act was passed annually
appropriating the sum of five thousand dollars out of any money in

194 ITASCA STATE PARK.

the state treasury not otherwise appropriated to be expended by the
attorney general in accordance with provisions of chapter 303, gen-
eral laws of 1899, to facilitate and completely accomplish the con-
demnation and conversion of lands and parcels of real property situ-
ated at Itasca Park for permanent park purposes.

An appropriation of $50 per year for two years was made by
the legislature to be expended under the direction of Attorney Gen-
eral Douglas for planting and earing for pine in Itasca Park. The
latter part of April as an experiment in forestry, I transplanted twen-
ty-five white pine and Norway seedlings. Some were shaded, some
partly shaded, while some were wholly exposed to the sun. I found
those that were partly shaded to survive and do much the best.
Eighty per cent of the trees are now alive. In order that I might
give them a more thorough test I planted eight ounces of white pine
seed, which should produce at least 5,000 seedlings. The seed was
planted in different kinds of soil which will give them a thorough test.

The towers or platforms donated to the state by the U. S. Gov-
ernment as was provided by sections three and four, chapter 215,
general laws of 1901, have been painted with two coats of white
lead, cabled, anchored and braced to preserve them from wind and
decay. Precaution has also been taken to protect them from destruc-
tion by fire, by cleaning the underbrush from around them. The
$280 appropriated to be expended in preserving the towers as above
stated was expended as follows :

White lead and oil $118.75

Anchor wire 6.00

Painting 65.00

Paint brushes 6.00

Labor for bracing and anchors 41.25

Team work 21.00

Labor for clearing underbrush 22.00

Total $280.00

In October, Hon. J. V. Brower, Father of Itasca State Park, visited
the park in company with Mr. J. B. Chaney of the Historical Society.
Mr.. Brower takes a great interest in the park and I think is deserv-
ing of great praise for his past successful efforts in keeping the park
from being a failure.

In conclusion I will say as my predecessor has said before me that
the salary as now paid by the state to your commissioner who is also

ITASCA STATE PARK. 195

acting as superintendent is much too small for the labor and respon-
sibility performed by him. He not only has charge of the park in gen-
eral, preventing forest fires and protecting the game on this vast
tract of forest land thirty-five square miles in extent, but is also
expected to entertain many distinguished guests, all for the small
sum of $600 per annum. I would therefore take the liberty to recom-
mend an increase of salary amounting to $2,500 per annum and hope
the coming legislature will take notice of same.

All of which I respectfully submit.

Your obedient servant,

J. P. GIBBS,
Commissioner of Itasca State Park.
FIRST STUMPAGE CONTRACT- ITASCA STATE PARK LANDS.

ARTICLES OP AGREEMENT, Made and entered into this 17th
day of December, A. D. 1901, by and between S. R. Van Sant, Governor,
W. B. Douglas, Attorney General and R. C. Dunn, State Land Com-
missioner, for and in behalf of the State of Minnesota, party of the
first part, and P. W. Bonness, of Minneapolis, Minnesota, and J. J.
Howe, of Brainerd, Minnesota, co-partners under the firm name of
Bonness & Company, parties of the second part, witnesseth:

That Whereas, John P. Gibbs, Commissioner of Itasca State Park
on the 5th day of December, 1901, reported in writing that he had
sold the down pine timber in the Itasca State Park to Bonness & Com-
pany for three dollars and fifty cents ($3.50) per thousand feet, bank
scale, subject to the approval of the state authorities, the said sale is
hereby ratified:

NOW THEREFORE, Whereas, the said party of the second part
have on this 17th day of December, A. D. 1901, entered into a contract
with the said party of the first part to enter upon, haul and remove
all the down pine timber being upon Sections 35 and 36, township
145, range 36, Beltrami County, Minnesota, in said Itasca State Park,
suitable for saw logs, during the logging season of 1901 and 1902,
and bank all such logs in the southwest corner of the east arm of
Lake Itasca.

It is further agreed, by the said parties of the second part, that
they will not cut, haul or remove any standing timber, nor cut, injure
or destroy any of the small standing timber.

It is further agreed, that such logging operations shall be con-
ducted under the directions of John P. Gibbs, Superintendent of said

196 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Itasca State Park, and confined to such parts of said park as he shall
select.

It is further agreed that the said party of the second part shall
mark or cause to be marked all logs cut, hauled or removed from
said described land with the stamp mark MIN, in addition to such
bark-mark or bark-marks 100 Ax which shall be selected by the said
party of the second part, and recorded in the name of the State of
Minnesota in the office of the surveyor general for the Second Lum-
ber District of Minnesota, and with no other marks.

It is further mutually agreed, by and between the parties of the
tirst part and the parties of the second part, that all such logs cut,
hauled and banked shall be scaled by the surveyor general of the
Second Lumber District of the State of Minnesota, and the expenses
of scaling shall be paid by the said party of the second part.

In consideration of the grant, privilege and permit to enter upon,
haul, remove and bank such down pine timber being upon and con-
tained within the boundaries of said Itasca State Park, the parties of
the second part hereby promises and agrees to pay or cause to be
paid to the treasurer of the State of Minnesota, at the end of the log-
ging season of 1901 and 1902, or as soon as the logs shall have been
scaled, at the rate of three dollars and fifty cents ($3.50) per thousand
feet of timber so cut, hauled and removed, in accordance with scale
made by the surveyor general of logs and lumber of the Second Dis-
trict for the payment of which we bind ourselves, our heirs, execu-
tors, administrators or assigns.

IN TESTIMONY WHEREOF, the said parties of the first part
and the said parties of the second part have hereunto set their hands
in duplicate the day and year first above written.

S. R. VAN SANT,

Governor.

W. B. DOUGLAS,

Attorney General.

R. C. DUNN,

State Land Commissioner.

BONNESS & CO.

In presence of:

Swan B. Molander,

Frank Rosehe.

The contract secured by Bonness & Company finally opened the
way for extensive damage to Itasca Lake and the state park. A

ORIGINAL DAM NEAR OUTLET OF ITASCA LAKE.

HONNESS & CO., 1902.

198 ITASCA STATE PARK.

common marauder named Wolf was placed in charge of the camp of
Bonness & Co. on the shore of Budd Lake. He proceeded to bridge
Mary Creek lengthwise with logs to construct a logging road, establish
two log landings on park land and stole about 250 logs from adjoin-
ing property, in the meantime stripping clean of all standing timber
49.35 acres of land at Schoolcraft Hill, finally leaving the southeast
extremity of Itasca Lake and its beautifully wooded shores selected as
the site of the new park house, about as a tempestuous cyclone would
make it appear. Wolf also constructed a logging dam immediately
below the outlet of Itasca Lake, which first flooded that body of
water in violation of the criminal law.

Itasca, Minn.,
Dec. 1st, 1902.

To his excellency S. R. Yan Sant, Governor of Minnesota.

Sir : I have the honor to herewith transmit this my second annual
report, pursuant to the provisions of section six, chapter 106, gen-
eral laws of 1895.

During the year I have been active in protecting the game and fish
within the park limits. The wild animals which were becoming almost
extinct, such as moose, bear, beaver and various other animals are
becoming quite numerous. Several moose and bear have been seen
in the park during the last year. From the three beaver that were
placed in the park a little more than a year ago have sprung quite
a colony of workers that have built two large dams, one at the out-
let of Nicollet Lake 196 feet long and forty-two inches in height, and
one across Nicollet Creek fifty-eight feet long and thirty-two inches
high, thereby converting the low ground into a small lake. They
have also built several houses on Nicollet Lake for their winter use.

As an experiment in forestry I transpanted 10,000 pine seedlings
of which about eighty-five per cent are alive and thriving. This
experiment in transplanting shows that the ydung pines can be culti-
vated with great advantage. The result of pine seeding of last year
was not satisfactory, but the small pine seedlings that spring up
naturally in all pine forests can be transplanted in more open ground
and can be used to reforest other lands that may be set aside for that
purpose.

A summer kitchen has been built in addition to the park house
and various other improvements have been made. Also have had
the dead underbrush, fallen trees and rubbish removed from School-
craft Island, it being one of the most interesting places in the park.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 199

It is now more approachable for park visitors. There were between
three and four hundred visitors at Itasca State Park this year. It is
fast becoming a resort for those who are seeking health, recreation^
pleasure and knowledge. If the legislature will but show a little
generosity towards the improvements needed in the park it will be
only a matter of a short time when the park will not only be visited
by hundreds, but thousands of people every year. Large parties come
every year to camp on the banks of the numerous beautiful lakes under
the majestic pines. Itasca Park in the romantic region about the head-
waters of the Mississippi, one of the widest known rivers in the
world, is composed of the most picturesque and characteristic scenes
in the state.

The roads leading to the park house have been greatly improved
during the last year by removing stumps, roots and stones. I have
made several culverts and ditches and graded several rods of road
through the low places.

The sum of $600 as appropriated by the legislature for the main-
tenance of Itasca Park for the year 1902 was expended as follows, to-
wit :

For material and labor on kitchen $125.00

Paper and labor for dining room 10.65

Clearing Schoolcraft Island 35.00

Implements and repairs on same 49.40

Labor of men and teams on roads 379.95

Total $600.00

December 17, 1901, the state officials entered into a contract with
Bonness & Co. whereby some of the down timber in Itasca Park was
sold to the latter at $3.50 per thousand for which was turned over to
the state treasurer the sum of $1,241.76. The same was afterwards
appropriated by the legislature to be used for the benefit of Itasca
Park.

Some trespass was done in Itasca Park for which the parties were
fined the sum of $930.40.

In conclusion I will respectfully recommend that appropriations
be made by the coming legislature for improvements in Itasca Park
as follows, to-wit:

For men and teams on roads and trails $2,500.00

For increase of commissioner's salary 1,200.00

Also for four assistants during the hunting season and two during

200 ITASCA STATE PARK.

the remainder of the year, to be under the instructions of your super-
intendent or commissioner at $30 per month.

I am sure I have not asked one cent too much and sincerely hope
the legislature will make these appropriations.
All of which I respectfully submit.

Your obedient servant,

JOHN P. GIBBS,
Commissioner, Itasca Park.

DUPLICATE AGREEMENT.

This AGREEMENT, made in duplicate and entered into this 29th
day of Jan. 1903, by and between J. P. Gibbs, of Beltrami County,
Minn., party of the first part, and BONNESS & COMPANY, of Brain-
erd and Minneapolis, party of the second part, WITNESSETH ;

The party of the first part is the owner and in possession of tne
certain tract of land situate in the county of Beltrami, State of Min-
nesota, described as follows, towit:

These are logs that come off the State Park, and are now delivered
on Itasca Lake.

The party of the first part, in consideration of the convenants of
the party of the second part herein contained, and of the sum of
four hundred dollars ($400) to him in hand paid by the party of the
second part, the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged and of the
payments to be made by the party of the second part as hereinafter
set forth, doth hereby grant, bargain, sell and convey unto the party
of the second part all fifty thousand feet or more of the White Pine,
Norway Pine and Spruce timber suitable for saw logs now standing or
being on the above described land with the privilege in and to the
party of the second part to enter upon said land for the purpose of
cutting and removing the same.

And for the same consideration the party of the first part doth
hereby agree to cut, haul, bank and deliver to the party of the second
part, during the logging season of the winter of 1902 and 1903, all the
saw logs that can be made from the timber above specified, now stand-
ing or being on the above described land, at the agreed price of ten dol-
iars ($10.00) per thousand feet, all such logs to be banked on Itasca
Lake in Beltrami County, Minn., and boomed-rolled into water by said
party of the first part in the spring after the same are scaled, the
second party is to furnish all the necessary boom chains; all logs
to be of sufficient size to scale six or less to the thousand feet ; and to
be well trimmed, properly measured and cut into proper lengths and

ITASCA STATE PARK. 201

stamped with at least three (3) impressions on each end with stamp to
be furnished by said second party, and bark marked thus: ICI, and
such stamping and bark marking is to be done by said first party
before such logs are hauled.

The party of the second part, in consideration of the covenants of
the party of the first part herein contained, and of the sale of the
timber above specified and delivery of the logs above mentioned, in all
respects according to the terms, provided, that the said first party
delivers all such timber and logs to the party of the second part
with good title, free and clear of and from any and all liens and
charges whatsoever, and it is especially agreed that the last install-
ment or payment above mentioned shall not be payable so long as any
lien or charge whatsoever shall be or remain upon or against any such
timber or logs.

All such logs shall be scaled by the surveyor general of the 2nd
lumber district, or his deputy, and each party hereto shall pay one-half
the scale bill. The said first party is to furnish everything necessary
for the proper cutting, hauling, booming and marking of such logs,
except the necessary boom chains and log stamp.

Balances to be paid when logs are properly bark-marked, stamped,
boomed and scaled.

It is understood and agreed by and between the parties hereto
that this contract shall be in all respects binding upon and available to
their respective heirs, executors, administrators or assigns.

In Testimony Whereof, The said parties do hereunto set their
hands the day and date first above written.

J. P. GIBBS, (Seal),
BONNESS & CO.. (Seal),
By W. M. Jay.

Executed in presence of
A. R. Batcheller.

STATE SENATE PROCEEDINGS.

March 19th, 1903.

Senator E. B. Wood introduced the following:

Whereas, a logging dam has been constructed across the Missis-
sippi River at the outlet of Itasca Lake on Itasca Park lands, and the
north arm of said lake is now a logging boom for private parties con-
trary to the statute in such ease made and provided,

Resolved that the Finance Committee ascertain and report at
once what action is necessary to protect the rights of the state and the

202

ITASCA STATE PARK.

inviolate stability of the Itasea State Park from damage and destruc-
tion by flooding and by logging operations.

Resolved that the Attorney General is requested to furnish said
committee copies of all papers in his office relating to the construc-
tion of said dam and the unlawful use of Itasca Lake for logging
purposes.

The resolutions were unanimously adopted.

As soon as Senator Woods' resolutions had been referred for
action, Attorney General Douglas prepared the license to lumbermen

*'*^v^r

v** y'*£y.h, : " -*f$»»

MOUTH OF NICOLLET'S INFANT MISSISSIPPI.

FLOODED BY LUMBERMEN, 1903 AND 1904.

law, placing the same in the hands of Representative B. S. Bennett
for introduction as H. P. No. 732, March 24, 1903. The bill was
referred to the committee on parks. When it came up for considera-
tion in committee three persons were present deeply interested in
the provisions of the bill. They were Attorney General Douglas urg-
ing license privileges in favor of lumbermen and Representative Dem-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 203

ing and the author of this history striving to protect the park from
destruction. Mr. Douglas and Mr. Deming rewrote the measure pro-
viding that no license should be granted without the signatory consent
of the President of the Minnesota Historical Society. While Alex-
ander Ramsey lived that provision was a safeguard against the
destructive influences which had gradually culminated as a dangerous
menace to the state park.

AN IMPORTANT LETTER.

Minneapolis, Minn., June 23, 1903.
Hon. W. B. Douglas, Attorney General, St. Paul, Minn.,

My Dear Sir : I visited Itasca Park last month for the purpose of
determining in my own mind the particular places most necessary to
secure with the appropriations now available. Logging operations
having at last reached it, the time has come when we must take what
we can get and make as judicious choice as possible to the end that
the spots of particular interest and beauty, shall be preserved. Of
course we all hope that most of the lumbermen will not cut over their
land for several years yet but when we see millions and millions of
feet already in the lake brought from half a dozen different points we
must realize most fully that in order to make sure of some few tracts
of great importance every moment's delay is dangerous.

It is thirteen years since the original limits of the park were estab-
lished, and at intervals during all that time attempts have been made
to negotiate with Mr. Walker, Mr. Weyerhaeuser and others. These
attempts have for the most part failed and they have generally admit-
ted that they "did not think we could get together." Now in my
mind it will be absolutely impossible to do anything with Mr. Walker
or with Mr. Weyerhaueser. It would probably be the same way with
Mr. Shevlin. You know how long it took to accomplish the Pills-
bury deal, three or four years. If we open negotiations with some
of the others, we shall only find that* we have wasted valuable time.
If we buy of them at private sale (were it possible), the prices and esti-
mates will be so high that the public will criticize us. If we con-
demn, they will have no such ground for criticism, whatever the
result. Besides, the tracts we need most are so divided in owner-
ship that that is the only course to follow in order to get what we
need most and that only.

The tract of land around the east end of Itasca Lake it would be
a positive calamity to lose. That is the site for your new house and

CEDAR FOREST AT BOUTWELL CREEK.

SUBJECT TO OVERFLOW FROM LOGGING DAM.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 205

from that point paths will radiate to other points. The most accessible
and the nearest picturesque region measuring from the new site is the
"Mary Valley" region. I traversed its entire length. It is all private
land, the lakes not being meandered. Mary Lake itself is a beauty
fringed with handsome pine. So is Deming Lake (formerly called
Danger Lake). It is in this region that the United States Govern-
ment built the platform upon the highest point of the park.

Another desirable tract is the Walker tract just north of the
Pillsbury acquisition. Still another is the tract which takes in Nicol-
let's Middle Lake, and the 40 acres cornering on it. This latter 40, I
believe adjoins 120 acres which you purchased of Pillsbury in the same
location.

As to the strip of land which was added to the park last winter,
the five northern forties are very pretty but the others are exceedingly
poor and it seems to me that nothing can be gained by buying them
now at any price. I think Mr. Brower's suggestion that if the upper
forties are secured that some adjoining land on the west should be
secured also, is a good one.

But you will of course pardon me (you said you would) for
presuming to make suggestions. Possibly no one save yourself and
Mr. Brower has taken such an interest in the park as I have. Four
years ago last winter I secured the $20,000 appropriation and have
devoted my thought to the purpose of saving the original limits of the
park as far as possible in a state of nature. And I feel that now, with
the $40,000 or so which will soon be available, we can secure the
choicest spots if we act at once. We made a good beginning when you
got the Pillsbury land but the results would be practically nullified if
we should permit the beautiful hills and valleys around Mary Lake
and the east end of Itasca to be cut over.

So, General Douglas, will you pardon me for asking you to begin
proceedings to acquire the land, following practically the order of
the numbers in the accompanying list?

If you will do this, I have not a particle of doubt but what the
next legislature will make another appropriation for I never saw a
proposition that appealed to the "rank and file" of that body more
strongly than the matter of securing the timbered land in that park.
1 would further suggest that if you have an arrangement witn Mr.
Snyder to buy certain tracts of the Pillsbury land, that perhaps they
will wait another season for part of it if there is not money enough.
1 mention this on the assumption that some of his land may not be as

206

ITASCA STATE PARK.

important to the beauty of the park as is most of that in the accompany-
ing list.

I am only anxious to be of assistance to you in this matter and
will be glad of any criticisms you may make on my " advice/' I also
wish you to understand that I highly appreciate your interest in the
park. You have so many important matters on your hands that it is
a wonder that you have been able to devote so much attention to it.
However, a great deal depends on you now. This is a critical time for

VIEW OVERLOOKING MARY CREEK FOREST.

Itasca. We must act quickly and seize the choicest treasures ere the
lumbermen, swooping down, as the Assyrians, "like the wolf on the
fold" get the start of us.

I want to see it recorded in the "History of Itasca Park", which
Mr. Brower is now writing, for the Historical Society, that w*> have
done the best possible with the means at our command.

Sincerely yours,

P. C. DEMING.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 207

RESIGNATION AND DEATH.

Hon. S. R. Van Sant,

Governor of State of Minnesota.

Sir: Please acknowledge this as my resignation as commissioner
of Itasca State Park. I am unable to fulfill the duties of that office
longer on account of failing health.

I have no recommendation to make.

Respectfully yours,

J. P. GIBBS,
Commissioner of Itasca State Park.
Feb. 14, 1903.

129 West 4th St., St. Paul, Minn.
Ex-Commissioner Gibbs died at St. Paul, Minn., Monday night,
February 16th, 1903.

RELATION OF MARY H. GIBBS.

Immediately after the death of John P. Gibbs, Governor Van
Sant verbally directed Mary H. Gibbs, daughter of the deceased com-
missioner, to take charge of Itasca State Park. She so stated the in-
formation to the present author. As acting commissioner of the park,
Miss Gibbs undertook to prevent the lumbering companies which had
log booms in Itasca Lake from criminally damaging park property
by flooding the shore lines of Itasca and Elk lakes to the great damage
of growing trees, shrubbery, evergreens, cedar and tamarac forests,
meadows, creeks and camping resorts. As the accredited representa-
tive of the state she took possession of the dam in April, 1903, hoisted
the gates and proceeded to let off the floods which seriously affected
a large quantity of beautifully wooded park lands including the shore
line of Schoolcraft Island.

Judge M. A. Spooner of the 15th Judicial District, having juris-
diction over lands of the state park at Itasca Lake, omitting to take
judicial knowledge that the boom company were trespassers upon
park lands which were protected from damage by law, enjoined Mary

THE GIBBS LUMBER CAMP, 19U3.

EAST SHORE. EAST ARM OF ITASCA LAKE.

Official correspondence in the State Auditors office indicates that David Gibbs,
son of Park Commissioner J. P. Gibbs. under the illegal contract with
Bonness & Co., cut and sold quantities of timber from park lands. No
prosecutions are of record for that criminal offense.

THE GIBBS LOG LANDING, 1903.

EAST SHORE, EAST ARM OF ITASCA LAKE.

After Gibbs had cut the timber on State Park lands and sold the logs to Bonness
& Co., the camp was dismantled and abandoned. Messrs Deming and
Brower examined the logs and photographed the camp and landing where
many green trees had been cut and marketed.

210 ITASCA STATE PARK.

H. Gibbs from performing her official duties in protecting and defend-
ing the rights and property of the state as follows:

(COPY.)

STATE OF MINNESOTA, ) DISTRICT COURT,

^ ss
COUNTY OF CLEARWATER. J FIFTEENTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT.

THE MISSISSIPPI-SCHOOLCRAFT BOOM &

IMPROVEMENT COMPANY, Plaintiff.

vs.
MARY GIBBS, Defendant.

The state of Minnesota, to the defendant, Mary Gibbs:
WHEREAS, the plaintiff, The Mississippi-Schoolcraft Boom & Im-
provement Co. has filed a petition in the district court of Clearwater
county, praying, among other things, that a temporary writ of in-
junction issue, restraining, enjoining and forbidding the said defendant,
her servants and agents, during the pendency of this action, and until
the further order of this court, from, in any manner, interfering with
the plaintiff, or its employes, in operating the dam, or conducting its
business upon and along the Mississippi river, at Section 35, Town-
ship 144, Range 36, county of Clearwater, and state of Minnesota, and
restraining and enjoining and prohibiting the defendant, her agents
and servants, from, in any manner, obstructing or hindering the plain-
tiff in operating said dam and driving and floating said logs out of
said Lake Itasca and the Mississippi river, where the same floats
through said section, as aforesaid, and enjoining and restraining
and forbidding the said defendant, her servants and agents from, in any
manner, interfering with, or threatening any of the employes of the
said plaintiff, while engaged in the performance of plaintiff's work
on said stream, lake and dam, and enjoining, restraining and prohibit-
ing the said defendant from, in any manner, molesting or destroying
any of the dams or other property of the said plaintiff, in any manner,
used in the carrying on the business of sluicing, floating and driving
logs thereon, or, in any way used or employed by said plaintiff, in
conducting its business on or along said stream or on said lake.

And whereas, the said injunction has been ordered and allowed
by Judge of the 15th judicial district (M. A. Spooner), Beltrami

ITASCA STATE PARK. 211

county and state of Minnesota, on the filing of a bond, duly approved,
which has been done :

NOW, THEREFORE, You, and each of you, the said Mary Gibbs,
her servants and agents, and appointees, defendant, are hereby com-
manded and enjoined to forthwith to refrain from, and are prohibited
from continuing any of the acts, herein mentioned, and especially from,
in any manner interfering with the said plaintiff, or its agents, em-
ployes, in operating its said dam, upon the said Mississippi river, sec-
tion 35, township 144, range 36, in the county of Clearwater, Minne-
sota, in floating and driving logs through said dam and along said
river, and enjoining, restraining and prohibiting the said defendant
from interfering with or threatening any of the employes of the said
plaintiff, while engaged in the performance of plaintiff's work, at said
dam, as aforesaid, and restraining, enjoining and forbidding the said
defendant from patrolling the banks of said stream in the vicinity of
the said dam, or, in any manner whatever from molesting, or, in any
manner, interfering with any person engaged in or along said stream,
in the said plaintiff's business, during the pendency of said action or
until the further order of this court herein.

And, this information, you will observe, under the penalty of the
law.

Witness The Honorable M. A. Spooner, Judge of the District
Court aforesaid, at Bagley, Minn., this 20th day of April, A. D. 1903.

E. H. REPF,

Clerk.
Seal of Court.

STATE OF MINNESOTA, J DISTRICT COURT,

COUNTY OF CLEARWATER. [ FIFTEENTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT.

THE MISSISSIPPI-SCHOOLCRAFT BOOM &

IMPROVEMENT COMPANY, Plaintiff.

vs.
MARY GIBBS, Defendant.

Upon reading and filing the complaint of the plaintiff in said
action, and the affidavits accompanying the same, all hereto attached,
and upon filing a bond in the sum of $500 this day approved by me,
made and executed by the plaintiff in said action, to the defendant:

212 ITASCA STATE PARK.

IT IS ORDERED, that a temporary writ of injunction issue in
said action as prayed for in the complaint therein.
Dated April 20, 1903.

M. A. SPOONER,
Judge of the 15th Judicial District,

Bemidji, Minnesota.

STATE OP MINNESOTA, } DISTRICT COURT,

COUNTY OF CLEARWATER, j FIFTEENTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT.

THE MISSISSIPPI-SCHOOLCRAFT BOOM &

IMPROVEMENT COMPANY, Plaintiff.

vs.
MARY GIBBS, Defendant.

COMPLAINT.

The plaintiff complaining of the defendant alleges :

1. That the plaintiff herein now is and at and during all the times
hereinafter mentioned had been a corporation duly organized, created
and existing under the laws of the State of Minnesota and that said cor-
poration has during all the times since its organization, been engaged in
the driving and handling of logs by means of booms, dams and other
paraphernalia and apparatus in and along the Mississippi river, and
other rivers and waters, and during all such times has been duly author-
ized and empowered, under the law, to improve the said Mississippi
river, and other rivers, for the purpose of loading, handling and driving
logs therein, and to clear and straighten channels thereon, to erect
sluiceways, and by means of booms, and dams to do any and every other
act and thing authorized by law, to improve said stream and river to
operate its works so as to render the driving of logs therein practical,
and said plaintiff at all such times, and especially during the times
hereinafter stated was legally authorized to use the said Mississippi
river for the purposes aforesaid, and for all other lawful and proper
purposes for which boom companies are and may be organized under
the laws of the State of Minnesota.

2. That the said plaintiff for four successive seasons, including
the season of 1903, has been operating upon the said Mississippi river,
and other streams and waters in said county, in the manner as afore-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 213

said, and has, at a large expense, in a legal and proper way, improved
the said Mississippi river for the purpose of handling and driving logs
thereon, and the said stream, at all such times, has been a public high-
way for floating logs, timber and lumber thereon, as provided for and
contemplated by the laws and statutes of the State of Minnesota, and
especially by the plaintiff herein, which has done every act and thing
necessary by it to be done to acquire the right, and it has acquired the
right, under the law, to operate said stream as aforesaid.

That said plaintiff on or about the first day of April, 1903, caused
a sufficient force of men to be stationed at different points along the
Mississippi river, between Lake Itasca, in Clearwater County, and Lake
Irvine, in Beltrami County, to effect the prompt floating, driving and
booming of the logs on said river ; that in order to effect the floating,
driving and booming of said logs, it is absolutely necessary to obtain a
head of water on said river, by the use and operation of a system of
dams; that the plaintiff for that purpose has heretofore legally con-
structed and operated a number of dams between the points named, as
aforesaid, for the purpose of stopping the water in said river until there
is sufficient thereof above the dams to readily float the logs down said
river ; that one of the dams heretofore constructed, and now in full op-
eration, is situated about one half mile from Lake Itasca, in Clearwater
County, to-wit, on Section 35, Township 144 North, Range 36 West;
that said dam is necessary in order to float and drive said logs, and said
logs cannot be floated and driven without the use of the same; that
plaintiff has contracted to remove about nine million feet of logs now
in and upon Lake Itasca; that said lake is a portion of the public park
belonging to the State of Minnesota, and has been set aside by the legis-
lature of the State of Minnesota for park purposes ; that unless said logs
are removed from said lake great injury may be done effecting the
beauty and general usefulness of said park ; that as soon as the ice upon
said lake breaks up, so that logs can be driven thereon, it is the pur-
pose of plaintiff to immediately remove said logs from said lake and
float them down the Mississippi river; that on or about April 15, 1903,
the defendant, with strong hand and a multitude of people, approached
the employes of plaintiff and demanded that the sluice gates of said
dam be raised, so as to allow the water held in storage by said dam to
escape, thereby greatly impairing the usefulness of said dam and pre-
venting the driving and floating of said logs ; that on April 16, 1903, said
defendant again approached the employes of plaintiff, with strong hand

214 ITASCA STATE PARK.

and a multitude of people, maliciously and wrongfully threatened and
intimidated said employes and commanded them again to immediately
raise the gates of said dam, and allow the water to escape , that said de-
fendant brought with her, for the purpose of further intimidating,
alarming and searing said employes of plaintiff a large number of per-
sons, who in a loud boisterous and threatening manner, demanded that
said gates be raised, as aforesaid; that on account of threats of prosecu-
tion, made by the defendant, and those acting with and under her, as
well as the presence of the large number of persons there assembled,
the said employes of plaintiff were put in great fear of bodily harm;
that owing to the fear engendered in said employes, by said acts of de-
fendant, the work of said plaintiff, in floating, driving and sluicing said
logs is effectively impaired ; that at the present time, said defendant,
and a large number of persons, are almost continuously present at said
dam, demanding and threatening said employes to such an extent that
the driving, booming and sluicing of said logs is practically at a stand-
still; that unless the said acts of said defendant, and those acting with
her, are restrained and discontinued, the plaintiff will suffer great and
irreparable injury, for which it has no adequate remedy at law, said
defendant being insolvent.

WHEREFORE, plaintiff asks the judgment of this court :

1. For a permanent injunction against the said defendant forever
enjoining, restraining and prohibiting her from continuing any of the
acts herein mentioned and especially from in any manner interfering
with the said plaintiff, or its employes, in operating its said dam, upon
the said Mississippi river, in Section 35, Township 144, Range 36, in the
County of Clearwater, Minnesota, in floating, and driving logs through
said dam and along said river, and enjoining, restraining and forbid-
ding the said defendant from interfering with, or threatening any of
the employes of the said plaintiff while engaged in the performance of
plaintiff's work, at said dam as aforesaid, and restraining, enjoining
and forbidding the said defendant from patrolling the banks of said
stream, in the vicinity of the said dam, or in any mariner whatsoever
from molesting, or in any way interfering with any person engaged in
or along said stream in the said plaintiff's business.

2. Plaintiff asks and prays that a temporary writ of injunction
issue restraining, enjoining and forbidding the said defendant, her ser-
vants and agents, during the pendency of this action, and until the fur-,
ther order of the court, from in any manner interfering with the plain-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 215

tiff, or its employes, in operating its said dam, or conducting its busi-
ness upon and along: the Mississippi river, at Section 35, Township 144,
Range 36, County of Clearwater, and State of Minnesota, and restrain-
ing and enjoining and prohibiting the defendant, her agents and ser-
vants, from in any manner obstructing or hindering the plaintiff in
operating said dam, and driving and floating said logs out of said Lake
Itasca, and the Mississippi river, where the same floats through said
section, as aforesaid, and enjoining and restraining and forbidding the
said defendant, her servants and agents, from in any manner interfering
w T ith, or threatening any of the employes of the said plaintiff while
engaged in the performance of plaintiff's work on said stream, lake and
dam, and enjoining, restraining and forbidding the said defendant from
in any manner molesting or destroying any of the dams or other prop-
erty of the said plaintiff in any manner used in the carrying on of the
business of sluicing, floating or driving logs thereon, or in any way used
or employed by said plaintiff in conducting its business on or along
said stream or on said lake.

3. For such other and further and general relief as to the court
may seem just, proper and right under the circumstances.

4. For plaintiff's costs and disbursements herein.

L. H. BAILEY,

Attorney for Plaintiff,
Bemidji, Minnesota.

Dated, April 20, 1903.
STATE OF MINNESOTA,

COUNTY OF BELTRAMI, J

M. E. Thurston, being first duly sworn, upon oath says that he is
the superintendent of the plaintiff in this action ; that he has read the
complaint in said action, and that the foregoing complaint is true to
his own knowledge; that affiant makes this verification because plain-
tiff is a corporation and its other officers are absent from Beltrami
County, wherein affiant resides and now is.

M. E. THURSTON.
(Seal.)
Subscribed and sworn to before me this 20th day of April, 1903.

L. H. BAILEY,
Notary Public, Beltrami County, Minnesota.

216 ITASCA STATE PARK.

STATE OP MINNESOTA, 1 DISTRICT COURT,

COUNTY OF CLEARWATER, J FIFTEENTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT.

THE MISSISSIPPI-SCHOOLCRAFT BOOM &

IMPROVEMENT COMPANY, Plaintiff,

vs.
MARY GIBBS, Defendant.

STATE OF MINNESOTA, 1

i ss.
COUNTY OF BELTRAMI, J

SIDNEY CORNWELL, being first duly sworn, deposes and says
that he is an employe of the Mississippi-Schoolcraft Boom & Improve-
ment Company, which is engaged in driving logs on the Mississippi
river, and connecting lakes in Clearwater county, Minnesota; that
while he was peacefully attending to his duties, as employe of said
Company, on the 12th day of April, 1903, on the Mississippi river,
about one-half mile from Itasca Lake, one Mary Oibbs, in company
with one Theodore Wagmann, approached affiant, intimidated affiant,
and tried to compel him to raise the gates of that certain dam across
said river, at said place, for the purpose of sluicing logs on said river
and lake Itasca ; that said Mary Gibbs, with said Wagmann, the latter
pretending to be authorized by the former to act in the premises, com-
manded affiant to open said dam and threatened to arrest and prosecute
affiant if he did not comply with such demand ; that at the time said de-
fendant, and said Wagmann, thus intimidated affiant, affiant was work-
ing for said Boom & Improvement Company, and had charge of the
dam referred to ; that the river upon which affiant was working on said
logs of said Boom & Improvement Company, is a navigable stream of
sufficient size for driving and booming logs and timber, and which is
used for that purpose as a public highway for booming and driving
logs; that in order to expedite the booming and driving of logs on
said river, said dam is maintained by said Boom & Improvement Com-
pany and said dam is necessary to fully effect the driving of said logs
on said river and said lake Itasca; that on or about Wednesday, the
fifteenth day of April, 1903, defendant and other persons acting for
her, and with her, again presented themselves at said dam, where
affiant was still in charge of the same, and in a loud, threatening,
malicious and unlawful manner, commanded affiant, and those work-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 217

ing under him, to raise the sluice gates of said dam, and undertook,
without warrant of law, to arrest Mr. A. Woods, one of the employes
of plaintiff, who was then and there under the orders of affiant pro-
tecting the said dam, and the interests of said Boom <& Improvement
Company ; that by threats of prosecution and arrest said Mary Gibbs,
defendant, and those acting with her, greatly alarmed affiant, and
other employes of said Boom & Improvement Company, and did mater-
ially obstruct, by said threats and acts the navigation of said river, by
said Boom & Improvement Company, when engaged in driving logs
as aforesaid.

That on the 16th day of April, 1903, while affiant and other em-
ployes of said Boom & Improvement Company were peacefully and
lawfully performing their several duties in watching, protecting and
improving said dam, said Mary Gibbs, and other persons, including the
sheriff of Clearwater County, by force wrongfully removed affiant and
Joe Belmore, employes of said Boom & Improvement Company, to the
village jail at Bagley, Minnesota, in removing affiant and said Belmore,
said parties intimidated, maltreated and greatly alarmed affiant; that
said Mary Gibbs still threatens to interfere and prevent the driving
and logging of said Boom & Improvement Company upon said stream,
and she with those with her, continued to intimidate affiant, and other
employes of said Boom & Improvement Company by discharging fire-
arms and threatening to further prosecute affiant if he returns to his
work upon said dam ; that affiant is in fear of great bodily harm, unless
said defendant is restrained from further interfering with affiant,
while lawfully discharging his duties, at said dam for said Boom &
Improvement Company.

SIDNEY CORNWELL,
(Seal.)

Subscribed and sworn to before me this 20th day of April, 1903.

L. H. BAILEY,
Notary Public, Beltrami County, Minnesota.

STATE OF MINNESOTA, |

I ss.
COUNTY OF BELTRAMI, J

M. A. WOODS, being first duly sworn, deposes and says that he is
an employe with the Mississippi-Schoolcraft Boom & Improvement
Company, of Beltrami County, Minnesota, and was employed at all
times since and including the 15th day of April, 1903 ; that he has read

218 ITASCA STATE PARK.

the within and foregoing affidavit of Sidney Cornwell, and knows of
his own knowledge that the facts therein stated are true; that on ac-
count of the threats and acts of violence of said Mary Gibbs, he was
prevented from performing his duties as employe by said Boom &
Improvement Company, and on account of the continued threats of said
Mary Gibbs, he is still in fear of bodily harm from said Mary Gibbs,
and those acting with her, unless she is in some way restrained from
further and other acts of intimidation.

M. A. WOODS.
(Seal.)

Subscribed and sworn to before me this 20th day of April, 1903.

L. H. BAILEY,
Notary Public, Beltrami County, Minnesota.

Following is the law which was being forcibly violated in a crim-
inal manner when Judge Spooner, by his order of injunction, pre-
vented Mary H. Gibbs, acting park commissioner, from executing for
the benefit of the state the mandatory statute passed for the express
purpose of protecting the rights of the people in their park possessions
as required by the United States grant :

Any person who shall wilfully cut, destroy or mutilate, or who
shall cause to be wilfully cut, destroyed or mutilated, any tree, shrub,
timber, evergreen, or plants of any kind, or who shall kill, cause to be
killed, or pursue with intent to kill, any moose, bear, deer, fox, otter,
porcupine, mink, or other wild animal in said park, or who shall in
any other manner without the consent of the person in charge, and
then only with a hook and line held in the hand, take any fish from
the waters of said park, or who shall in any manner whatsoever take
or catch any fish in the waters of said park for the markets of the
state, or who shall in any maimer whatsoever raise or cause to be
raised, lower or cause to be lowered any of the lakes or streams with-
in said park, or the waters therein ; or who shall set, or cause to be set,
any fire therein ; or who shall in any manner whatsoever at any time
or place within said park, wilfully hunt and cause to be discharged
any firearms at any animal, bird, fowl, or fish, shall be guilty of a mis-
demeanor, and upon conviction thereof shall be fined for the first of-
fense fifty dollars ($50), for the second offense two hundred dollars
($200), and for the third or further offenses he shall be fined and im-
prisoned in the county jail not less than ninety days, nor more than
one year; and the provisions of this section shall apply to all manner

ITASCA STATE PARK. 219

of persons, including Indians. All offenses charged for misdemeanors,
as hereinbefore provided, shall be tried and determined under the Gen-
eral Laws of this state applicable to the trial of criminal actions in
like causes; and whenever the commissioner or other person shall
make complaint in writing to the district court, or a judge thereof,
setting forth that any said offenses have been committed, or are about
to be committed whereby any of the timber of said park has been
taken, or is about to be destroyed in any manner, it shall be the duty
of the district judge to promptly and without delay enjoin an order
of injunction against all trespassers who in any manner whatsoever
destroy or injure, or who are about to destroy or injure any of the
timber, trees, evergreens or shrubs within said park, belonging to or
under the control of the state.
Section 4, Itasca Park law.

As soon as Miss (Jibbs had been enjoined from protecting the
property of the state, she called loudly for help from the Attorney
General's office. Thereupon Mr. C. W. Somerby, assistant attorney
general, was dispatched to Itasca Lake to aid the park commissioner
in protecting the park from further damage.

The writer has no knowledge concerning the transactions by Mr.
Somerby. He has full knowledge of the fact that the lumbermen were
left in undisturbed possession of Itasca Lake, the river and the dam,
for the season of 1903 with no further interference with their oper-
ations and they have since remained in the full and free use of state
park property and waters to the exclusion of the public, and to great
and irreparable damage to public property by excessive backwater,
flooded shorelines, despoiled forests, ruined river-bed, unlawfully con-
structed logging roads and landings, dam excavations, and a general
destruction of the beautiful surroundings incident to the long undis-
turbed permanency of Itasca Lake.

On the 28th day of April, 1903, Mr. C. E. Bullard was appointed
park commissioner. He assumed the official duties of his office May
15th. His appointment was dictated by Mr. James Martin solely for

220 ITASCA STATE PARK.

political reasons. It is not surprising that his administration of park
affairs has been entirely passive and according to the disastrous policy
of Attorney General Douglas.

DOCUMENTS OF RECORD.

Of record in the Attorney General's office at St. Paul, Minn., the
following documents appear as official papers :

December 26, 1899, deed from Benjamin E. Mc Mullen to the state
for park lands , 155.75 acres of the McMullen ranch, consider-
ation $1,625.00

April 14, 1902, deed from Pillsbury executors and heirs to the
state for park lands/335 acres, in sections 13, 15 and 28, T. 143, R. 36,
consideration $17,379.94

October 17th, 1902, deed from Rust and Rust to the state for park
land, three acres of the McMullen homestead, consideration. . .$900.00

November 22, 1902, deed from Haven C. Stewart and wife to the
state for park lands, 152.80 acres, at the outlet of Itasca Lake, Sec.
35, T. 144, R. 36, consideration $1,200.00

[Lumbermen have full and free use of this property on which to
maintain a logging dam across the Mississippi to flood Itasca and Elk
lakes, which they constructed in the winter of 1903, cutting the stand-
ing pine trees on said land with which to construct the dam.]

A deed from the Great Northern Railway Co., for certain selected
swamp lands.

The report on timber estimates showing the Brower-Finney sur-
vey, 1899-1900.

An extended miscellaneous correspondence.

Transactions concerning the lands held by Thomas B. Walker
and the Walker-Keegan re-estimate of standing timber, over 2,000,000
feet in excess of the Brower-Finney estimate, or more than $12,000.00
additional against the state, almost wholly fictitious.

ATTORNEY GENERAL'S OFFICE DOCKET.

District Courts Clearwater County.

The Mississippi-Schoolcraft Boom & Improvement Company
vs. Mary Gibbs.

Attempt to restrain commissioner Itasca State Park from inter-
ference with dam at Lake Itasca.

April 21, 1903, Complaint, Order and Bond and Injunction made

ITASCA STATE PARK. 221

and served April 27, 1903. Petition and motion to dissolve injunction
made by plaintiff with consent of defendant.

A sawmill and lumber yard record.

New state house drafts and contract.

A CONVERSATION.

When the bill to license the use of Itasca Lake for lumbering: pur-
poses was drawn by Attorney General Douglas it contained a clause
permitting the governor to issue the license. In committee when that
bill was under consideration that clause was objected to, causing the
change which added the State Auditor and the President of the
"Minnesota Historical Society to a list of officials who were to have
power to license lumbering at the state park. The change was made
to defeat the purposes of indiscriminate license privileges as it W'as
not believed that the state auditor would consent to the use of park
lands for lumbering purposes, as he had general supervision of the
park for the state. It was also known that Hon. Alexander Ramsey
as president of the Historical Society would never sign any license.
Unfortunately he died soon after the bill became a law and John B.
Sanborn was elected as his successor. In September, 1903, the author
of this volume made application in person to General Sanborn re-
questing him to refuse his assent to any and all lumbering licenses at
the state park. His answer was explicit and direct, in substance as
follows: Mr. Brower, my son has just returned from a trip to Itasca
Lake and has informed me of the serious damages to the park by lum-
bering operations. I shall never sign any license for lumbering pur-
poses at the state park unless the Council of the Historical Society
shall first authorize such action, as I consider that I represent the
members of the council and as president act for them in such matters.

[Copy.]

WHEREAS, The Brainerd Lumber Company is the owner of cer-
tain land and the pine situated thereon, in the N-J of Section 4, Town-
ship 143 N. of Range 36 W., a large portion of which pine has been
cut; and is also the owner, in the aggregate, of seven hundred and

%#^'

•^it^c: . "™*mif$p' i %gw ! * K "'

FOUR VIEWS OF ITASCA LAKE, 1903.

CLOSED TO PUBLIC USE BY EXTENSIVE LOG BOOMS.

?<- "sfe.'. ' '"'

I^ESMHhBe Jill

^^^^^^^^^^m

l«llllllpl^^^s

FOUR VIEWS OF LOGGING DAM. 1903.

ON STATE PARK LAND BELOW OUTLET OF ITASCA LAKE.

224 ITASCA STATE PARK.

twenty-eight acres of land together with the pine situated thereon, in
sections 8, 18, 19, 20 and 30 in said Township, being outside of the
outer boundary limits of Itasca State Park; and,

WHEREAS, Prior to the adoption of Chapter 258 of the Laws of
1903, the said Brainerd Lumber Company constructed two logging
roads in said park, one across the NJ of sections 3 and 4 and the W|
of section 2, and the other across sections 15 and 21; and,

WHEREAS, The said Company has heretofore and will hereafter,
refrain from cutting certain pine owned by it and situated in said park
upon sections 24, 26 and 34 which it is important that the State should
purchase for the purpose of preserving the Park in the condition pre- •
scribed by various acts of the Legislature ; and,

WHEREAS, It appears there is no other practical means of re-
moving the timber owned by said Company situated outside of the
limits of said Park except by way of Itasca Lake and the Mississippi
River ;

NOW, THEREFORE, license is granted to the undersigned to
use the two logging roads above described and authority given said
Company to haul said timber so situated in said sections 4, 8, 18, 19, 20
and 30, over said roads, and deposit the same upon the ice in Itasca
Lake during the months of November and December, 1903, and Janu-
ary and February, 1904, and to float the same out of said lake by way
of the Mississippi River, at a date not later than fifteen days from and
after the melting and passing out of the ice from Itasca Lake in the
spring of 1904. By the acceptance of this license the Brainerd Lum-
ber Company agrees never at any time to raise the water in Itasca
Lake to a point where the water will do damage to the Park property
by means of the dam owned by it situated in the Mississippi "River,
and never at any time to close the said dam or attempt to do so during
the summer season, after the ice is melted and passes out of said lake ;
and also in consideration hereof agrees that the regulation and manage-
ment of the gates in said dam shall at all times be subject to the control
of the Park Commissioner of said Park.

PROVIDED, The Brainerd Lumber Company and the public
authorities of the State of Minnesota are prior to December 1st, 1903,
unable to agree upon the amount of pine situated upon the SW| of
SW| of section 11, and the W| NW£ of Section 14 in said Township,
and the authorities representing the said State fail to purchase the pine
situated thereon, or to institute condemnation proceedings for the pur-
pose of acquiring said land, prior to said date, the said Brainerd
Lumber Company is authorized and empowered to deposit upon the

ITASCA STATE PARK. 225

ice in Itasca Lake during December, 1903, and January, 1904, pine
which may be now growing thereon.

Given under our hands this 28th day of September, A. D. 1903.

S. R. VAN SANT,

Governor.
S. G. IVERSON,

State Auditor.
JOHN B. SANBORN,
President Minn. State Historical Society.

MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY.

St. Paul, Dec. 16, 1903.

A Special Meeting of the Executive Council of this Society is
hereby called, to be held in the Society's rooms in the State Capitol on
Monday evening, December 21, 1903, at eight o'clock, in accordance
with Section 22 of the By-Laws of the Council, to consider an appli-
cation of T. B. Walker for a license to deposit timber on the ice of
Itasca lake during the months of December, 1903, and January and
February, 1904, and to float the same down the Mississippi river in
the spring of 1904.

The state legislature, in the session of 1903, by a law relating to
the Itasca State Park, provided that such license may be granted by
the Governor and Auditor of the state and the President of this His-
torical Society. The President of the Society therefore calls this meet-
ing of the Council to give their advice on the question of granting this
license, and to transact any business that may properly come before
this meeting.

By order of the President.

WARREN UPHAM,

Secretary.

[Copied from the Secretary's Record by Councilor Chaney.]

< ' Special Meeting, Monday, Dec. 21, 1903.

A special meeting of the Executive Council was held this evening
at 8 o'clock, with President Sanborn in the chair.

This meeting had been called by the President, in response to a
written request by Councilors Brower, Pairchild, Langford, Kings-
bury and Chaney, to consider an application of Mr. T. B. Walker, of
Minneapolis, for a license to deposit timber on the ice of Itasca lake
during the months of December, 1903, and January and February,

226 ITASCA STATE PARK.

1904, and to float the same down the Mississippi river in the spring
of 1904. The state legislature, in the session of 1903, by a law re-
lating to the Itasca State Park, provided that such license may be
granted by the Governor and Auditor of the state and the President
of this Society. This meeting of the Council was therefore requested,
and was called, in accordance with the wish of the President of the
Society, that he might receive the advice of the Council on the ques-
tion of granting this license.

The following Councilors were present:

Governor Van Sant, and Hon. P. E. Hansen, Secretary of State,
ex-officio Councilors, and Brower, Chaney, Childs, Kingsbury, Lang-
ford, Metcalf, Sanborn, Stevens, ITpham, Warren.

Governor Van Sant spoke briefly of the reasons seen by himself
and the State Auditor for granting this license; objections against
it were presented by Councilor Brower, who moved the adoption of a
resolution as copied below ; and Mr. T. B. Walker and his son, Willis
J. Walker, being present, gave, at the invitation of the Council, their
arguments for the license.

By the request of the President, a vote of the Council was then
taken upon the adoption of the following resolution, which had been
presented by Councilor Brower.

Resolved, That it is the deliberate sense of the Council of the
Minnesota Historical Society that the waters and land area of Itasca
State Park should never be converted from park purposes to the use
of any private person or corporation for personal gain, and the Presi-
dent of this Society is urgently requested to refuse his consent to any
license for such private use of public property.

The vote was as follows: Ayes, Brower, Chaney, Kingsbury,
Langford, Metcalf, 5; No, Upham, W., 1. Three members who were
present when the vote was taken, namely, Hanson, Childs and San-
born, declined to vote; and two, Governor Van Sant and Councilor
Stevens, who had been present earlier, were then absent.

There being no further business, the Council adjourned/ '

Signed by the Secretary.

The record of the proceedings of the Council as above published
fails to specify that the resolution offered by Councilor Brower was
adopted, there being only one vote in the negative.

During the debate preceding the adoption of the resolution, Mr.
Thomas B. Walker made the extraordinary statement that his lumber-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 227

ing operations constituted n public business which gave him the right
to use Itasca Lake for his logging operations.

Whereas, T. B. Walker is the owner of certain land and the pine
situated thereon, in Sections 26 and 35, Township 144 N., Range 36
W.; And,

Whereas, It appears that there is no other practical means of
removing the said timber outside of the limits of Itasca State Park,
except by way of Itasca Lake and the Mississippi River ;

Now, Therefore, license is granted to the said T. B. Walker and
authority given to haul said timber so situated in said Sections 26 and
35, to Itasca Lake and deposit the same on the ice therein during the
months of December, 1903, and January and February, 1904, and to
float the same out of said lake by way of the Mississippi River at a
date not later than fifteen days from and after the melting and pass-
ing out of ice from Itasca Lake in the spring of 1904.

By the acceptance of this license the said T. B. Walker agrees
never at any time to attempt to raise the waters in Itasca Lake to a
point where the water will do damage to the park property by means
of that certain dam situated in the said Mississippi River at the outlet
of said Itasca Lake, and never at any time to close said dam or attempt
to do so during the summer season, after the ice is melted and passes
out of said lake; and in consideration of the foregoing, the said T. B.
Walker agrees that the regulations and management of the gates in
said dam shall at all times be subject to the control of the Park Com-
missioner of said Itasca State Park.

Given under our hands this 14th day of January, A. D. 1904.

S. R. VAN SANT,

Governor.
S. G. IVERSON,

State Auditor.
JOHN B. SANBORN,
President Minnesota Historical Society.

Whereas, The Crookston Lumber Company is the owner of certain
pine logs heretofore cut, or being cut, upon the SB. *4 and the E. %
of the NE. % of Section 35, and the E. y 2 of the SE. *4 of Section 34,

228 ITASCA STATE PARK.

144-36, being outside of, but immediately adjacent to, the boundary
limits of said Park ; And,

Whereas, said company has made application to the Governor,
State Auditor and President of the State Historical Society for a
license to place the said logs in Itasca Lake and to haul the same
across lands owned by the State of Minnesota, situated in Itasca State
Park, upon two certain logging roads heretofore constructed, one ex-
tending a distance of approximately twenty rods across a portion of
the SB. % of the SW. *4 of Section 35-144-36, and the other a distance
of approximately fifty rods across a portion of the SW. % of the SW.
% of said Section 35-144-36, and also extending across a portion of the
NW. 1,4 of NW, % of Section 2-143-36; also to float the same out of
said lake under such restriction as may be imposed by the said par-
ties; And,

Whereas, It appears there is no other practical means of removing
the timber owned by said company situated outside of the limits of
said park, except by way of Itasca Lake and the Mississippi River;
And,

Whereas, The said company has heretofore and will hereafter re-
frain from cutting certain pine owned by it and situated in said park,
which it is important that the state should purchase for the purpose
of preserving the park in the condition prescribed by various acts of
the legislature;

Now, Therefore, License is granted to the undersigned to use the
two logging roads above described, and authority given said company
to haul said timber so situated on said Sections 34 and 35, 144-36, over
said roads, and deposit the same upon the ice in Itasca Lake during
the months of January and February, 1904, and to float the same out
of said lake by way of the Mississippi River, at a date not later than
fifteen days from and after the melting and passing out of the ice from
Itasca Lake in the spring of 1904.

Given under our hands this 15th day of January, A. D. 1904.
; • S. R. VAN SANT,

r Governor.

S. G. IVERSON,

State Auditor.
JOHN B. SANBORN,
President Minn. State Historical Society.

The statement by the Attorney General who prepared the licenses
for signature that " Whereas, It appears there is no other practical

ITASCA STATE PARK.

229

means of removing the timber owned by said Company [or T. B.
Walker] , situated outside of the limits of said park, except by way of
Itasca Lake," is a mere subterfuge. It was fully explained at the
meeting of the Historical Society that the timber was north from
Itasca Lake and near the Mississippi, situated where it was not neces-
sary to despoil the state park in order to remove it, but Mr. T. B.
Walker desired the use of Itasca Lake for a log boom and his influence
was sufficient to secure it.

CLAY IMPRINT OF ITASCA LAKE POTSHARD.

SHOWS FABEIC APPLIANCE MADE FROM TWISTED CORDS OF BASSWOOD BARK.

As this volume closes at the date indicated at the end of the
formal introduction preceding the sub-divisional pages, Itasca Lake is
extensively withdrawn from public use by something more than 10,-
000,000 feet of boomed and floating pine logs, landed during the win-
ter of 1903-4 at various places along the East, West and North arms
of the lake by permission of the authorities who granted the licenses
to use the Itasca State Park area, and waters, without compensation
to the state for the extraordinary privilege of converting public prop-
erty to private despoilation free of charge, and exempting from
prosecution trespassers before the law who openly destroy and per-
manently damage state property at Itasca Lake, sacredly dedicated

CLAIM CABIN ON PINE LAND.

NICOLLET'S UPPER LAKE. S. 28, T. 143, R. 36, ON WHICH FIMAL PROOF WAS
OFFERED AND PAST TO PATENT FOR LUMBERINflff URPOSES.

A RELIC OF THE EARLIER AND UNNAMED SQUATTERf £,T THE SOURCE OF
THE MISSISSIPPI, 1884-1887.

ITASCA STATE PARK.

231

by statutory enactment to the exclusive use of the people who have
paid the cost of its establishment and maintenance.

It is well known that last year only about 500,000 feet of logs
could be sluiced through the dam near the outlet of Itasca Lake, at
each exhausted flush of that reservoir when it was closed and flooded
and then opened and drawn off, as the logs were driven out by lumber-

VIEW ON THE MISSISSIPPI R1VEK.

ONE MILE BELOW BEMIDJI LAKE.

jacks, for the boom company, in the employ of lumbermen.

Governor Van Sant, State Auditor Iverson, President John B.
Sanborn, and Attorney General Douglas, were each personally advised
of that fact by the author of this volume.

They each were informed that Itasca Lake would necessarily be
re-flooded many times during the season of 1904, while the labor of

CIIANEY POINT AND BA\*.

EAST ARM OF ITASCA LAKE.

ME. J. B, CHANEY IN THE FOREGROUND, 1903.

CHANEY POINT AND BAY.

EAST ARM OF ITASCA LAKE.

ONE MILE NORTH FROM THE NEW STATE BUILDING.

234

ITASCA STATE PARK.

sluicing ten million feet of logs, from the booms created at Itasca
Lake, was in process of completion, each re-flooding creating addi-
tional damage to the state park, impossible to repair without great
public expense and the lapse of a long period of time sufficient to plant
and raise another shore-line abundance of trees along Itasca Lake
to take the place of those killed by flooding in 1903, and obliterated
by the same process in 1904.

ON THE MISSISSIPPI AT KAKABIKANS RAPIDS.

A tree can be destroyed immediately. One to take its place oP
beauty and attractiveness can be planted and matured in one hun-
dred years. The policy of destroying the trees at Itasca Lake to be
re-supplied by planting seedlings at state expense is a disastrous farce,
a demoralizing factor prohibited by common sense where trees are in
variegated and abundant maturity, and a shameful disgrace in an

ITASCA STATE PARK. 235

age of humanity which requires much and receives but little recogni-
tion for its admiration and enjoyment of the beauties of an exclu-
sive and naturally perfect forest reserve at surroundings which were
originally delightful and historically inspiring.

Under official supervision and authority, with an ample park law
to protect the rights of the state, the beautiful evergreen shores ot

VIEW AT U. S. ISLAND RESERVATION AT CASS LAKE.
THE ISLAND HAS SEVERAL DIFFERING NAMES.

Itasca Lake, flooded and despoiled, are fast becoming a stench in the
nostrils of a nation and state which have directed by law that one
of its most historic and health-giving resorts "shall not perish from
the earth."

Let two overwhelming facts be ever present with those who have

FOREST SCENE AT RRGWER REDGE.

ITASCA STATE PARK.

237

aspired to the great cause of natural preservation for Itasca State
Park, as follows:

First. They have no reason to be ashamed of the burdens they
have borne in the struggle for success.

Second. They have a right to demand a legislative investigation
concerning the manner in which the state park has been despoiled,
and to fix the responsibility for whatever misconduct there may have

ON THE MISSISSIPPI BELOW ITASCA LAKE.

existed in the deplorable mismanagement of park affairs, which has
resulted in transforming Itasca Lake into a promiscuous log boom,
flooding its shores, destroying its permanent beauties, depleting its
outlet and greatly damaging its permanent value as a public resort,
converted to private uses for personal gain.

The active friends of this park movement have certain rights

historic oake;n post.

NOKTH END OF ITASCA LAKE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 239

and privileges which must necessarily be enforced in some effective
manner in a determination to insist upon some protection for the
results of their labor.

The rule of law which guarantees an outlet for environed real
property, does not carry with it any privilege whatsoever, to destroy
or damage the property of another free of cost.

TOURISTS CAMP SCENE ON BANKS PINE FOREST.

POUR MILES NORTH OF ITASCA STATE PARK.

Mr. Thomas B. Walker, the reputed owner of 1,000,000 acres of
pine land, more or less, near the end of his long career as one of the
most destructive owners of forest areas in the United States, found
influential public officials willingly active in his behalf when he
demanded the free use of Itasca Lake in his private lumbering opera-

i^iliiliiilillillilllllHHIilllilill

SiillBllilMlllliliii

^iWsi^^^^^iWi^:

FOREST VIEW AT SIORTH EKD OF MARY LAKE.

ITASOA STATE PARK, MINN.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 241

tions on the ground that he had legal rights which should be pro-
tected.

What one of those officials asked concerning the legal rights of
the state and its people?

By what rule of action has Thomas B. Walker and the Brainerd
Lumber Company been awarded the privilege to destroy state prop-
erty without compensation?

CAMP SCENE ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.

TOURISTS CANOE VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER.

When all the facts shall have been ascertained and promulgated,
establishing the responsibility for the unnecessary, wanton and exten-
sive injury to the beautiful surroundings of Itasca Lake, official titles
shall not shield the perpetrators of this indignity against the State
and the Nation !

The second edition of this volume will need an addendum, wherein

ANCIENT COPPER OBJECTS.

RECOVERED ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI BELOW ITASCA LAKE.

ITASCA STATE PARK.

243

can be recorded the progress and final result of the LUMBERMEN'S
DESTRUCTIVE ONSLAUGHT against Itasca State Park.

Its friends are full of hope and confidence that improved condi-
tions can be enforced by activities, which they feel have been unjustly
made imperative at personal disadvantage.

That hope and confidence inspires a determination that Itasca

Y ?*:•?< '-'IT* -,- V.vi.V '.V;* v,..-\ .:<

ON THE MISSISSIPPI AT KAKABIKANS RAPIDS.
TOUR OF EDWIN C. ORAMPTON'S PARTY.

Lake shall be rescued from the hands of its despoilers as a needful and
extraordinary occasion for the protection and preservation of a mag-
nificent public park.

[Copy]

CONTRACT FOR BUILDING, Made this 18th day of March,
A. D., 1904, by and between the State of Minnesota, party of the
first part, and Thomas C. Myers and Samuel S. Myers, co-partners

FOREST VIEW AT NEW STATE HOUSE.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 245

doing business under the firm name and style of Thomas C. Myers &
Son, of Park Rapids, Minnesota, parties of the second part, builder.

The said parties of the second part covenant and agree to and with
the said party of the first part to make, erect, build and finish, in a
good, substantial and workmanlike manner, a park cottage at a point
to be designated by W. B. Douglas, Attorney General, upon the NEfyi
of Section 24, Township 143, Range 36 W., in Itasca State Park, Clear-
water County, Minnesota, said cottage to be built agreeably to the
draught, plans and specifications prepared by Clarence H. Johnston,
architect, which are made a part hereof, and furnished by the said
State of Minnesota to the said parties of the second part, of good and
substantial materials provided for, and described in said specifica-
tions, on or before the 1st day of September, A. D. 1904 ; except that

OJIBWAY O-DO-DAIMUN.
CATFISH FAMILY.

the plumbing, the heating plant, as well as the grouting and cement
floor in the basement and the staining of the roof designated and pro-
vided for in said plans and specifications, are omitted from this con-
tract. It is further agreed that the parties of the second part fur-
nish all materials of the quality and kind designated in said specifica-
tions for the construction of said work, except such as by the terms
of said specifications are to be furnished and provided by the said
State of Minnesota.

The party of the first part covenants and agrees to pay to said
parties of the second part for the same, the sum of five thousand and
twenty-five dollars ($5,025.00) as follows: five hundred and fifty dol-
lars ($550) thereof when the logs to be used in the construction of said
cottage are cut and delivered upon the building site; five hundred

00^*-

>A%
*"&&&

^'^'-v.

%"■&

-.^

TYPE OF EARLY CHART.
TRACED FROM LIEUT. ALLEN'S MAP,

ITASCA STATE PARK. 247

dollars ($500) when the foundation is completed and building material
for chimneys and plaster furnished and delivered on the building
site by the contractor; the balance from time to time as the work
shall progress, on the basis of ninety per cent (90%) of the value of
such work and material, upon the written approval of the Park Com-
missioner of said Itasca State Park ; conditioned further that in case
of dispute the same shall be subject to the approval of the said archi-
tect. It is further agreed that the said building shall be completed
as aforesaid, subject to the approval of the Governor of the State of
Minnesota and the Attorney General.

IN TESTIMONY WHEREOF, The said parties have hereunto
set their hands and seals this 18th day of March, A. D. 1904. #

THE STATE OF MINNESOTA,
By: S. R. VAN SANT,

Governor and
W. B. DOUGLAS,

Attorney General.
THOMAS C. MYERS,
SAMUEL S. MYERS,
Co-partners, doing business as Thomas C. Myers & Son.
Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of
B. P. MYERS, Jr.,
FERDINAND MULLER.

[Copy]

Lake Itasca, Minn., April 20, 1904.
Mr. J. V. Brower, St. Paul, Minn.

Dear Sir: I herewith let you know that the water in Lake
Itasca is now about three feet above normal stage, one foot higher
than last spring at the time they commenced driving logs out of the
lake, and the water is still rising. All the swamps west of the lake
are from twelve to eighteen inches under water. All the lake shore
trees, and all trees in the swamps will surely die out if the water is
not let down before the frost goes out of the ground.

The gates in the dam on the Mississippi have been closed since
last fall.

The dam has been raised two feet last month, by the Brainerd
Lumber Co., so as to hold more water.

Yours very respectfully,

THEODORE WEGMANN.

THREE OJIBWAY CHIEFS OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.

(FATHER, SON AND GRANDSON.)

WAUB-O-JEEG.
WHITE CLOUD. NA-SHO-TAH.

NASHOTAH TN NOW BEST KNOWN AS REV. G. T. WRIGHT.

TOURS OF OBSERVATION.

SUB-DIVISION FOURTH.

No attempt is here made to completely describe all tours of
observation, which have taken place since 1804, at Itasca Lake. Many
of the more important visits by various and numerous parties or indi-
viduals, should be considered as historic material worthy of record
for future use. As several thousand resident and non-resident per-
sons, tourists, investigators, claim holders , explorers, surveyors,
cruisers, sportsmen, lumbermen and travelers have visited Itasca Lake,
any detailed list attempted would certainly be defective and erron-
eous, hence only limited references at present can be best perpetuated
in chronologic order.

Prehistoric. At an unknown date Dakota Indians had their bark
habitations along the north extremity of Itasca Lake. They used
scaffolds for burial ceremonies, made clay vessels, stone hammers,
flint knives and arrow points, copper implements, and fabrics, from
threaded bark. The bones of their dead were barricaded under mounds
of earth. The archaeologic history of that occupancy has been care-
fully observed and the evidences, charts and printed descriptions have
been perpetuated for the Minnesota Historical Society, and at Man-
chester, England, with the Manchester Geographical Society. By
ethnologic computation it seems reasonable to determine that the
Dakotas were at Itasca Basin before and after A. D. 1600. All
knowledge of the names they then used there seems to be lost to
history. A ceremonious and unique mound interment in ashes and
calcined bones was excavated in 1895, indicating the death of the

N E-GON-E-BE-NESS.
(LEADING FEATHER.)

SON OF FLATMOUTH, AFTER WHOM HE IS POPULARLY ADDRESSED.
HEAD CHIEF OF UPPER MISSISSIPPI OJIBWAY INDIANS.

NE-SAUK-DAH-WAKCE.

(LITTLE CLIMBING DOWN.)

TYPE OF UPPER MISSISSIPPI OJIBWAY INDIANS.

252 ITASCA STATE P&MK.

village chief whose crania plainly revealed a former superior intelli-
gence existent at Itasca Lake.

An Unrecorded Date. Ojib way Indians soon after or immediately
before 1750, took possession of the Dakota village site at Itasca
Lake, which they named Elk Lake. There are remnants of occupancy
on Schoolcraft Island, but no certain evidence has been discovered

CRAMPTON'S DESCENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

CLEARING THE CHANNEL AT KAKABIKANS RAPIDS.

fixing the habitation of any white man at that resort.

1803-4. William Morrison was at Itasca Basin according to his
written statement printed in this volume.

1811-12. He was again in that region. An old cellar on the bank
of the Mississippi, six miles down the river from Itasca Lake, is under-
stood to be the site of the house, where the fur traders, in Morrison's

ITASCA STATE PARK.

253

time, turned westward from the river to traverse the country to North
Red River. There may be a written statement, now missing, indicat-
ing a visit to Itasca Lake by David Thompson, in 1812. He was an
astronomer.

1832. Henry R. Schoolcraft and party of tourists including Rev.
W. T. Boutwell and Lieutenant James Allen, IT. S. A., reached Itasca

CRAMPTON'S CAMP ON THE MISSISSIPPI, 1902.
SEVENTEEN MILES BELOW ITASCA LAKE.

Lake, July 13th, near Mary Creek, camped on Schoolcraft Island, and
the next day went down the Mississippi in canoes to Cass Lake.

1836. J. N. Nicollet discovered Nicollet Valley, springs and lakes
at the source of the Mississippi.

1872. Julius Chambers discovered Elk Lake and Chambers Creek.

1875. Edwin S. Hall and party of IT. S. surveyors, camped at

PIECES OF ANCIENT CLAY VESSELS.
RECOVERED ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI AT AND BELOW ITASCA LAKE.

WAR CLUBHEAD, KNIFE, STEEL, PUNK AND GUNFL1NT,
RECOVERED ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI BELOW ITASCA LAKE.

256 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Hernando de Soto Lake, and near Hall Lake, while subdividing T. 143,
R. 36.

1879. Mr. A. H. Siegfried and party visited Elk Lake and Sieg-
fried Creek.

1880. Mr. 0. E. Garrison traversed the region from Hernando
de Soto Lake to Elk Lake and Garrison Point.

1881. Rev. J. A. GiMllan and party, visited Whipple, Elk and
Itasca lakes, holding religions services at Chambers Creek. The
Glazier fake was initiated two months later at the same place during
a half day sojourn in July.

1883. Peter Turnbull and party opened a wagon road through
Mary Valley to Itasca Lake. June 5th, 1884, Mary Turnbull gave
birth to Charley F. Turnbull, first white child born at that locality,
at the Turnbull cabin on Lot 1, Sec. 13, T. 143, R. 36.

1886. Mr. Hopewell Clark and party explored Nicollet Valley.

1887. Professor T. H. Kirk and party explored Itasca and Elk
lakes.

1888. J. V. Brower and two companions explored Itasca Basin.
Their names were John Leyendecker and W. A. Avery.

1889. Minnesota Historical Society survey of Itasca Basin.
Charted by J. V. Brower for the society. William McMullen settled
on a homestead at the north end of Itasca Lake. Warren Upham,
geologist, explored Mary Valley.

1890. John Leyendecker guaged water flowage for Brower Sur-
vey. Mr. Du Val F. Polk and party of hunters and tourists com-
menced their annual visits to Itasca Lake and the pine forests of
Northern Minnesota. Mr. Polk's annual tours of that region were
continued variously until 1903. Attorney General Dougias was
occasionally with Mr. Polk's party.

1891. Rev. Stanley A. McKay celebrated the privileges of bap-
tism in the waters of Itasca Lake, at the North Arm. State Park
topographic survey by Commissioner Brower. Botanic examinations
by Prof. Geo. B. Aiton. Glazier fake at Elk Lake renewed when

ITASCA STATE PARK.

257

false measurements were made for a consideration. Brook trout first
propagated in Ocano springs and creek.

1894. Rev. S. H. Hall Young and Rev. T. M. Shanafelt, D. D.,
toured the headwaters of the Mississippi, holding divine services at
Nicollet's Middle Lake. With Commissioner Brower they descended
the Misissippi to Aitkin in a rowboat. Dr. Geo. R. Metcalf and son

UN AUTHENTICATED PORTRAIT OF RADISSON.

(AFTER BECKELS WILSON.)
FIRST WHITE TRAVELER ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI, 1660.

visited Itasca Lake and made a rowboat excursion the entire distance
down the Mississippi to Aitkin. Doctors E. Copeland, H. Y. Ogden,
W. A. Batchelor and H. V. Wurdemann of Milwaukee made the river
trip in single canoes from Itasca Lake to Grand Rapids. Doctor
Elliott Coues explored Itasca Lake, Mary Valley and Nicollet lakes.
Several of the explorers mentioned made written statements of their

WILLIAM MORKISON.

ORIGINAL DISCOVERER OF ITASCA LAKE, 1804. AFTER WHOM MORRISON
LAKE WAS NAMED.

ORIGINAL DISCOVERER OF ELK LAKE, 1872, AFTER WHOM CHAMBERS
CREEK WAS NAMED.

260 ITASCA STATE PARK.

views to the park commissioner for his report as herewith republished :

Washington, D. C, Oct. 20, 1894.
Hon. J. V. Brower, Commissioner Itasca State Park, St. Paul, Minn.,

My Dear Sir : As you are already aware, I have lately returned
from Lake Itasca, which I visited in order to be able to speak from
personal observation concerning the true source of the Mississippi, in
my new edition of the expedition undertaken in 1805-6 by Zebulon M.
Pike. Allow me to bear witness to the fidelity and accuracy with
which the beautiful lake and its basin are described in your recent
report, and delineated on the accompanying maps and other illustra-
tions. I trust you will not consider me presumptuous if I venture to
offer some suggestions regarding the preservation of the natural fea-
tures of a locality so singularly interesting, whether viewed in histori-
cal perspective, in geographical situation or in scenic effect. The park
is readily accessible to tourists, in one day's wagoning from the near-
est railroad terminus, has already become widely known, and is sure
to become a resort for outings in the not distant future. Under these
circumstances, it would seem to be a matter of necessity that steps
should be taken to secure it from the otherwise inevitable vandalism
of idle excursionists, as well as from the encroachments of settlers in
the vicinity. The record of every such reservation shows the absolute
necessity for stringent regulations, rigorously enforced by law, to pre-
vent unsightly defacement of scenic effects and the destruction of
timber and game. During my recent canoe voyage to the lake, I
found the state game laws, wisely as these have been framed, of prac-
tically no effect, owing to nonenforcement ; while the lack of efficient
forestry laws, in a densely wooded country as dry as a tinder-box,
invited such a horrible disaster as that which overtook Hinckley and
other towns. In the state park, a single campfire left undrowned
might convert the whole beauty of the scene into a waste of black
desolation, from which the place could not recover in half a century.
In the great Yellowstone Park it has not been possible to prevent con-
flagrations entirely, but the stringent regulations there enforced re-
duce this danger to a minimum, and in the case of so small an area
as the Itasca park, practical immunity from fire might be secured by
measures which will be obvious to you. Regulations made to this end
might include a small reward for information which should lead to
conviction of offenders. "With regard to the killing of game in the
park, I would recommend that it be absolutely prohibited at all sea-
sons. To refer again to the Yellowstone Park, whose admirable

ITASCA STATE PARK. 261

police, enforced by the military, I have closely studied, it has been
found that wild animals speedily discover that they are safe there, and
naturally remain of their own accord where they can live and breed at
ease. With the settlement and increasing population of the country
round about Lake Itasca, large game will soon disappear without some
such refuge ; but, the quadrupeds and birds will seek any asylum from
persecution that may offer, such as the park could easily be made to
afford. I judge that the injunction should extend even to the carrying
of firearms into the park, under heavy penalty, together with a reward
to informers.

There is one other matter to which I wish to call your attention, at
the risk of wearying your patience. This is the question of roads about
the lake, and especially through the tract south of the lake which ex-
tends to the Nicollet lakes and the Mississippi springs. The most prac-
ticable way I could find from the lake to these points was far from be-
ing an easy one, along the ridge which separates the infant Mississippi
in Nicollet valley from the depression in which run certain feeders of
Elk lake. The trail there is still blind and obstructed with windfalls,
but could with very little labor and expense be made a carriage-road as
far north as Morrison hill, or even be extended thence to Rhodes hill,
with rustic bridge across Chambers creek. The two hills just said com-
mand fine views of the lake, and a way to them from the south or south-
east should certainly be opened. The long ridge itself must be in the
course of time a sort of avenue or boulevard, and the suggested im-
provement seems to me naturally demanded. I beg to add that in my
edition of Pike's Travels, already mentioned, I shall take the liberty of
calling this Brower ridge, and trust that the well-deserved compli-
ment implied in this name may be confirmed by official authority.
Meanwhile I remain, with great respect,

Very truly yours,

ELLIOTT COUES.

Cedar Falls, Iowa, Sept. 27, 1894.

Hon. J. V. Brower, Commissioner Itasca State Park,

Dear Sir : My recent trip with you to the Itasca State Park, and
thence down the Mississippi to Aitkin, was altogether delightful. But
one or two subjects, earnestly discussed by us, keep recurring to me and
* ' will not down. ' ' One is the changing of the beautiful shores of Winni-
bigoshish, and Pokegema lakes, by the flooding of the government
dams, into horrible, stinking swamps, haunted by the ghosts of murder-

REV. J. A. GILFILLAN.

FIRST CELEBRATED DIVINE WORSHIP AT MORRISON HILL, ITASCA
LAKE, MAY, 1881.

PETER AND MARY TURN BULL.

PAKENTS OF CHARLEY F. TURNBULL, FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN AT
ITASCA LAKE, JUNE 5th, 1884.

264 ITASCA STATE PARK.

ed trees. And there is before me always a sense of inpending
calamity, as of the threatened death of a friend, when I think of Sandy
lake, the most beautiful in all Minnesota, with its important historical
points, its emerald islands, its noble, bordering forests, its lovely beach-
es, so soon to be tranformed by the raising of the water into a like
scene of death and ruin.

But almost sadder than this is the ruthless and often wanton and
senseless destruction of the noble pine forests of the upper river. We
saw enough to convince us that there is much stealing of timber from
government lands and a greedy and foolish cutting away of noble for-
ests. "We saw great tracts almost denuded of trees and converted into
those " cuttings" that are only kindling heaps to start future great
forest fires. This wasteful and often dishonest chopping of the trees is
going on higher and higher up the river, and soon the timber wolves
will be snarling at your own Itasca, and their green eyes will be mark-
ing for destruction those fine belts of white and norway pine and fir
and spruce that so delighted us. Guard them well !

The idea of making a state park of Itasca basin was certainly an
inspiration, and its originator deserves to be remembered gratefully by
future generations. The tract is admirably suited to the purpose. Your
map shows most clearly the outlines of this great natural bowl, and our
rambles through it verified the map in every particular. Walking up
the dry bed of Chambers ' creek, and finding Nicollet's infant Missis-
sippi large enough to go swimming in, disposed of Glazier's ridiculous
claim, and showed him up as a fraud, after cheap glory, and his book a
"fake." Itasca Park is worthy of any state, and should be sedulously
guarded and defended. The multitude of clear little gems of lakes,
embowered in picturesque hills, Lake Itasca itself a most lovely sheet
of water, and especially the grand stretches of virgin forest, than which
I never saw finer, mark the park as a chosen corner of Nature's great
garden. To neglect this beautiful possession would argue great stupid-
ity on the part of Minnesota. The forest trees should be so protected
by law that timber cruisers would give the park a wide berth. And
such safeguards should be placed around it as to make the danger of
destruction by forest fires much less than it is now. To preserve the
game and the trees, it seems to me, the state could well afford to sur-
round the whole park with a high wire fence, and to make a sufficient
appropriation to enable the commissioner to patrol it. A tree is the
most valuable thing to man on earth, next to man himself, and the most
beautiful. Those great pines are triumphs of Nature's handiwork,

ITASCA STATE PARK. 265

miracles of design and beneficence. Let them be preserved to keep the
lakes and springs of the upper Mississippi from drying up, and to
afford the citizens of the United States a delightful resort.

You see I share your enthusiasm on this subject, and here enthu-
siasm and common-sense are at one. If the state is wise, she will speed-
ily gather up all the land within the park and never allow one of those
trees to be cut, or a single animal of the game there to be killed. May
the park ever continue the " thing of beauty' ' it is now, and so be a
4 'joy forever."

Yours, very faithfully,

S. HALL YOUNG.

Huron, S. D., Oct. 2, 1894.
Hon. J. Y. Brower, St. Paul Minn.

Dear Sir : Since my return from our vacation trip, I have thought,
a good many times, of some of the topics we discussed during the week
we spent together at Itasca lake, and on our journey of several hundred
miles down the Mississippi river. I have read, with more interest than
ever before, statements and discussions in various newspapers relating
to movements in progress, and contemplated, which will soon result in
the total destruction of the magnificent forests in northern Minnesota.

I have noticed, with deep regret, the probability that all of the
splendid bodies of pine and other timber surrounding many of your
matchless lakes, and along the shores of the grandest of American riv-
ers, must soon fall before the axe of the woodman, leaving barrenness
and desolation where now there is attractiveness and beauty.

"While it cannot be expected that in this present selfish age, which
entirely ignores sentiment for the sake of financial gain, all of these
forests can be preserved, it is certainly hoped that something may be
done to put a check upon the reckless destruction of all of Nature's
attractive resorts.

The reservoir system on the upper Mississippi has already seriously
injured, and in some places destroyed, the beauty of some of the finest
combinations of lake and forest on this continent. It is to be feared
that ere long the greed of the speculator and the avarice of the lumber-
man will finish the work of desecration and desolation.

I congratulate you, and all who appreciate beauty in the works of
Nature, in the success that attended vigorous efforts to set apart for-
ever, as a public park, a little space around the source of the Missis-
sippi river. But Itasca Park, with all its present attractions and his-

266

ITASCA STATE PARK.

torical associations, will lose its interest if that wonderful river, from
its source, is destined to flow on hereafter through a desert of stumps
and decaying tree-tops I hope that something can be done to secure
state or national legislation that will put a stop to the indiscriminate
destruction of the forests along the shores of that magnificent water-
way of the nation, and at least preserve forever some of its most at-
tractive features.

Very truly yours,

T. M. SHANAPELT.

J^ain. JL

Sources <*ftht Mississippi ® *- *<***-

W source of/JUMississh

BELTRAMI'S MAP OF DOE [ITASCA] LAKE, 1828.

Milwaukee, Wis., Dec. 8, 1894.
Mr. J. V. Brower, St. Paul, Minn.

Dear Sir: We the undersigned have heard with the greatest re-
gret that there is some talk of selling or cutting the fine timber in
the Itasca State Park. We can harly believe that any legislature or
governor would permit such a wanton outrage as this certainly would
be. Apart from the geographical interest of the park, one of its great-

ITASCA STATE PARK. 267

est attractions and its very greatest beauty lies in its superb trees
and forest scenery ; and anyone who has seen them once can only hope
that they may be preserved forever. As we drove and walked through
the park last October, we felt that the only mistake made so far was in
not originally extending the boundaries wider so as to take in more of
the timber land.

It seems to us that the State of Minnesota ought to take a very
special care of the Itasca Park, for its peculiar situation gives it an
almost national character. And it is because of the interest that we,

SCHOOLCRAFT'S MAP OF ITASCA LAKE, 1832.
(MODIFIED IN 1855 BY ADDING INLETS.)

though non-residents of the state, take in the matter, that we now
write to urge you to do everything * in your power to prevent the
threatened spoliation of the forest in Itasca State Park.

Yery truly yours,

ERNEST COPELAND,
H. Y. OGDEN,
W. A. BATCHELOR,
H. Y. WURDEMANN,

Dr. Elliott Coues was for several years one of the editors of the
Century Dictionary. Rev. S. Hall Young was for ten years a Presby-
terian missionary to Alaska. Rev. T. M. Shanafelt, D. D., has charge of
the Baptist churches of South Dakota. Dr. Ernest Copeland, Dr. H. V.

268

ITASCA STATE PARK,

Ogden, Dr. W. A. Batchelor and Dr. H. V. Wurdemann are physicians,
resident at Milwaukee, Wis.

Also, in 1894, Mr. John Moak and party of experienced deer hunt-
ers camped three miles Northwest of the outlet of Itasca Lake for a
season's hunt.

OJIBWAY INDIAN MAP OF ITASCA LAKE, 1881.

1805. Archaeologic explorations at Itasca Lake and down the
Missisippi to Cass Lake by Brower and Lewis. Many deer hunters
in parties of three or more sought camping grounds each year through-
out the Itasca Eegion. A. A. Whitney, park commissioner, assumed
official charge of the park. Mr. John Moak, deer hunter, returning

ITASCA STATE PARK. 269

with his party in November, was drowned in one of the lakes near the
head of Division Creek.

1898. J. V. Brower and one tourist made a rowboat excursion
from Itasca Lake to Deer Kiver.

1899. Hon. W. P. Christensen, Park Commissioner, assumed direc-
tion of park affairs. Hon. P. C. Deming and party toured Itasca State
Park in the interests of the state for observations concerning the pres-
ervation of the park in a state of nature. Miss Norma Deming accom-
panied her father on this tour. Governor John Lind, Attorney General
W. B. Douglas and Judge "William Mitchell made an inspection of the
park contemplating the expenditure of funds appropriated by the Dem-
ing law for park purposes. Geo. H. French, J. A. Ockerson and J. V.
Brower, for the Mississippi River Commission, completed a preliminary
exploration of the Itasca Basin and the Mississippi River from Itasca
Lake to Aitkin. The Brower-Finney timber inspection of the park
was commenced.

1900. The timber inspection was completed. Missisippi River
Commission survey of Itasca Basin under direction of Mr. A. T. Mor-
row, assisted by W. G. Comber and others was proceeded with and
completed. This survey was one of the most important ever under-
taken along the upper branches of the Mississippi. A photographic
reproduction of the chart made to represent the results of Mr. Mor-
row's survey follows after the title page and Itasca State Park Chart,
in this volume.

1901. Mr. John P. Gibbs, park commissioner, assumed direction
of the park. He entertained many visitors during the season of that
year, among whom were Mr. M. R. Conable and Mr. J. B. Chaney,
members of the Minnesota Historical Society. This was the disastrous
year when lumbering operations were commenced within the park
limits.

1902. Bonness & Co., a lumbering firm, built a logging dam near
the outlet of Itasca Lake and first flooded that body of water in viola-
tion of the terms of the park law. Mr. Edwin C. Crampton and Mr.
Clarence L. Chester, tourists, explored Itasca Basin, obtaining a large
number of original photographs, very many of which are reproduced
in this volume. They were experienced and careful photographers
who secured and contributed the largest number of perfect views ever
made of the Itasca Region, beginning on the stage road leading from
Park Rapids to Itasca Lake and ending near the outlet of Winne-
bagoshish Lake along their canoe route of passage down the Missis-

EDWIN 0. CBAMPTON & COMPANION, TOUBISTS.

VIEW SOUTH OP DEMING LAKE, ITASCA STATE PARK.

Clarence L. Chester. Edwin C. Cbampton.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 271

sippi. Mr. Crampton is the owner of the photographs which were
obtained on that tour of observation, by whose permission they were
engraved for the present work with excellent results.

1903. Itasca Lake was given over to lumbering operations with
disastrous effects against the shore line of Itasca Lake and the public
property of the state. A permanent logging dam wa,s constructed,
Hooding both Elk and Itasca lakes, to facilitate the private enter-
prises of lumbermen, participated in by a member of the family of
Park Commissioner Gibbs. After his death his daughter Mary H.
Gibbs acted as commissioner. She was enjoined from performing a
portion of her official acts. Messrs. P. C. Deming and J. V. Brower
made a tour of observation to examine the various localities occupied
for lumbering facilities. Mr. J. B. Chaney made a tour of the state
park soon after Mr. C. E. Bullard, the newly appointed park commis-
sioner, assumed official direction of park affairs.

1904. Itasca State Park was given over to lumbering operations.
The logging dam was increased in height. About 10,000,000 feet of
logs were landed in Itasca Lake. Attorney General Douglas visited
the scenes of logging operations at the park in the month of March,
contracting also for the construction of the new state house. Thomas
C. Myers & Son, contractors, commenced the construction of the new
state house near the mouth of Mary Creek with green, newly cut, and
unseasoned timber.

Practically all of the citizens of Park Rapids, Minnesota, the thriv-
ing town which has been the nearest railroad depot to the state park,
have on one or more occasions visited Itasca Lake. It is an impossibil-
ity to here describe those numerous voyages by a people who have ever
stood ready to encourage and advance the interests of the state insti-
tution which has by its attractiveness and historic interest, brought
thousands of tourists and travellers to Park Rapids on their way to
the Source of the Mississippi.

Like all towns in a new country, Park Rapids has been given over
largely to business enterprises. It is time for the people of that town
to protest against the destruction now threatening Itasca Lake.

NOMENCLATURE.

The origin of names for any locality has become much more attrac-
tive to geographic students than occasion offered during medieval
period, in the world's history.

For the Itasca Region much attention was bestowed upon proper

272 ITASCA STATE PARK.

names for the Minnesota Historical Society, in its volume VII, pub-
lished in 1893.

From that record the following extracts are republished:

THE NAME "ITASCA/ '

The Lac La Biche was already known to exist, and Mr. School-
craft was determined to reach it, carrying out his other objects of

BISHOP BRECK AND EN-ME-GOW-BOW, 1852.

(CONVERTING AN OJIBWAY INDIAN.)

ELK LAKE WAS CALLED BRECK LAKE, BY GILFILLAN, 1852.

observation while en route by canoe voyage through Lake Superior.
Messrs. Schoolcraft and Boutwell were personal associates, voyaging
in the same canoe through Superior, and while conversing on their
travels along the south shore of the great lake, the name "Itasca" was

ITASCA STATE PARK. 273

selected in the following manner, in advance of its discovery by School-
craft's party.

Mr. Schoolcraft, having uppermost in his mind the source of the
river, expecting and determined to reach it, suddenly turned and asked
Mr. Boutwell for the Greek and Latin definition of the headwaters or
true source of a river. Mr. Boutwell, after much thought, could not
rally his memory of Greek sufficiently to designate the phrase, but in
Latin selected the strongest and most pointed expressions, " Veritas, "
and " Caput/'— Truth, Head. This was written on a slip of paper, and
Mr. Schoolcraft struck out the first and last three letters, and an-
nounced to Mr. Boutwell that "Itasca shall be the name."

As the information was secured direct from Mr. Boutwell in per-
son, at his home near Stillwater, Minn., all questions concerning this
unique name are forever settled.

TRADITIONARY AND GEOGRAPHIC NAMES.

The Mississippi river has been known by numerous designations.
Prior to Soto's expedition, the savage tribes applied names to their re-
spective possessions along its banks. From the Cortes map we have
Espiritu Saneto— a name now found to be not applicable to the Missis-
sippi, for Cortes never saw or named the river, and in nomenelatural
construction, this name is, improperly applied to the Mississippi.

Of the numerous names of record, which have been applied to the
river, the following are noted. The list, however, is by no means ex-
haustive.

Meehe Sebe— The original Algonquin designation.

Chueagua— An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.

Tamaliseu— An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.

Tapatu— An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.

Mico— An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.

Rio Grande— A Spanish designation, noted by Soto's expedition.

"The River"— A Spanish designation, noted by Soto's expedition.

Palisado— A Spanish designation, from floating trees seen near its
mouth, giving the appearance of a palisade.

Escondido— A Spanish designation; hidden from sight by the in-
numerable passes, cut offs, bayous, etc., at and above its mouth, making
it difficult to discover the main channel.

St. Louis — A French designation.

Conception— A French designation, by Marquette.

274

ITASCA STATE PARK.

Buade— So called by Joliet after the family name of Gov. Fron-
tenac.

Colbert— After Jean Baptist Colbert, an eminent French states-
man.

Mischipi— Nicolas Freytas' visit to the Quivira tribes, 1661.

Messipi— Father Allouez, in Relation of 1667.

Meschasipi— Hennepin map of 1697.

Michi Sepe— Labal's version.

OJIRWAY CHIEF FLATMOUTH, 1855.
HE SIGNED THE TREATY RELINQUISHING ITASCA LAKE.

Misisipi— Labatt's version.

Missisipi— Marquette's version.

Mississipi— A later French version.

Mississippi— American version of 19th century.

Schoolcraft and Boutwell in the manner heretofore mentioned
coined the final name for Itasca. However, an interesting incident
might well be related : The first words given by Mr. Boutwell, it will
be remembered, were Yerum (true), Caput (head), but substituted the

ITASCA STATE PARK. 275

stronger word, Veritas, (truth). Had the first suggestion been fol-
lowed, that of Vernum-caput— "Rumca" would to-day be the name,
and the word " Itasca' ' unknown.

THE BROWER COMPILATION.

The names at the Itasca Basin after whom, and by whom sug-
gested, are as follows :

Omoskos Sogiagon— The Ojibway name. By aboriginal tribes.

Lac La Biche — The French translation, by the French traders.

Elk Lake— The English translation, after Morrison's time.

Itasca Lake— Schoolcraft and Boutwell, from Veritas Caput, in
1832.

The Infant Mississippi— Named by J. N. Nicollet, in 1836.

Nicollet's Lower Lake— The Commissioner's Report, after J. N.
Nicollet.

Nicollet's Middle Lake— The Commissioner's Report, after J. N.
Nicollet.

Nicollet's Upper Lake— The Commissioner's Report, after J. N.
Nicollet.

North, East and West arm of Itasca Lake— The Commissioner's
Report.

Bear Point— Named by Peter Turnbull, first resident.

Turnbull Point— The Commissioner's Report, after Peter Turnbull.

Floating Bog Bay— J. V. Brower's party of 1888.

Ozawindib Point— The Commissioner's Report. After Schoolcraft's
guide.

Garrison's Point— The Commissioner's Report. After 0. E. Gar-
rison.

Rhodes Hill— The Commissioner's Report. After Prof. Rhodes,,
photographer of the expedition.

Island Creek— The Commissioner's Report. Opposite Schoolcraft
Island.

Mary Creek— Named by Peter Turnbull. After Mrs. Mary Turn-
bull.

Chambers Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Julius Cham-
bers.

Boutwell Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Rev. W. T.
Boutwell.

Mary Valley— The Commissioner's Report. After Mrs. Mary
Turnbull.

276 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Nicollet Valley— The Commissioner's Report. After J. N. Nicol-
let.

The Greater Ultimate Reservoir Bowl— The Commissioner's Re-
port. The most remote and elevated water-shed in the Mississippi Riv-
er Basin, where the river takes its rise, at the Greater Ultimate Reser-
voir.

The Lesser Ultimate Reservoir Bowl— The Commissioner's Report.
At Mary Valley, where exists the Lesser Ultimate Reservoir of the
Mississippi River Basin.

The Midway Reservoir— The Commissioner's Report. At Clarke
Lake and its neighboring waters.

Crescent Springs — The Commissioner's Report. Crescent shaped
at the summit of a hill, gradually formed by artesian pressure.

Elk Springs— The Commissioner's Report. At the east shore of
Elk Lake.

Elk Creek— The Commissioner's Report. At S. W. angle of Elk
Lake.

Elk Pool— The Commissioner's Report. In the dense forest.

Elk Lake— Named by Gen. James H. Baker, in 1876.

Clarke Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Hopewell
Clarke.

Clarke Pool— At Clarke Creek.

/Chambers Bay— Commissioner's Report. After Julius Chambers.
, Siegfried Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After A. H. Sieg-
fried.

Demaray Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Mrs. Georgi-
ana Demaray, surviving daughter of William Morrison.

Howard Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Mrs. Jane S.
Howard, surviving daughter of H. R. Schoolcraft.

The Mississippi Springs— The Commissioner's Report. At the
geographical center of the Greater Ultimate Reservoir.

Mary Lake — Named by Peter Turnbull. After Mrs. Mary Turn-
bull.

The Twin Lakes— The Commissioner's Report. Suggested by the
appearance of united waters.

Danger Lake— Named by Peter Turnbull, from infiltration and
percolation of waters from above, flooding the ice surface in winter at
its south shore. Recently changed to Deming Lake, in honor of Portius
C. Deming, author of the Deming law.

Ako Lake— Named by Hon. I. V. D. Heard. After Hennepin's
companion Accault.

ITASCA STATE PARK. 277

Josephine Lake— J. V. Brower 's 1888 Examination. After
Josephine V. Brower.

Sibilant Lake— The Commissioner's Report. The lake is the form
of the letter S.

Clarke Lake— Named by Mr. A. J. Hill. After Hopewell Clarke.

Little Elk Lake— The Commissioner's Report.

Hall Lake— The Commissioner's Report. After Edwin S. Hall.

Groseilliers Lake and Radisson Lake— The Commissioner's Report.
After Des Groseillier and Radisson, discoverers of the Upper Missis-
sippi River,— 1660.

Floating Moss Lake— The Commissioner's Report. From its float-
ing moss bed on the surface of the water.

Whipple Lake — Named by Rev. J. A. Gilfillan. After Bishop H.
B. Whipple, of the Episcopal Diocese of Minnesota.

The Triplet Lakes— The Commissioner's Report. Three small lake-
lets closely identified with Morrison and Whipple lakes.

Morrison Lake— The Commissioner's Report. After William Mor-
rison.

Morrison Hill— The Commissioner's Report. After William Mor-
rison.

Lake Hernando de Soto— The Commissioner's Report. In honor of
the discoverer of the Mississippi River, 1541.

Brower Island— Named by Capt. R. Blakely, Mr. Charles D. Elf ell
and Hon. I. V. D. Heard, acting as a committee. After J. Y. Brower,
author of the Commissioner's Report.

Lyendecker Lake— The Commissioner's Report. After John Ly-
endecker.

Mikenna Lake— Named by Mr. A. J. Hill. After the road along
its shore.

Allen Lake— The Commissioner's Report. After Lieut. James
Allen.

The Pickard du Gay Lakes— Named by Hon. I. V. D. Heard. After
one of Hennepin's companions.

The Itasca Basin— So called by common acceptation, as applied to
the territory constituting the utmost limit of the main basin.

Gay-gwed-osay Creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Nicol-
let's Ojibway guide. "Trying~to~walk."

Ocano Springs — The Commissioner's Report. The head springs
of Ocano creek. The word is found in Schoolcraft's Narrative.

Spring Ridge— The Commissioner's Report. A ridge thrown up
by water pressure* with numerous springs at the summit.

278 ITASCA STATE PARK.

Spring Ridge Greek— The Commissioner's Report. A small creek
flowing into Nicollet's Lower Lake from Spring Ridge.

Gilfillan Lake— The Commissioner's Report. After Rev. J. A. Gil-
fillan, who celebrated the first known religious service at Itasca Lake
in 1881, from "Then had thy peace been as a river."

McKay Lake—The Commissioner's Report. After Rev. Stanley A.
McKay, who celebrated the first known baptismal rites in the waters at
the north end of Itasca Lake, 1891.

Division Creek— The Creek coming into the Mississippi, north of
Itasca lake, from the heights, which divide the waters flowing to Hud-
son's Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.

Frazier Lake— At Prazier's claim cabin. The waters of this lake
flow to The Little Mantrap Lake.

Niemada Lake— Formerly a northern limit of The Little Mantrap
Lake. The name is composite in form, not of Indian origin.

The Hall Road— First opened for the Government survey, by Ed-
win S. Hall, 1875.
• The Turnbull Road— Opened by the first resident, 1882.

The Itasca State Park— Name established by law.

The foregoing list, taken from Volume YII of the Historical Col-
lections, is somewhat modified in form.

CHANGES AND NEW NAMES.

Some of the most important additions to the list of names at the
park are as follows :

Deming Lake, after Portius C. Deming.

Lind Saddle Trail, after Gov. John Lind.

Chaney Point and Bay, after Josiah B. Chaney.

O'Neil Point, after Hon. John H. O'Neil.

Comber Point and Bay, after Mr. W. G. Comber.

Ray's Point and Bay, after Mr. P. G. Ray.

French Creek, after Mr. George H. French.

Morrow Heights, after Mr. A. T. Morrow.

First Base Point, after first base, U. S. survey, 1900.

Bohall Lake, after Henry Bohall, an assistant on the Brower sur-
vey of 1889.

Hubbard Ravine, after Hubbard county, by the Mississippi River
Commission Survey, 1900.

Lashbrook Lake, after Mr. J. J. Lashbrook.

Hays Lake, after Mr. E. Hays, assistant surveyor, 1891.

ITASCA STATE PARK.

279

Iron Corner Lake, after iron corner monument placed at N. E.
corner of Becker county.

Budd Lake, after an Ohio family name.

Aiton Heights, after Prof. Geo. B. Aiton, 1891.

Ockerson Heights, after Mr. J. A. Ockerson.

Comber Island, after Mr. W. G. Comber.

Hill Point, after Mr. Alfred J. Hill.

State Park House—First state building erected, 1895.

Itasca Park Lodge — Second state building erected, 1904.

Brower Ridge— Named by Dr. Elliott Coues.

Powder Horn Lake, Augusta Lake, Green Lake, and various base
platforms erected by the Mississippi River Commission, each extended
on the government chart of 1900, were names applied by the authori-
ties of that commission.

Camp Brower is a name applied to a beautiful camping ground
by Mr. Edwin C. Crampton in 1902, at Mary Creek.

There are several obsolete designations which have not survived,
some of which were scientifically applied by Dr. Coues in 1894.

The name McMullen Lake, in honor of "William MeMullen has been
supplanted on the government chart of 1900 by "Squaw Lake," more
than a tenth time for that name on various lakes in the Northwest.

OJIBWAY BARK CANOE, 1895.
IN CONTINUOUS USE ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI.

SCHUTTE BLOCK FIRE, DEC. 19, 1896.
IN ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA.

IN THAT CONFLAGRATION ALL THE FIELD BOOKS AND FIELD NOTES OF THE
1889 SURVEY OF ITASCA BASIN WERE DESTROYED.

INDEX.

Passim m this volume are practical!* all the names at Itasea State
Park which are conveniently summarized if rom pages 271 to 279, like-
wise United States, Minnesota, Mississippi River, Minnesota Historical
Society, Saint Paul and many lakes, making it advisable to omit the
same from this index to prevent an unnecessary burden to the record
by repeating voluminous page numbers.

Park Commissioner's Reports.

Brower, J. V., 1st, 1892, pp. 92 to 103 ; 2nd, 108 to 119 ; 3rd, 129 to
143.

Whitney, A. A., pp. 147 to 149.

Christensen, W. P., pp. 162 to 173.

Gibbs, John P., 1st, pp. 192 to 195, 2nd, 198 to 200.

Reprinted laws, pp. 58 to 71, both inclusive, maintaining chrono-
logic presentation from 1891 to 1903, in their order of passage.

Abbott, S. J 125 Babcock, Dr. L. W 157,182

Accault, Michael 44, 261, 276 Baker, Gen. J. H 72, 82, 276

Adirondack 77 Batchelor, Dr. W. A 257,267, 268

Aiton, Prof. G. B 256,279 Baton Rouge 35, 36

Allen, Lieut. James 48,82,246,253 Beltrami, 174, 195, 200, 26f

Amichel 35,36 Bemidji, 72,132,141,188

Amilcou, meaning Amichel 36 Bennett, B. S 202

Anoka 44 Berkey, Capt. Peter 115

Art Engraving Co XII., XXXI. Bixby, Tarns 89

Assiniboine River 45 Blakeley, Capt. R 277

Astor, J. J 47 Booms, 222

Auguelle, Anthony 44 Board of Game and Fish Commissioners,. 147

Avery, W. A 74,256 Bohall, Henry 278

282

INDEX.

Bonness & Co., 190^105, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200
201, 208, 209, 269

Bonness, F. W 195

Boutwell, Rev. W. T.XVI., 48, 253, 272, 273, 275

Bradford Club XXXII.

Brainerd 53, 195

Brainerd Lumber Co... 155, 159, 187, 221, 241, 247

Brazil •• 33

Breck, Bishop J. L 272

Brower, Ripley B XXVI., 151

Brower, Josephine V 277

Brown, F. P 90

Bullard, C. E XXI., 188, 219, 271

Burlington 44

Cambridge 34

Campbell, Henry Colon 38

Cass Lake 45, 72, 146, 235, 253

Castle, J. N 91.111

Chambers, Julius,

48, 72, 73, 101, 253, 259, 275, 276
Chaney, J. B.XIX, 194, 225, 226, 232, 269, 271, 278

Chester, Clarence L 165, 269, 270

Childs, H. W 226

Chouart, Medard 38,43,44,277

Christensen, W. P. ...... .153, 161, 173, 188, 269

Clarke, Hopewell 74, 101, 256, 277

Clearwater Co XXXI., 210, 245

Cleveland, Pres. G 122

Clough, Gov. D. M 145, 147, 149

Comber, W. G 162, 269, 278, 279

Conable, M. R 269

Contract for building 243

Cooper, John 145

Copeland, Dr. E 257, 267

Coues, Dr. Elliott 267, 261, 267, 279

Crampton, Edwin C, XIX., 84, 165, 252,

253, 269, 270, 271, 279

Crandall, C. S 87,125,126,127

Crevecouer Fort 44

Critical period XVIII, 185

Crookston Lumber Co 227

Crow Wing 46, 47

Dakotas 38

Dam, a logging chute 223

Dayton's Bluff 44

Deer River 269

Demaray, Georgiana 276

Deming, Miss Norma 269

Deming, Portius C, a legislator, XXVII,
134, 151, 152, 153, 155, 182, 185, 187, 202, 203,

206, 209, 269, 271, 276, 278

Division Cr 52, 53, 269

Doe Lake 266

Donnelly, Ignatius 125

Douglas, Attorney Gen., W. B., XXI,
XXIII, XXX, 159, 176, 177, 178, 185, 186,
187, 188, 189, 191, 192, 195, 196, 202, 203,
205, 219, 220, 221, 228, 231, 245, 247, 256,

269, 271
Dunn, R. C 195, 196

Elfelt, Charles D 83, 85, 86, 115, 277

En-me-gow-bow 272

Elvas, gentleman of 36

Fairchild, H. S 225

Finney, T. S 159, 176, 177, 178, 186,269

Fiske, Mr. John 38, 34

Flandreau, C. E 85

Flatmouth 274

Fleming, W. A 125

Florida 35

Foley, T. R 88, 89

Forked River £8

Formative Period XVIII, 121

Fort Pillager 57

Fort Snelling 77

Fort William 46

French, Geo. H 162, 269, 278

Freytas, Father N 43, 44

Fuller, W. M 145

Furlong, J. J 125

Garay 35

Garrison, O. E 72,101,256,275

Geist, Emil 80,81, 83

Gibbs, David 208

Gibbs, John P., 187, 188, 195, 200, 201, 207,

208, 269, 271

Gibbs log landing 209

Gibbs lumber camp 208

Gibbs, Mary H., 184, 188, 207, 210, 211, 212,

216, 217, 218, 219, 271

Gilfillan, Rev. J. A 101, 256, 262, 277, 278

Gorman, P. B 125

Grand Portage 46

Grand Rapids 257

Greater New York 127

Great Northern Hotel XXIX

Greer, A. J 125

Hall, Edwin S 48, 72, 101, 253, 277,278

Hanson, Peter E 226

Hayes, E 278

Heard, I. V. D 85,276

Hennepin, Louis 44, 276

Hill, Alfred J 76,77,277,279

Hohe war 57

INDEX.

283

Hompe, John B 125

Howard, Jane S 276

Howe, J. J 195

Hubbard county, XXIX, 132, 141, 147, 161,

172, 192, 278
Hudson Bay 51, 52

Iberville 36

Illinois River 44

Indian names 136

Iowa 44

Itasca Park Lodge XXIX, XXXI

Iverson, S. G 225, 227, 228,231

Jacobson, J. F 144,145,151,182

Jay. W. M 201

Johnson, Clarence H 245

Jones, John D 151,155

Joliet, Louis 44

Kakabikans Rapids, XIX, 52, 77, 83, 234,

243, 252

Kakabikansing 57

Kansa 34

Kathio 57

Kingsbury, David L 225,226

Kirk, T. H 256

Knife Sioux Trail 38

Lake City 190

Lamborn, Charles B Ill

Langford, N. P 225,2116

La Salle, Sieur de 44

Laws, 58 to /l

Lashbrook, J. J 278

Lee, William E 39,41,42,145

Leech Lake 46, 72

Le Sueur, Pierre 44, 45

Levassuer, Prof E 76

Leyendecker, John 74, 256, 277

Licenses to boom logs 221,227,228

Lind, Gov. John, 151, 153, 155, 156, 159, 161,

162, 163, 171, 185, 187, 188, 269, 278
Lind Saddle Trail, 154, 157, 158, 159, 160,

161, 163

List of names 273-279

Little Mantrap, Greater and Lesser, two
lakes, one N. E. from Park Rapids and
one Northwesterly. Lesser Mantrap Lake
is partly in the S E corner of the park.
They were named after local peculiari-
ties 129

Little Falls 53

Louisiana 36

Manchester Geographical Society 76, 249

Mandan 45

Mantrap, two lakes, one at park 53,83,129

Maps. Itasca Mounds X

Itasca State Park XIII

Miss. Riv. Com. Chart XV

Section of Miss. Riv 37

First chart of park 84

Chart of source 98

State park diagram 120

Lieut. Allen's chart 246

Beltrami's map 266

Schoolcraft's map 267

Ojibway Indian map 268

Markham, J. M 126

Martin, James 219

Marquette, Father J 44

McGill-Warner Co XII

McHale, James 125

McKay, Rev S. A '250, 278

McMullen, Benj 220

McMullen, William, 53, 77, 78, 117, 129, 139,

256, 279

McMullen Lake 52

Medieval Period 271

Merriam, Gov. W. R., 87, 89, 90, 91, 92,

108, 121, 141

Metcalf, Dr. Geo. R 226, 257

Metcalf, George 257

Michilimackinac 46

Mille Lac 38,44,54,57, 72

Milwaukee 257

Minneapolis 79

Minnesota River 44

Mischipi 44

Mississippi River Commission XVIII

Mississippi — Schoolcraft Boom Co, 210, 216,

220

Missouri River 45

Mitchell, William 185, 188, 269

Moak, John 268

Mobile Bay 35,36, 40

Moore, Clarence B 35

Moore, E. J 125

Moran, a sheriff 132

Morris, Gouverneur 34

Morrison, Allan 45, 46

Morrison, William, 45, 46, 48, 101, 252, 258,

276, 277

Morrow, A. T 161, 162, 269,278

Moscoso, Luys 36, 43

Mounds, chart of X

Myers, S. S 243, 247

Myers, T. C 243,247,271

284

INDEX.

Naiwa Lake 72, 132

Names, Many, list of, 271, 275, 276, 277,

278, 279

Narvaez, Panfilo de 34, 40

Na-sho-tah 248

Ne-gon-e-be-ness 250

Nelson, Governor Knute, XIV, XXI, 129,

141, 143, 147

Ne-saun-dah-wance 251

New Amsterdam 127

New names at Itasca State Park, list of... 278

Niagara Falls 79

Nicollet, J. N., 48, 82, 97, 101, 253, 275,

276, 277

Nomenclature 271, 273, 275, 279

Northwest Co 45

Oakes, Thos. F 105, 111

Ockerson, J. A 269, 279

Ogden, Dr. H. V 257,267,268

O'Leary, Timothy 193

O'Neil, J. H., XXVIII, XXIX, 155, 182, 278

Ottawa 45

Oxford 43

O-za-win-dib 48

Pacaha 36

Paris 44

Park Rapids, XXIX, 73, 141, 159, 172, 182,

192, 245, 271

Patrick, Capt. Mason M.. . . 162

Pembina River 45

Penalosa, Governor 43, 44

Pepin 38, 43, 103

Perfective Period XVIII, 125

Pike, Gen. Z. M 46,260

Pillagers 46

Pillsbury, Charles A 105

Pillsbury, John S 105, 115, 131, 188, 189

Pine county * 88

Pine River 57

Pineda, de Alonzo Alvarez 35,36,38, 40

Polk, Du Val F 256

Pokegama Lake 261

Ponchartrain Lake 86

Portugal 33

Prairie du Chien 47

Prairie Island 38, 43

Quizquiz 36, 43

Radisson, Pierre Esprit, discoverer of the
area of Minnesota at headwaters of St.
Croix River and at Mille Lac, A. D.
1660 88, 48, 44, 257, 277

Rainy Lake River 47

Ramsey, Alexander 91, 113, 156, 221

Ramsey pine 156, 157

Ray, F. G 162, 278

Red Cedar Lake 46

Red River 45

Red Lake River 45

Red Wing 38

Rhodes, D. C 275

Rumca 275

Rum River 44

Saganaga Lake 82

Saint Anthony Falls 44, 45

Sanborn, John B., 86, 87, 88, 115, 126, 221,

225, 226, 227, 228, 231

Sand Lake River 45

Sandy Lake. 45

Sauntry, William 105

Schoolcraft, H. R., XVI, 46, 48, 75, 82,

101, 253, 267, 272, 273, 275

Scofield, J. L 125

Sibley, H. H 75

Siegfried, A. H 72, 256, 276

Shanafelt, Rev. T. M 257,266,267

Shevlin, T. H 203

Shol and Morrissey XII

Smith, John Day 125, 126

Somerbr, C. W 219

Soto, Hernando de, XXXII, 33, 35, 36, 43,

44, 277

Spain 40

Spirit Lake 38

Spooner, M A 188, 207, 210, 212, 218

Staples, C. F 144, 145, 151

Stevens, H. F 226

Stony Ridge 73

Suite, Benjamin 38

Superior 38, 45

Tascodiac Lake 72

Thompson, David 45, 253

Traditionary and geographic names 273

Transvaal 127

Turnbull, Charley F 256, 263

Turnbull, Mary 263,275, 276

Turnbull, Peter 73,263,275,276

Turrell O. B 126

Turtle Lake 45

Turtle River 45

Underwood, J. M 190

Upham Lake 52

Upham, Warren 225,226, 256

INDEX.

285

Vaca, Nunez C. de 40

Varnhagen, Count F. A. de 33

Van Sant, Governor S. R., XIX, XXI,
XXIII, 187, 192, 195, 196, 198, 207, 225,

226, 227, 228, 231, 247
Vespucius, Americus 33, 34, 38, 40

Walker, Thomas B., 105, 115, 131, 208, 220,

225, 226, 227, 229, 239, 241

Walker, W. J 226

Washington, George 34

Waub-o-jeeg 248

Wegmann, Theodore 54, 138, 139, 216, 247

Weyerhauser, F 105, 113, 115, 131, 203

Weyl, C. G 55

Wheelock, Joseph A 80

Whipple, Bishop H. B 277

White Cloud 248

Whitney, A. A 145, 147, 149, 155, 171, 268

Wild Rice River 51

Williams, J. Fletcher 75, 76

Winchell Lake 52

Winchell, Newton H 52,80, 81

Winnebagoshish Dam 71

Winnebagoshish Lake XIX, 261

Wisconsin River 44

Wood, E. B 201,202

Wright, Rev. C. T 248

Wurdeman, Dr. H. V 257,267,268

Wyman, J. T 127

Yellowstone 77

Young, Rev. S. Hall 257, 265,267

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